Belhaven #30 on the Way

[TrailerSailor]

I'm really interested with the results of your changes.

Did you speak to Graham about this changes? I would like to know about his thinkings for that. Maybe its a good idea to lengthen the boat. But if to lengthen, so I had other ideas for that.

I would take maximum care for the weight in this section, because (if at all) the weight is the problem, not the "shortness" of the boat, I think. Any other ideas out there?

[maligno]

Got back to working on my Belhaven after a long break.  This was kicked off after chancing upon some lovely bits of lumber with perfect dimensions for the centerboard:

 

 

 

Glued the planks on a make-shift clamping board:

 

 

 

 

The cut-off at the lower end of the board was glued to the upper end. With the messy part done, the fairing fun will begin shortly.

 

[maligno]

More work on done on the centerboard:

 

 

Routed groove for bumper rope:

 

 

 

Grinding to shape and checking curves with templates:

 

 

[maligno]

Mining for lead for the centerboard and I'm finding out that there's very slim pickings from used car batteries these days. Unlike in the '70s when I could get over 10 pounds per battery, now I can hardly get 5.    Will start trolling the tire shops.  

 

 

 

One-pound half-discs:

 

[Howard]

With all the environmental concern over a guy melting a few wheel weights, I can't imagine what International or Galactic treaties a guy might be violating by cracking open a battery. What becomes of the acid? If you can solve that problem, I'd think there are all manner of dead deep cycle batteries out there.......I think I have a couple myself. As for melting lead, do include the flux. Gets your lead clean and shiny and helps keep the tin and antimony alloyed in the mix.

 

Looks like you got a good job on the CB shaping. I found having the rope bumper and trailing edge routed in to be a big plus on the shaping. Those are lines that don't move.

[maligno]

Thanks Howard. A lot patience as well as a lot of dust got me through the shaping of this huge board.

 

The batteries I've kept such a long time for just this day that they've almost dried out, and now I find out they're hardly worth the time and effort for such a measly output. So much for "free" lead. 

[Michael Hiester]

If you have any stained glass studios or shops in your area you might give them a try. We often have pieces of old lead came from repairs that sit around until someone heads out to the metal scrap yard to cash it in for beer money. Most of it is not pretty, but it is at least as good as tire weights.

[maligno]

Appreciate the suggestion but unfortunately the exquisite craft of stained glass making is non-existent here. 

[maligno]

Dry-fitting the cockpit seats.

 

[maligno]

Devised sliding latches for the storage hatches under the starboard quarter berth:

 

 

 

 

 

These are the parts made from odds and ends:

 

 

 

Berth top fitted in place:

 

[zumwaltd]

Rolando: nice work.  Your pictures indicate your quality skill set in working in wood.  At what point do you plan on turning the boat over and working on the bottom?

 

Dave Z

[maligno]

Thanks Dave. I really much prefer to work with wood rather than stitch and goo. 

 

I'll turn her over when the centerboard box and the cockpit seat sides are installed. Hopefully that will minimize any twisting. 

[maligno]

Tackled the issue of the doubler not attached to the hull at the centerboard area.  Cutting out a slot on the doubler shows gap under the sheet:

 

 

 

Battens are added to the lower end of the CB box, faired to the curve of the hull:

 

 

 

Dry-fitting the box; the battens will be glued directly to the hull bottom:

 

 

 

If I were to do this again, I'd either lay the doubler in wide strips or substitute it with a couple of layers of biax .

[maligno]

Record-breaking rains and extreme damp precluded glassing the centerboard box interior but I got to make a new, improved latch: stainless leaf spring holds it shut:

 

 

 

These go into V-berth storage hatches:

 

 

Hatches in place and Bulkhead No. 1 being fitted:

 

[zumwaltd]

Rolando,  Thanks for posting your build pics.  Your work looks great.  They, along with the pics that came on the cd with the plans help

me with my next steps. 

 

Dave Z

[wkisting]

I like the idea of the latches and your woodwork is very good, but I'm wondering about the design: Won't the upward facing slot for the button that operates the latch necessarily allow water to seep in? If so, I would expect the water to leak through the channel of the latch right into the locker and/or to cause the wood latch to swell and bind in the channel, possibly making it difficult or impossible to access the locker until the wooden latch dries out again. I'm sure you'll epoxy seal the wood slider, but over time, I would think the epoxy will wear away from the slide operation, leading to the binding problem.

 

One refinement might be to make the sliding latch out of HDPE (the high density plastic that many kitchen cutting boards are made out of) or another non-absorbent material. But even then, it seems like the slot for the button that operates the latch is going to permit water intrusion. No?

 

[Edit to add: Wait, I just realized these are photos of the berths, not the (open) cockpit right? So maybe it's a non issue? I thought you were using these in the cockpit lockers since they were preceded by a picture of dry-fitting the cockpit seats.]

[maligno]

Dave: Glad to be of help but please bear in mind that the modifications have moved stuff around a bit so they are not exactly to plan. 

 

Wes: Sorry about the confusion because until I get the centerboard box done and installed (there's another weather system bearing down on us!), many of the parts including the cockpit seats have not yet been glued on and I've been working on assorted stuff in no particular order.

 

The latches are for storage compartments inside the cabin under the bunks so water-tightness is not critical. I was just looking for a cheap (free?  ) alternative to SS flush ring catches. All the pieces will be dunked in epoxy when I encapsulate the interior and I think it will take a very long time to wear them out considering their actual use. But you are absolutely right, with HDPE or even Delrin or nylon they will be just as easy to fab, be more compact, will perform a lot more smoothly and last a very long time. 

[maligno]

Centerboard box interior glassed when the the sun finally came out:

 

 

 

 

Pivot holes in the epoxy bushings all lined up and the box interior is ready for painting:

 

[zumwaltd]

Rolando, thanks for the box pics.  I just cut out the sides of my box today and was not going to fiberglass the king posts but I see you did and it looks like your box will be stronger than what I was planning on.

 

Dave Z

[Scott Dunsworth]

Just a thought, before I closed up my centerboard case on my Belhaven I ground the glass at the bottom edge from almost through to a feathered edge about 2 inches into the case. This allowed me to glass the outside bottom to the inside of the case. Also I personally see no need for paint inside of the trunk. The bottom line is the bottom glass will make a nice strong water tight seal along the slot edges.

Just my 2 cents.