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okcracoke 20 in nz


nzlance

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Having balls that dont work can be a real problem Gordy......... :D I was always intending on putting what we call 'bungs' here in NZ....... basically screw in drain plugs. All boats have to have them. Its weather or not to cut in scupper holes at floor level (around 4 inchs above w/l) to allow water to drain while boat is at sea. I looked at one way valves etc....including the ball type one which is prone to jambing open from cockpit debris. Are they really needed? I owned an Australian built Quintrex alloy boat back in 2005. with 3 men standing at the back of the boat fishing ,the one way valves let water in. The boats floor was not watertight so the water got down into the underfoor compartments with ease...relying on the bilge pump or being drained out once back on shore. It was quite scary to see how much water got in over the course of a day....in flat calm conditions. The boat was sold.

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The storage areas have been glassed then have rolled on a couple coats of pigmented resin. Keeping the inside of the hull clean during the planking stage has really payed dividens. The cabin section is going to be sheathed in 4mm ply for a nice clean look but the cockpit sides will be exposed apart from gunnel tops and storage shelves.

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Lids glued down and ready for hot coating.The footwell will be sheathed with glass up to the top of the bunks.

From here I will begin forming the forward gunnels so the cabin structure can begin to take shape.

Lids glued down and ready for hot coating.The footwell will be sheathed with glass up to the top of the bunks.

From here I will begin forming the forward gunnels so the cabin structure can begin to take shape.

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Fantasic work. I am new to this forum, but I am considering building an Outer Banks 20 which has the same basic hull as theOkcracoke 20. Your pictures will be very helpful as well as most interesting.

Am I wrong, or have you only been working on this boat for around 7 months. It took me 2 1/2 years to build a 15' sawn frame, plywood runabout! Do you have any idea how many hours you have spent to date?

Glad I found your posts.

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Thankyou for the kind words guys. Could not say exactly how many hours I spend on the boat. A couple each night after my son has gone to bed, plus a few on the weekends when I get a chance. but it all adds up I guess. Sounds silly, but a large chunk of time is spent just being out in the shed not actually building, but looking at things from certain angles and thinking about how you are gonna attack the next stage. So when you are building time isnt wasted on trial and error. A cold beer really helps this process.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been away for awhile. You have made great progress, the boat looks great.

Regarding being in the shed but not building, you are very right.

Even with my small kayak projects, a lot of time is spent sitting and working through next steps in your mind.

Sometimes you just walk around the boat running your hands along the lines of the project. It is all part of the joy of building a boat.

And yes, beer goes very well with this step!

Keep up the great work and postings

David

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey thankyou Scott pretty happy with things so far. Sorry for long delay in reply but been away for a bit.....in USA of all places, now back and looking forward to getting going again. Had plenty of time with a sketch pad to nut out a few design details..... cabin shape, transom lockers, side storage shelves etc.

Hopefully all the grand ideas will be put into practice.

And yes Skott the filleting in the cabin is the same as the planking. West Systems with 411. I ground down the end of a putty knife to a nice even radius to make the big fillets on the interior. Works a treat.

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Starting to form the cabin structure. Will have to get a windscreen built from a production boat so I can get the curve of the cabin top to match bottom of the screen. Also heavily glassed the inside of the anchor well. This will be lined with 9mm ply and glassed again on the inside to protect the timber from the chain and to provide overall strength to this part of the hull. A stainless u-bolt will be drilled through the stem before the well is formed.

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It sure looks great, Lance! I've got to wonder though, what all of that structure is going to weigh. Our fearless designer is known for the efficiency of his designs, partly because he keeps structure light. I wonder if your boat won't be pushed down a bit on her lines. However, she sure looks beautiful, and if you can keep it balanced, I'm sure she will perform well.

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Yes hargrave adding the cabin structure has deffinatly added weight and it is my biggest concern. I have tryed my best to keep cabin seats and cabin itself as simple (therefore lite) as possible. But you have to remember it wont have the stainless steel canopy structure - although the cabin and windscreen will weigh more than a cc helm.

Keeping the boats lines is also a very big issue......... I have spent days trying to get the shapes and proportions right. You cant just go express style because there is not enough hight in the bow area so a cabin has to be added, meaning you need a hatch..... within a certain distance of the anchor well so the anchor can be retrieved without having to climb out on the bow. The windscreen is a curved wrap around item that will match the curve of the cabin and the length of the side wings. Keeping the whole thing balanced is my no.1 priority.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Installed fuel tanks, 2 x 25 gallon tempo plastic items. Things took a little longer as the front tank had to be sent to a plastic welder to have the fuel inlet and breather pipe bent over 90 degrees to give the fuel inlet pipe clearance under the floor. Things are still pretty tight but should be ok. The plywood around the tanks has been fully fibre glassed and while I was at it I added another layer of 10 oz double bias to the entire chine area ..... this is 3 layers on the inside now, I know it adds weight but I dont want this join to crack as the chines are quite wide towards the stern and there is no chine log to support the area where the bottom of hull meets the sides. In other words this part of the boat receives a hiding.

polystyrine flotation was added to all the compartments (not around fuel tanks though) and was held up off the bottom of hull to allow any moisture to track back via limber holes to bilge. The fuel tanks themselves have been cleated into position .... front , back and sides. Sika adhesive was used on bottom of tank to bed it into position. Cleats still have to be added to hold the tank down before the floor is to be glued down. The 2 grey wires you see beside fuel pipes are draw wires for the fuel gauge senders. The boat will be sent to a marine electrician for wiring out, the last thing I want is a botched wire job right on top of 200 litres of gas.post-1597-0-33429000-1332838755_thumb.jpgpost-1597-0-26423300-1332838777_thumb.jpgpost-1597-0-19006100-1332838798_thumb.jpgpost-1597-0-90571600-1332838832_thumb.jpgpost-1597-0-06688600-1332838858_thumb.jpgpost-1597-0-40830600-1332838879_thumb.jpg

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