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PinoyPiper

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Everything posted by PinoyPiper

  1. cool! I was thinking the same for my wife as well, she's only 5'2" so plenty of room for her. will follow your lead and do the same for my 17 in a year or so. will you be posting details of this on your website as well?
  2. nice looking dodger! my boat is not with me to do measurements, what's the the space between the seat and the "ceiling"? is there room to sit under there?
  3. Galvanic corrosion?... someone told me once that CF and some metals shouldn't come in contact with each other particularly in a marine environment. the mast coming into contact with the steel track should be okay, as the resin acts as a barrier. but if you tap metal screws into that cf mast, that might be a different story. just saying you might want to look into it... it could be nothing.
  4. ah... how does one go about attaching a metal track to carbon fiber mast? how do you keep them from touching?
  5. interesting... what kind of track did you get?
  6. some forums have upload quotas, it could be that you've reached yours. I'm also an admin of another boating forum and when this happens to a user a just upgrade their quota. if this is not possible on this forum, maybe you can use a third party photo hosting website, like picasa, imageshack, or photobucket.
  7. here's a shortcut
  8. was wondering the same. I know you do that with some kayaks, but that's because the plywood is only 3mm thick.
  9. 1. I put my hatches on the sides not the tops, used a 5" hatches, also used 5mm ply for the sides and 9mm for the sea tops, (yes our plywood here is undersized) 2. taping the seams of the seats work for me. I forgot to tape the aft end of the seats on my cs17 and it was only filleted on there and that seam cracked after a couple of outings. 3. what you said... 4. by clear you mean epoxy yeah? two coats, then fairing compound.
  10. make a hole through the sprit, run a line through it and put a stopper knot. if your plans came with a CD, there's a picture of it in the CS15 folder
  11. a dodger and a bimini would be nice
  12. after several outings on my CS-17, i've had to take the rudder home for repairs twice. The first time was when a stress crack developed at the base of the rudder cheeks below the lower pintle. fixed that by splitting the cheeks a bit where the crack was and injecting epoxy into the crack and putting a bolt as low as I can on rudder cheeks to prevent it from happening again. the second time was when the downhaul line split the rudder a good three inches when it grounded and the auto release cleat failed to work. epoxy saved the day again with that one. drilled a bigger hole for the rudder downhaul line and filled it with epoxy and re-drilled through the epoxy essentially making an epoxy bush.
  13. There is none on the 9. This makes a nice smooth bilge which is easy to bail and clean. I am sure Graham figured it didn't need one for strength. I know mine suffers nothing for lack of it. ah... mine is the nesting version, no need for keel batten on those I suppose
  14. If you don't drag your dinghy onto beaches like I do, I don't see why you need a skeg. I also wondered why centerboards are offset in all B&B designs. Than I asked why not? the CLR on hobie cats are not in the middle either. so position doesn't really matter... especially on small boats is there a keel batten on the S12? I don't remember one on the S11
  15. Did you get the pintles from B&B? you'd need to open up the lower pintle a good deal to get it to fit. fit the bottom one first then align the top one with the bottom
  16. Thanks Mike, we're not related, I just took them along for a ride since they looked bored watching from the sidelines the younger one was a little on the skinny side and started getting the chills when the spray and wind hit her. so I just told her to sit on the sole while we were going upwind.
  17. took CS17 #224 racing this weekend at the Round Taal Volcano Regatta. winds were pretty hairy on the first day. blowing 16 kts. gusting 25. She behaved exactly as everyone has described; fast, comfortable, safe and wet... on the long reaching leg towards volcano Island we were going so fast spray was flying half way up the mast. we didn't have a gps on board but I know we were doing at least 12 kts, based on what we experienced during the shakedown sail last month. we finished 2nd in the race in the PY class. this was the boat that came in first: A Mike Waters' designed W17 trimaran The the weather the next day made for some relaxed racing (5 to 7 kts), my heavier crew had to leave, so I took on some light weight "passengers". The tri sat out racing this time, and we took line honors in 3 out of 4 races, but we still came in second after corrected time to a Bateau Corsair 13 with more experienced crew. all in all it was an awesome weekend. Thanks goes out to Graham for designing such a great boat, and the guys on this forum who inspired me to finish this project.
  18. I can help you... I'm from Manila too and i've built an s11n 6 years ago I don't think B&B takes paypal but you can pay with your credit card as i've done with my previous orders. I suggest logging in to http://www.pinoyboats.org/forum/. Loads of "localized" info there for you.
  19. The handling was pretty much the same at 12 knots and 7 knots... it was just faster ... that or we were having too much fun to have paid any attention
  20. rigged and ready to go... when she was left like this... waves washed pebbles into the cb case and prevented the cb deploying... had to go back and clear them before we could get out again... I might need to put a flap there... as I'll be beaching her very often. showing off her lines Maligno101 on the helm... there was a typhoon up north and it made for some interesting sailing... the gps maxed out at 12.3 kts.
  21. will be launching my cs 17 tomorrow. can anyone tell me how long the main and mizzen sheets should be. I'll be buying some lines tomorrow. cheers/roy
  22. there you go... Thanks Peter.... i'll just let the masts rotate then... Initially, i'll just be racing... i'll figure out a way of fixing them that can be turned on or off in the future... I'm thinking of maybe just a barrel bolt of some sorts....
  23. Okay now I'm confused... Graham mentioned this in the spar plan for sail track: I actually forgot to do this bit. I can still do it with the mizzen mast, but not with the main as the deck and mast tube are obviously in the way. I'm actually thinking now of alternate ways of fixing the position of the mast. so do the masts rotate freely or not? My masts have tracks btw.
  24. I think I found a picture of one on Wes' page. I just need to confirm it.
  25. on the CS17 rigging plan, it doesn't really show how the mizzen snotter is rigged. does it cleat on to the sprit as shown on the diagram for the main snotter? or is does it simply cleat on to the mast? or am I missing something? I can't find it on the pictures on the CD either. i've never rigged a snotter before... how have you guys done it? also attached is a pic of the main snotter, not sure if the block attached to the mast is the right one, but this is what Carla sent. The main snotter leads to a block on the deck then to a bullseye which leads to a cleat on the side deck. that bit I got.. I've only gotten as far as rigging up the main, there's a tree in the way of the mizzen mast, so I have to wait until the trailer is done so I can wheel the boat out from under the tree.
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