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Marissa 18 Eco Build ~ PHOTOS~


MikeLTour61

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This is an absolute first in boat blogdom:  A builder who not only says but proves that his project take less time than expected.  And what a project.  We've all been impressed by the skill, style and speed that have marked the construction of this craft.  Can't wait to see the launch.

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Hi everyone and thank you for the kind words.  If there was such a thing as instant-dry epoxy (that actually worked) I would be even further along.  The thing that amazed me was how fast Lotus built his.  I think he must be bionic... "The Six-Million-Dollar-Boatbuilder".  (he may not get that reference, being from Malta)

 

Dale, Tautog is another beautiful boat.  Is it a round-bottom boat?

 

Come to find out, I have been missing my Hull Number.  I didn't even know I needed one but I had wondered how many came before me.  My number is 53 which sounds like a lot until Carla listed the hull numbers of some of the other boats they offer.  Some were over 1000! 

 

The older I get the more I think about my legacy.. my kids & what I will be remembered for.  I think that making it possible for thousands of empowered, fulfilled boatbuilders to enjoy thousands of hours of boating with their families all over the world is a pretty damn good legacy.  Carla and Graham have done great things!

 

Enough mushy stuff except my new assistant (see the first photo) has slowed my progress.  Somehow, she knows when I'm about to do something important and suddenly shows up with a tennis ball and a wagging tail.

 

Over the weekend, I got my bilge pump scheme ironed out.  I refuse to go out in a boat that does not have at least one bilge pump (a bucket will do).  Personally, I like to have two electric and one people-powered pumps.  I'm aware that a large hole (log or stump through the hull) will swamp any electric bilge pump I could install but leaks are usually small. 

 

Following the friendly advice people posted, I found a long sweeping 90 deg. PVC fitting.  It fit fine so no further modifications were necessary.

 

I installed a 500 gph pump on a trusty level switch and a 1000 gph on a trusty on/off switch.  I will install a buzzer on the level switch to let me know I'm taking on water.  I'm an electrical engineer so the electrical system in this boat will be suitable for interstellar transport.

 

 

 

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Sorry to disappoint you Mike but I'm not bionic and not even a superhuman but anyway thanks for the compliment !! ;)  :lol:

 

By the way my hull number is 50, wonder whats the destiny of Marissa plans number 51 & 52 !?!  Would be nice to hear about them too !!

 

Last week I have registered mine . All's left is some little paper work, some upholstery and some decals, hope it will all be done by the 5 th of February and she will be my greatest birthday present !!  

 

I like the idea of making one bilge pump on level switch & buzzer  and the other one manually . Mine are both manual but would like to have one automatic. I always got the idea that those level switches will give trouble and dose not find it whey you rely need it !  

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Mike, you have done a fantastic job so far (Lotus, you as well).  May I ask what the plastic fitting is for, the one that seems to abut or pierce the starboard side of the hull in the third picture- or is it just a piece of cunningly positioned offcut?

 

Lotus, I have the plans for hull number 52, which is interesting because I only purchased them about a month ago, i.e long after Mike started his build.

 

Warm regards

 

Marius

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Marius, one correction.  Mike is the builder of this boat.  I finished my Marissa 'Salty' Nov 2013.

 

One other comment for Mike & Lotus or anybody else that might have an interest.

 

I opted for the simple uncomplicated route.  I do not have any bilge pumps.  My feeling is that these are stitch and glue composite epoxy fiberglass boats.  These boats will not leak small amounts as Mike suggested. I guess I should add that my boat is kept on a lift or trailer most of the time.  I have been told that three coats of epoxy is waterproof.  I guess I believe that.  I agree with Mike that if you have a major failure of the hull or penetration that a bilge will not help much.  I do have a bucket and I am sure I will bail very fast if necessary.  I have included access hatches in order to be able to inspect the bilge to see if I am right.  If necessary, I will retro-fit one later.  The other thing I should mention is that I do not go offshore.  I actually enjoy the intercoastal and shallower waters better.  I guess this comes from my sailing my CS 17 in a foot or less water.  You see wildlife, etc. there.

 

my opinion.

 

dale

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Dale, I must have phrased things wrong.  If my hull leaks water, I really screwed up, that's for sure.  My hope and intention is that the boat will not leak from the bottom up (or at all for that matter) but their are several ways for water to get into the bilge that doesn't involve leaks.  I anchor a lot... go from one spot to the next and go swimming and fishing.  The anchor rode locker drains to the bilge.  Also, I will have a total of five deck plates that, although the manufacturer claims they are, I doubt are watertight.  We do a lot of swimming and climbing into a boat wet brings a lot of water. 

 

That said, I'll bet my investment in bilge pumps, switches, wire, hose, SS thru-hulls, etc, never even get one use.  It's just my Navy training kicking in telling me there's never too many ways to get water out of a boat (unless all the dewatering equipment sinks the boat).

 

Marius, the second piece of PVC that appears to go through the hull is actually the collar for the bilge pump hoses as shown in picture 5.  It was just laying in the bilge when I took the shot.

 

Oh, and Marius, you should check out Dale's Salty.  It's beautiful.... and the color scheme, forgettaboudit!  There are some pictures of it earlier in this thread.  I wish there were more though (hint, hint).

 

As far as the hull numbering goes, I think it goes by when Carla writes your name in the book.  She was out for quite a while when I was getting my plans. wood, fiberglass and resin from Graham.  I think I actually was assigned the number yesterday... it's not really chronologically dependent. 

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Mike.

WOA!  Your anchor locker drains into the bilge.  Mine does not and I am pretty sure Graham's plans do not have it drain into the bilge.  Mine drains into the cockpit floor which is a bit of a mess but I for sure would not want it draining into the bilge.  As for water coming aboard when entering the boat from swimming, etc. This should exit from the two scuppers at the transom.  I agree with you that some deck hatches may or will leak.  I only have two in the cockpit floor.  In the very beginning, I did find a very small amount of water getting into the bilge through the hatch.  I discovered that when painting the non skid on the floor I got it too close to the edge and therefore the grit was not allowing the hatch to seal properly.  Even then this was a very minor problem but I did check the bilge often.  Another thing I discovered was the water was only entering when I cleaned it out with the hose at the end of the trip.

 

Hope this helps.

 

dale

 

PS: no problem Marius.  You did not have to correct it.  I just wanted you to know that Mike is the guy doing all the fine work on this boat and it is his thread.  We just highjack it once in awhile.

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Know what Dale?  Now that I'm thinking about it, you are right.  I don't have the sole under the casting platform installed yet but I remember seeing the holes in BHD 1 just above it.  I believe this to be true but I will verify prior to permanent installation.  Thank you so much for pointing that out so I don't forget to verify.

 

I'm using the scuppers that Graham used on Marrissa.  They're not the most attractive contraptions but if they work, I'll be happy.  I'm a pretty big guy and when I climb in from swimming I suspect the scupper will be WAY under water:-)

 

Dale and others,  I know I asked this before but what did you use for non-skid.  Paint additive or something in the epoxy or ???  I've heard a lot of things but I'd like to hear from someone who's done it on this type (wood/epoxy) of construction.  The deck will be Matterhorn White and I don't want dark colored texture wearing through the paint.

 

Also,  I'm getting ready to install flotation.  What did "ya'll" use for foam and adhesive?  I'm planning on attaching the foam to the underside of the sole as Graham suggests.

 

Great things, these forums.  I learn all the time but nobody makes you feel 'less than'.  Everyone who chimes in has useful information, kind words and valid questions.  It's kind of like going to a shrink except it's not $200/hour and you gain useful information.

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Quick answer.  I used AwlGrip paint and also their non-skid.  I was going to use walnut chips and my neighbor and the gal who painted my boat said they are a problem and the AwlGrip non-skid wears off at the same rate as the paint so it is not noticeable. So far after one year and not heavy use it is looking great.

 

I used blue foam. Glued with epoxy on underside of cockpit floor.  I will have to look it up what brand and type the foam was.

 

Gee, are our opinions worth $200 per hour ya think?  Nobody else I know thinks mine is.

 

dale

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Dale, if it weren't for people like you, I could/would easily make $200 worth of mistakes in an hour (two pieces of plywood??, one gallon of topcoat??)

 

I have received all my hardware that I know that I'll need - cleats, chocks, lights, anchor roller... all of it.  I received my fuel tank and cooler/seat last night!!  I have most of my electrical supplies except electronics.  I'll be looking for a GPS/depth sounder at the Greenville boat show over the weekend.  I'll also be shopping for the motor.  I've heard you can get some good deals at boat shows.... I'll report my findings.

 

I have also received a few care packages from Graham and Carla.  Some minor parts didn't quite fit right but now, for the most part, all is well.  I still think the console front piece isn't quite right but I have enough spare ply to make what I need.  I got some extra epoxy and other supplies.  The great people at B&B are very responsive and big on quality.

 

The only thing holding be back is this crazy job that I have.  They want me here FIVE days a week.... 8 hours per day!  They don't seem to realize that I have important things to do.

 

Mike

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just noticed that it has been a LONG time since my last update. 

 

I received my trailer which happened to be the wrong one.  The 'correct' one is on order.  I have ordered my motor and all the rigging: A Yamaha 40 with trim and tilt.  It should be in around the first of March.  I have ordered my fuel tank and seat/cooler from B&B and already received those.  Graham saved me a bunch of money on that stuff and in general, if Graham sells it, you're better off buying from him - you'll save $$$.

 

My new helper (my dog who's name is BB.  Not because of the boat but because she has one blue and one brown eye) has been keeping me pretty busy along with that pesky job that I desperately need to finance my project.

 

It seems that I spent a disproportionate amount of time working in the motorwell area.  The was a lot of pondering and lots of decisions to be made but now I've moved on.  Lately, I've been devising a fuel tank hold-down system and braces under the deck where I will put two 10" x 20" hatches... same as the Marissa.  Once I get that all sorted and installed, it's on to getting the floor installed and everything that follows.

 

Originally, I was going to use a thru-hull transducer for depth, speed and water temp.  I have reconsidered and will be going with a transom-mount.  In my experience, thru-hull is more reliable but, from what I've read, can be problematic with a cored hull.  Any input is always welcome.

 

Anyway, progress has been pretty slow but here are some of the latest photos of the build:

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Thanks Steve.  I hope it helps.

 

I have a question for people who have built the Marrissa and used the fuel tank recommended (or provided) by Graham.  The last picture in my previous post shows where the fuel tank in the position I plan to install it.  As you can see, the fill, vent and pickup are located to the aft of the tank. In the Moeller drawing below, these fittings are located on the side of the tank.

 

My question is, has anyone installed a tank like I have or was I sent the wrong tank?  Also, if the tank I have is what everyone else is using, do I have its orientation correct?  I thought about rotating it 180 deg. but that would cause me to run out of gas earlier:-).

 

Thanks,

Mike

 

 

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I spoke with Graham yesterday and he said the tank that I have IS in fact different BUT he said it would work.  I actually like the layout of the fill, vent and suction better with the tank I have.  The only downside is the fill and vent lines will go straight up through any shelf or deck I might want to install in the console.  I'm thinking about making or buying a stainless or aluminum 90 that would change the direction of the fill pipe but we'll see how it all looks with the console mounted.

 

Dale, I have installed the sole in the anchor locker and confirmed that it the anchor rode locker does drain above the sole as you said.  All is well :)

 

This weekend I will install the braces for the casting platform and deck plates for the main sole and fuel tank hold-down arrangement.  The deck will be installed soon after.

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I believe you have the same tank I used.  However, I mounted mine with the fill etc forward.  It seems to work OK but does change registration depending on attitude of the boat.  As I recall, my tank goes back under the floor and I would not have been able to mount it aft.  Check out where the aft side of your console falls before installing.  Mine could be wrong.

 

Glad you are draining anchor well to cockpit.  Out of hull would be best but does not seem to be a way to do that.

 

You are making excellent progress.

 

dale

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Here are three photos. Two of what it looks like under my console. Both are taken from the aft console opening.  The one with the battery is facing forward and shows the stuff going into the forward mounting of the tank. The second is not good focus but shows the underside of the instrument panel.  The third shows the instrument from the top outside.

 

Hope it may help you.

 

dale

 

 

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