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About Noklin

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1

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  • Location
    Southport, NC

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  1. Greg, I worked up there at the Cook power plant several years ago. So I understand about the cold weather. But south Florida is not much better. Here I work on my CS 20 in the late fall, winter and early spring. The five months of summer are way to hot to work in the garage with temperatures hitting 105 heat index. Building is suppose to be fun and that is NOT fun.
  2. Noklin


    Not sure where the information is on the drawings, but I asked the same question when I was building my CS20 cradle. As I remember, the center support is 3/4" below the height of the front and rear support.
  3. I need to make up some rub rail material for my Core Sound 20. Rub rail will be painted. If I do a 8 to 1 scarf in material that is 1.5 inches wide and 0.75 inches thick, I end up with a joint 1.5" X 6" or 9 sq inches of glue area. If I do a 8 to 1 joint in the same material but cut across the face of the material, I end up with a joint 12" X 0.75" or 9 sq inches of glue area. One upside is that the second joint is easier since I can clamp the two pieces together, overlapped by the length of the cut and cut both at once. The two pieces with be a perfect match to each other. Down side is that I lose a foot of length and the joint is visibly much longer. I may not be using the correct terms here but hopefully you can understand the questions: Since they have the same glue area but one joint is across the face and the other is along the edge, which is stronger and by how much? Will they both take the same bend?
  4. I had this sitting around my living room for the last few years. Guess I could use it for my CS20. It must weight 12 pounds. It would do double duty, compass and ballast. Should would be easy to read and its lit for night time use.
  5. Duckworks is posting messages from the race. Looks like the CS20 got sideways to the surf crossing the bar coming in to Check Point 1, had a wave break across them and almost capsized. They checked in and went back out right away. Looks like they are behind a Sea Pearl but in a close race.
  6. I am a first time builder with very little wood working experience prior to starting the CS20. The most used tool has been the variable speed 6" RO sander. I have spend more hours using it that I like to think about. It is used for almost anything short of leveling a surface. One thing that it took me a long time to figure out is that sandpaper is a lot less expensive than my limited building time. I used to try to get as much use from a disk of sandpaper as possible. I ending up polishing the surface instead of sanding it. I now change the paper as soon as I notice a drop in it cutting. I now get the job done in half the time. A carbide cabinet scraper is a another great tool, cutting the epoxy off is a lot faster than sanding it.
  7. Duckworks has a link on their boat plans page to a series of boat building videos by Warren Messer. He currently has 16 videos, each approximately 10 minutes long, about building his 12 ft Gransville Bay skiff. I understand that Graham teaches a boat building class at the local collage. I was wondering if he had ever considered doing something simular. The video could show how easy it is to assemble one of his designs. I think that anyone considering building a small boat would find it very interesting and I could see that it could be a very good selling tool. Watching how easy it is to go 3D would answer a lot of 'can I do it'/'how hard is it' questions most people have before they start. I think that a lot of us who are already building one of his desgins (CS 20 myself) would be interested and would likely learn something.
  8. Noklin

    Escape rig

    A few years ago I looked at a cheap plastic boat sold under the brand name of Escape. The boat had an interesting cat boat rig. It used a free standing carbon mast with separate boom. Both were deck mounted with bearings that allowed them to turn easily. With a separate boom not attached to the mast, releasing the outhaul and pulling the reefing line would rotate the mast to reef or store the mainsail around the mast within seconds. The boom came up vertically high enough for head clearance before bending horizontally. The sail was loose footed and only attached to the boom by the outhaul. From what I read and heard from other people, the rig worked well. Not sure how well it would work reefed. Does anyone know if this type of rig has been used on other boats?
  9. I had the same problem on my CS20. I was not in a hurry so I tried several fixes before I found what worked for me. I installed a double set of wires from the bulkhead down between the hull panels and around the cradle cross member. I tighten these with a screwdriver as much as I figured I could get by with. I let this set for a day and retighten the wires. Over several days I tighten the wires and the bulkhead came down into position. I believe that the hull sides relaxed allowing the bulkhead to move down into place. I checked and could not detect a problem with the hull side panels after the bulkhead was in place. May not be the best fix, but it worked for me.
  10. I have been considering any modifications that I might want to make to the CS20 prior to a trip to Belize via Cuba and Mexico. As I understand it the current bendy mast design is a safety factor in that it will dump a gust instead of causing the boat to capsize. Over several years of reading the messages posted here, I have seen complains about the mast bending to dump the gust instead of causing the boat to accelerate. Another person had about 700 lbs on the windward rail keeping the boat upright when a strong gust hit and his mizzen mast failed (if I remember right he was not using the recommended mast tubing). One person who was using the recommended mast tubing had a very small tree limb catch the upper section of the mast and cause a failure of the lower mast due to the long level arm. I have seen it recommended that a strong section of rubber shock absorber be installed when anchoring with all chain so that a section of the chain is held in a loop and the rubber band acts to slow the boat down prior to reaching the end of the chain. Several marine catalogs show a rubber snubber made for this purpose. There is some new high tech rope available that is stronger than SS wire for the same size. For the same breaking strength you can use a smaller diameter. As I figure the boat weight for the Belize trip I quickly get to the recommended load limit for a CS20 of 700 lbs (assuming a boat weight of 600 lbs). Taking all of this into consideration, I was wondering if a compromise could be worked out with a side stay rigged from small diameter high tech rope with a rubber snubber similar to the anchor chain discussed above. This setup would allow the upper mast section to bend to minimize the capsize force while limiting the mast bend to less than what could cause a mast failure with the boat loaded to its capacity. This arrangement should have minimum wind resistance and also help protect the mast from damage in a bad capsize. The trick would be figuring out the length and strength of the snubber that would allow the right amount of mast bend.
  11. Ken, I like your suggestion. I am now thinking that a permanent hard dodger forward could provide the privacy needed now and a temporary canvas cover from the dodger aft to a temporary hard bulkhead just forward of the the mizzen mast would provide the added protection for the trip south. The temporary hard bulkhead would provide a secure place for the cover to be attached and provide a bridge deck and companion way hatch to minimize water taken on board in bad weather. I have started making a list of the equipment I think I would need for the trip and the boat modifications I would want to make. Will have a much better feel for what it would actually take when I get my boat in the water and get some actual experience with its handling in high winds/waves.
  12. While doing the finish sanding on my CS20 prior to painting, I managed to sand down to the epoxy at the shear line edge. I used the System 3 water reducible LPU primer and intend to use their LPU topcoat. My question, what is the best method of recovery? I am out of the System 3 primer. Can I use a water based primer to touch up the bare spot and still cover with the LPU topcoat? Can I paint over the bare spot with the LPU topcoat and expect it to stick? If possible, I would prefer not having to order more LPU primer.
  13. Shackleton's Boat Journey is one of my favorites. They did what they had to do in order to survive. They used boulders placed in the bottom of the boat for ballast and then had to sleep on them. Every day they had to climb out alone the topsides to chip off the ice buildup that was causing the boat to be top heavy. The real measure of their journey was illustrated when they reached safety in a whaling port, the whaling ship masters were astonished at the journey they had made in such a small boat during that time of the season. As I recall it took the large rescue ship two attempts to reach the stranded men due to the weather.
  14. I picked the CS 20 over the CS 17 to have more room for myself, the wife and the 3 grandkids (ages 18, 13 and 11). With a possible trip from Florida to Belize via Cuba in the next 6 years and the current need for privacy with any where from 1 to 3 women aboard I was wondering about adding a cabin. The problem is that I expect to sail alone most of the time and I like the big open feeling of the CS20 without a cabin. I know that several people have already added a cabin to the CS20, but I was wondering if anyone had considered adding a removable cabin. What I am thinking about is a 1/8
  15. Building my CS20 has taught me a lot of things. One thing that I already knew was that I am not a painter. The masking tape maker recommends that the tape be removed prior to the paint drying, otherwise the edge of the stripe could be damaged by the paint sticking to the tape. The paint maker recommends at least 3 coats of paint, the last two coats applied after the previous coat has dried to the touch. Should I just ignore the recommendation of the tape maker and hope for the best when I remove the tape after the third coat of paint has dried? Should I attempt to cut alone the edge of the tape with a razor blade after the last coat has set up before removing the tape. Not sure how I am to determine where the edge is after being covered with 3 coats of paint. How would I control the depth of the cut to prevent damage to the paint. Should I remove the tape after each coat of paint and replace it prior to the next coat? This sounds like a lot of work, but other than that it should work.
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