Rustoleum Marine paint

[hokeyhydro]

I doubt this alkaloid base paint has the abrasion resistance required by a kayak which will be dragged over all sorts of nasty bits, but I'm giving it a whirl. One coat of primer which is heavy and I sanded most of it off, just left the fill spots behind. Just finished first coat of finish, both primer and top coat applied with a thin foam roller.

Both primer and top coat glossed out well without any tipping off other than a final roll with no pressure, as in the weight of the roller only - a light touch.

Primer requires mondo mixing, probably should have employed a power device such as mixer thingy in a portable drill, but no, I just stirred and stirred, and stirred. A two beer mix. Primer is thick and lots of filler stuff clotted in the bottom.Top coat easy mix.

The paint stinks. I was weather trapped in a two car garage and by the time I finished rolling on primer I had a wicked buzz. For the top coat I cracked open my impressive arsenal of spray equipment and found my activated charcoal paint fume respirator and wore that. Sweet. I was breathing clear air while the garage bugs were gasping.

According to the can directions, recommended drying time at my unheated garage temp of near 60 F. was 16 hours. Actually the paint was touch dry in a few hours. Primer had a good 24 + before a caught a break and had time to sand it, and it sanded well. Next up, scuff the top coat down and add a second coat - the Oyster White over spotty primer & resin/Fg coated okoume didn't hide perfectly in one coat.

Anyhoo, barring any major paint malfunctions in the near future I would say this paint may a good choice for a less expensive finish since the color costs about $12 and is available at the Big Box stores (i.e. Lowes). But as mentioned, the fumes are noxious so pick up an activated charcoal twin respirator as well.

[ecgossett]

The problem found with oyster white is it gets dirty easily, and the big box stores all seem to sell flat (hides problems with wood nicely). I upgraded my paint to Petitt easy poxy for about $5 and was much happier. Abrasion wise, Rustoleum was not impressive, the two part primer from Interlux held up really really well on bottom. If you know anyone with a Port Supply at West Marine, Interlux becomes very affordable and better priced then Rustoleum at Lowes.

[Scott Dunsworth]

The first time I painted my belhaven I used rustoleum marine paint on the decks and cabin top. It held up better than the Kirby's that I painted the hull sides with, but still stained like all single part paints.

[hokeyhydro]

The problem found with oyster white is it gets dirty easily, and the big box stores all seem to sell flat (hides problems with wood nicely). I upgraded my paint to Petitt easy poxy for about $5 and was much happier. Abrasion wise, Rustoleum was not impressive, the two part primer from Interlux held up really really well on bottom. If you know anyone with a Port Supply at West Marine, Interlux becomes very affordable and better priced then Rustoleum at Lowes.

Flat? At my Lowes all the Rustoleum Marine top coat was gloss. Flat, and even semi-gloss paint tends to collect dirt and grime easier, so I avoid that style

[hokeyhydro]

The first time I painted my belhaven I used rustoleum marine paint on the decks and cabin top. It held up better than the Kirby's that I painted the hull sides with, but still stained like all single part paints.

Aye, staining may be a problem since closest water is Brice's Creek, tannin stained swamp spillage, and the Trent, which is brackish water thinned pig poop. Dealing with stain back in my racing days when a weekend in the Roanoke River left mung on my rigs I used a strong mix of Spic & Span to soak it clean.

[Scott Dunsworth]

I would use two part and forget about it for ten years. Epifanes makes a conversion primer that can go over one part primer or paint so you don't have to take her back down to the epoxy. For about $100 you can have the most durable stain free paint job, that will last and last and always look new. Your boat will look like new all the time for, like I said at least ten years, then after ten years it will still look better than any one year old single paint on a boat that's been used very much.

I'm completely sold on two part, from experience. I won't even use one part on the interior of any of my boats!!!!

Scott

[Charlie Jones]

And a weak solution of Oxalic Acid and water, will wipe that tannin stain off like erasing a blackboard. You get the same thing from running the ICW- known as "the waterway frown".

I get mine a ACE, in the paint section. They call it wood bleach. I keep a container aboard always. Works with salt water too.

[Charlie Jones]

I'm completely sold on two part, from experience. I won't even use one part on the interior of any of my boats!!!!

Scott

Scott- you might want to re think that. I've used nothing but Acrylic Latex enamels on boat interiors for almost 20 years now, with total satisfaction. Both mine and customers boats. I use semi gloss- water clean up, not strong odor, washable and long lasting.

NOT talking about the old latex stuff- ACRYLIC latex is way different- and you can repaint a part, and sleep aboard that night.

[makenmend]

for the bottom of a kayay that will see contact with rocks, oysters and other such damaging components,Iv'e had my best results with just a grafite mix. My goto boat has 3 years of running rocky rivers and with an occasional touch up looks just fine. One by product I found was the ability to glide over large area's of moss/weed that my buds had to work through and i didn't.

MM

[Charlie Jones]

One other point- on the Rustoleum paints- We used the spar varnish on Traveler just before a Tex 200 one year. Within three weeks it was lifting from the sun. And yes, we KNOW how to prep- ran a furniture repair shop for 20 years

[ecgossett]

The flat oyster was all my local lowes had. The only good thing about rusteloum is it touches up easily for darker colors on sides you beat or scratch up.

[hokeyhydro]

One other point- on the Rustoleum paints- We used the spar varnish on Traveler just before a Tex 200 one year. Within three weeks it was lifting from the sun. And yes, we KNOW how to prep- ran a furniture repair shop for 20 years

Spar varnish - I've used Minwax Helmsman gloss spar varnish - quick drying, nice finish, hard but seems to scratch easy, and Ace hardware (no clue who makes it) gloss spar varnish, slower drying but a nice finish with a bit more varnish amber than Helmsman. The Ace varnish is on my daughter's wood/epoxy catamaran and it gets beat up. After two seasons of bruising everyone who sailed it thye cat needs a little touch up and some sort of scuff guard deal where the tillers run up on the deck when the rudders retract.

P.S. with your skill I have no doubt you know how to prep so I will scratch Rustoleum varnish from my list of test finishes.i

[Dnjost]

I have used Kirby's for years and have found it easy to maintain and apply with low tech methods. However,, I admit to not needing to repaint as I seem to sell the boats before five years has gone by. I really like the Benjamin Moore traditional spar varnish and it has held up well in the New England weather. If you want a professional racing finish you should probably go with the two part linear polyurethane.

[Hirilonde]

I have used Kirby's for years and have found it easy to maintain and apply with low tech methods.

Kirby paints are formulated basically the same as 100 years ago. Their market is classic boats and replicas and the paint is intended for use over wood, not epoxy impregnated plywood. This isn't to say you can't use it over epoxy, but that is not the intended use.

[PAR]

Alkyd (oil) paints can sometimes have issues sticking to epoxied surfaces. Primers can solve this issue, but generally the alkyds, if unmodified are soft and pliable. This is fine on untreated wood, but not so much if expecting good abrasion resistance. The majority of alkyds are now modified to make them harder, more durable, offer better UV resistance, etc. Brightsides is a modified alkyd. Even the single part polyurethanes are really a modified alkyd, though the chemistry is sufficiently different to call it something else. Stick with the modified alkyds if you desire durable, economical paints.

[Jack]

After having tried many different marine paints, the one that clearly stands out in front for me is Hempel 2 pak polly. Goes on great and is as tuff as nails.