Kidd

Also when making the holes for the grommets, sew around the circumference of the holes to reinforce them before setting the grommets.

with my CS17 I reinforced the fiberglass butterfly connections with small pieces of plywood screwed over the fiberglass to relieve stress on that joint until the filleting is done. I know other people have done this. when the filleting is done remove the screws and fill the holes. I also used 16 gauge wire to tie the pieces together. Even with that some places were quite a chore to get together.

I don't know about the design you are building, but my dad built an 18 ft. "cabin cruiser" when I was a kid. It was powered by a 25 horse elgin short shaft motor. The transom was too high so he had an engine mount built on the transom to hang the motor on. The turning radius was not as tight as if the motor were hung on the transom but other than that it performed well.

I used Raka on my CS 17. I have also used some west system. I find the Raka has less blush to deal with. The advantage of west system is I can get it local.

Thanks for all the replies. This is the first time I have ever tryed to remove lots of rust from metal. I have already learned about burnishing it with a wire brush, and wearing out lots of coarse sand paper on it. Buffers and grinders next.

Just found this website http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/index.html?source=google# good stuff on this subject.

That is such a cool process. Thanks for the pics. I can't wait to see your boat get wet!

I already have all of the bolts off and ready to replace. The disc sanders I have used eat up the paper very quickly. I take it this is not what you mean when you mention a "buffer".

I do not see this topic discussed here often but I'm sure many people can benefit from some good ideas. I just dragged home a pretty old trailer for my CS17. It has a good bit of surface rust on the frame. I have removed all of the supports although they are in good shape, the ubolts that hold them on need to be replaced. Needs a new winch and trailer jack. My question to you all is what is the best way do deal with the rust? All input is appreciated.

One more little tip, if you have pieces which require more than an 8 foot span (such as the sides and bottoms of a CS17) Join the plywood before cutting the pieces. :oops:

I am finishing up a CS17 after 2 years of work (interupted by A major surgery). I also was pretty much a woodworking novice. I have made mistakes and my second boat will be much better than the first but there were no mistakes made that enough epoxy and wood flour wouldn't fix. Go for it and build your boat!

I just got home with an old trailer I bought for my CS 17, It needs lots of work but it will have no trouble hauling my boat. I have been thinking about this very subject and have come to the conclusion that a roller under the center board would be much better than any uncontrolled agressive reprofiling.

I know this is an old thread but I had to put in my $.02 for "Small Craft Advisor". In the last issue there is even a great picture of a weekender flying a topsail at a woodenboat festival. The magazine contains a different boat review and plan review each week, along with adventure stories, and sometimes things like tips on racing and such. Good reading, great pictures, and it makes an outstanding wishbook.

That boat looks great! I was wondering how well that trolling motor moves her. I am planning to use one for auxilliary power when I get hull 113 finished. (This spring for sure). Is it adequate for running her up to the trailer and that kind of thing?

I really like the trolling motor setup. Where are you going to put the controls? Very cool boat. I second the admiration of the color, it is very nice.

I can sympathize with the beginning mistake. Here is another one not to do. Don,t cut out the bottom and side pieces before you tape the plywood together. I had to unwire mine 3 times and do much planing to get out the three inch gap where the pieces didn't quite match up perzactly. Congratulations on starting. I am still working on mine. Starting is the second hardest thing to do. Finishing I think will be hardest.

Cool idea. If the handles do break, you will only have wasted 6 bucks and killed some time and you will still have two perfectly good oar blades!!!

Good luck to you and yours. Hope all is well. I will also be glad when all of these hurricanes, tropical storms, etc. stop sending rain, tornados, and 110% humidity to Atlanta so I can get some work done on my boat.

The power of high river water is an awsome thing. I once floated off a sweetgum tree that would have taken two men to reach around when the Blackwarrior river came up. Those pictures take me back to when I lived by the river.

Was that article in the May-June 2005 issue? This looks like a good magazine.

I too am in this same predicament. Could say we're all not in the same boat. Sailing every night in my dreams and going to work everyday working long hours so I can pay for boat goudgens. Then comes the weekend when I can actually spend some time with "Sunshine" and things perk up.

Whether he will sit on your shoulder or not, I hope he can handle a couple of lines for you! Sounds like you will have plenty to keep him busy.

All the parts about rain and humidity also apply to the southeast lately.

That is a beautiful boat.

Have you looked at the various cape cod cat boat designs from Ted Brewer? They Have a draft of just over 2 feet and range in size from I think 18 feet to 25 feet. Might be worth looking at for your application.