CS Hatch Closing Ideas

[JPower210]

I was at B and B last week, picking up the kit for my CS17 since I have not been able to get started with the plans that I have had for a long time.  I am really excited to get started building, and have started on some of the assemblies and the masts.  The kit is amazing, and cutting plywood, which is my least favorite part of building, not including sanding, is no longer an issue.

 

While I was there Alan showed me the method he came up with of keeping his hatch closed.  Definitely very cool.  I really like the idea of no external closures for the aft and fore hatch.  

 

Has anyone else come up with some cool solutions?

 

Alan- would you post some pictures-  I really wish I had brought my camera with me....

 

Thanks!

 

JP

[Dnjost]

I did bungees from underneath, one port, one starboard that hook onto the hooks visible in the second photo.  I added a lanyard to the hatch to keep it from floating away accidentally.  

 

[ecgossett]

I did the exact same thing with bungees... Normally i just have one on there, and the other end is wrapped around my tubes for oar handles. 

 

The bungees are long yellow ones with hooks that can be easily disconnected.

 

However, I did just upgrade with a strap across the top anchored on both ends by a washer and screw. The strap is connected with plastic buckle. I upgraded it for rough weather in case the bow was underwater a lot.

 

For my seat hatches, I bought some black bungee cord 1/4" or something, and did two holes an inch apart on the front of the hatches. Behind it you have 1/8" of room because of your spacer for the waterway. Down about two inches below the hatch I installed plastic knobs from duckworks, port is red, and stbd is green. Just be careful sizing the line, so when you install SS staples/clips (available at kayak shops, or west marine) for bungee cord, you have a good tight fit on the shockcore around the knobs. Also, make sure when cinching the stable down that both SS ends are tucked in well, as I did a small gouge in my inner waterway wall due to a rough end.

 

In the attached photo you can see the bungee cord, if you need photos I'll go take some.

[Dnjost]

I did the same for the side locker hatches.  I used a loop of bungee secured by a dab of CA glue and then seized with a whipping.  A screw with a washer backed up on the inside with a small block holds the loop in place.  It goes over small mahogany knobs on each locker made from leftover framing.  The stern locker has knobs that turn to hold the hatch closed.  I did use a dab of blue locktite on the nuts.  

 

Time will tell if this works well enough.  I like Ed's idea of a buckle over the front deck hatch.  No way you want that open in a rough sea. 

[PAR]

My favorite style of simple hatch/locker latch. Perko part number 0559. It's all plastic, so no rust or corrosion, no moving parts, no springs, hingle pins or anything to wear out, etc. Just pull to open and push to close.

 

 

Then of course the "slam" latch:

 

This is a SeaDog part #SD28120 and it takes a little more force to close, but these are used on production boats all the time, for bait wells, electrical panel access, etc.

[JPower210]

Thanks PAR for those part numbers!  That Perko one may be the replacement I have been looking for for all the finger pull closures I have on my big boat.

 

JP

[Chick Ludwig]

Par, where is a good online source for Sea Dog? I used to use their hardware on my production boats when I could buy wholesale, but now I need a retail supplier.

[ecgossett]

www.fisheriessupply.com for seadog stuff

 

http://www.theolympian.com/2014/11/16/3424028/a-race-a-sailor-and-a-communitys.html

This boat sank up here, and has made a couple of us Core Sound owners a little paranoid about hatches. The coast guard said the front hatch popped off, and that is why the boat sank filled up and sank. I know a lot of guys in Gig Harbor with there wooden boats who are rethinking how hatches are locked down.

[PAR]

Trailer boats are a bit different in their approuch to securing a hatch or cockpit locker. A moored boat or one that takes to deeper water, needs to have more serious closures, a positive latch system. There are lots of these to choose from too, possably too many to list. Captive hooks, cantilevered cranks, etc. The best kind have few moving parts and all made of inert or corrosion resistant meterals. Be carfull, because an all stainless latch might have a regular spring steel spring, making the whole thing work. You have to decide waht you want, a latch that'll keep the hatch from flying open, while driving down the interstate, or a latch that'll keep the thing dogged down, possably still water tight when inverted. Huge difference in choices in this regard.

 

DuckWorks Supply (Tell Chuck I sent you) has the Sea Dog latch and the Perko is available though lots of places that carry Perko stuff.

[Casper]

Hi

 

I am building a Core Sound 20 and the attached photos show my solution which was cheap, effective and does not detract too much from the traditional look of the rest of the boat. The only drawback is that it was a bit fiddly to build. Except for the little ramps (which are essential to pull the cover downwards), all the bits and pieces are carried by every half-decent chandler. Hope this helps.

 

Howard

[PAR]

Good idea Howard. I prefer hidden latch systems and hinges that can't foul lines, if one is dragged across the top of the hatch.

 

http://messing-about.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=7878

 

Here's a lousy photo of a hinge system I use frequently. Completely home made, except for the barrel bolt. This one has a more upright profile, but I also make them with much more slope to the exposed side, so lines can slide over them. This one opens a full 180 degrees so it can lie on the deck and the latch is similar to the one I posted above. Simple is almost always best, which probably explains my other half's attraction with me . . .