Snotter attachment on aluminum mast?

[ecgossett]

A lot of people are concerned about different materials corroding.. Why not get a galvanic corrision prevention spray before installing ss rivets, or use something like neoprene to protect. When we do canvas work on boats and install ss snaps on aluminum hatches we have plastic washers that prevent the corrision between seating surfaces.

The other possibly very good option is to seal bottom and top of mast and paint entire outside to prevent the corrision in the first place.

On my boat I used aluminum rivets with the backing rivet washers to ensure a good hold. It would take a catastrophic failure of all rivets to compromise. Most aluminum rivets I have looked up have a tensile strengh of at least 500lbs. I'm more worried about them possible enlarging hole and pulling through, so I used rivet washers to back up area around hole.

[hokeyhydro]

A lot of people are concerned about different materials corroding.. Why not get a galvanic corrision prevention spray before installing ss rivets, or use something like neoprene to protect. When we do canvas work on boats and install ss snaps on aluminum hatches we have plastic washers that prevent the corrision between seating surfaces.

The other possibly very good option is to seal bottom and top of mast and paint entire outside to prevent the corrision in the first place.

On my boat I used aluminum rivets with the backing rivet washers to ensure a good hold. It would take a catastrophic failure of all rivets to compromise. Most aluminum rivets I have looked up have a tensile strengh of at least 500lbs. I'm more worried about them possible enlarging hole and pulling through, so I used rivet washers to back up area around hole.

But then we have the same problem as bolting a fitting on w/locknut & washer - how to get the rivet washer INSIDE the mast tube.

[ecgossett]

But then we have the same problem as bolting a fitting on w/locknut & washer - how to get the rivet washer INSIDE the mast tube.

I used a small round magnet I found at Harbor Tools. Aluminum will not attrack magnet, so with one on outside you can move inside one around.. Lightly super glue washer to magnet so rivet will extend into hole part of magnet. Lightly compress rivet to barely hold washer on, roll mast and knock off magnet. Finish the rivet.... I'm sure something similiar could be done with nuts but that seemed more painful.

Round Ceramic Magnet: 32 mm O.D. x 9 mm Center Hole x 5 mm Thick - for example.

[Doug Cameron]

Here is a (belated) picture of the boom bail attachment I made after mine failed in the 2010 Everglades Challenge. I used a piece of threaded stainless rod with nylon nuts on each end to secure the bail. Now the force is shear rather than trying to pull out threads in the mast. You can see the old holes in the mast behind the bail)

[Doug Cameron]

Oops Pasting doesn't work like it used to. Hee is the URL:

[MisterMoon]

I've decided to go with heavy duty stainless rivets and also install a second eye strap an inch or so below the originals as spares.

[Alan Stewart]

We did exactly the same "bail" method as Doug but with two eyes (one on each side) connected by a bail of 1/4" dyneema line.

[Dale Niemann]

Hey Alan. Can we see a photo of your bail method with the eyes and line?

thanks,

dale

[Ray Frechette Jr]

48 replies on snotter attachments onan aluminum mast??? Really? oops, 49 now....

[Hirilonde]

48 replies on snotter attachments onan aluminum mast?

Once we get this worked out we will move on to halyard block attachment

[Doug Cameron]

Here is the actual picture. The angle on the block was all wrong with this, so I have ordered swivel blocks. Alan's solution (as usual) is more elegant.

snotter.jpg by Capt Doug, on Flickr

[Gordy Hill]

Now ya see all the complications y'all have since you decided to go with the sail track instead of a sleeve luff?

I lashed a D-ring to the mast with 1/8 inch dacron line and it looked nice and neat. I snapped the snotter on, cleated it lower on the mast and was rigged. When the sail is rolled up the D-ring just folds against the mast. When there is no load on the snotter the ring, lashings, and all can be slid up or down to adjust for sail shape.

[Doug Cameron]

So, Gordy, how do you reef?

[MisterMoon]

No need to ever reef the sleeved sails on CS17. They aren't big enough as it is! (ducking and running)

I've been wishing for a set of fat-head sails for my boat. The stock 'racing' sails are seriously underpowered under about 8 knots. I can't imagine it with the no-batten, convex leech, sleeved sail option, at least in my home waters. More power!