mattp Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Anybody have experience with this? We have a local fab shop that has an operation that can handle the finished length (minus end caps, wooden plugs, and epoxy that would probably melt) and I know it would be a very durable finish. My concern is about the extra weight in the worst place; up high. Quote
Phil Garland Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Not enough weight to worry about vs. the benefit of protecting the aluminum Quote
Howard Posted January 17, 2014 Posted January 17, 2014 Matt: Can't help you with the powder coating. A friend of a friend has become a pretty decent shade tree type guy with automotive paints......normally paints used cars, trucks and farm equipment. He did a decent job on my Spindrift mast sections with an epoxy primer, paint and clear coat. I recall the major concern was getting the amount of flex additive right. They look good so far and the two part automotive paints are durable. That is my current plan for finishing the Princess masts when the time comes. Of course all that is on the outside of the masts. Not sure what becomes of the inside, unless one simply lets them oxidize and rely on that to protect them. Quote
mattp Posted January 17, 2014 Author Posted January 17, 2014 Not enough weight to worry about vs. the benefit of protecting the aluminumPhilip: Did you powder coat the masts on your CS17?I also have a little concern about the coating affecting or being affected by the flex of the masts. Quote
Phil Garland Posted January 17, 2014 Posted January 17, 2014 Matt, we used a special Sherwin-Williams urethane coating system called Genesis...it is designed for automotive and OEM production painting...it is a new product that we were trying out...its advantage is you can prime and paint topcoat in one process rather than wait and sand between coatings. So far it has worked out fine on our test boats and is now being used on one of our OEM boats, the new J-88. I think any good quality urethane with a primer for aluminum would be fine for your masts. Quote
Hirilonde Posted January 18, 2014 Posted January 18, 2014 I think any good quality urethane with a primer for aluminum would be fine for your masts. I think the primer for aluminum part is the key. For the boom of my Renegade I used Awlgrip's zinc chromate epoxy primer made just for that purpose. It worked superbly. I used Alwgrip's 545 as the primer on my Spindrift mast and had issues a couple years down the line. Quote
Charlie Jones Posted January 18, 2014 Posted January 18, 2014 I've used Zinc Chromate primer on 5 different masts- works quite well. I did a 21 footer's mast about 10 years ago- and over coated with 2 part poly paint- still looks great except where it's been scraped You can buy (at least here you can) Zinc Chromate in spray cans at our Ace Hardware Quote
Scott Dunsworth Posted January 18, 2014 Posted January 18, 2014 My only concern would be the high heat it takes to powder coat removing or weakening the temper of the alloy. Quote
PAR Posted January 18, 2014 Posted January 18, 2014 The heat of powder coating (350 - 400f depending o product) will have no affect on the aluminum's temper. Powder coating is a good option if you can afford the added thickness. Quote
Ken_Potts Posted January 19, 2014 Posted January 19, 2014 Is there really any problem with not coating aluminium at all? I thought bare aluminium just became anodized with exposure to the environment. Quote
PAR Posted January 19, 2014 Posted January 19, 2014 Aluminum oxidizes with exposure, which in itself is protective, though not attractive. Anodizing is actually plating (like chrome on steel). Unlike steel where oxidation actually destroys the base materiel, aluminum just develops this chalky "patina" and isn't structurally compromised. Many thousands of production boat masts have survived many decades, without a drop of paint or other coating. Quote
Ken_Potts Posted January 19, 2014 Posted January 19, 2014 I'm pretty sure anodizing is oxidation, not plating. I'll check on it and report back... Quote
PAR Posted January 19, 2014 Posted January 19, 2014 Technically, we're both correct, though anodizing is an electrochemical process performed on nonferrous metals (titanium, magnesium, etc.). It's an anodic oxide electrically "activated" (aluminum is the cathode while in the chemical "tub") with the substrate, rather than being applied, like paint or plating. I guess you could call it a highly controlled form of forced oxidation. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.