hargrave

There were sections on the Pooduck that were a tough bend, and took some real convincing. 3/8" (or the equivalent in mm.) does not like a sharp bend. The meranti certainly did not split, however. Okoume would probably adapt to the curves better. I built a kayak out of the stuff, (1/4") and it was very flexible. Almost floppy in comparison. To reiterate, I prefer meranti, but okoume is more flexible, and it looks better finished. Just keep it dry with a well thought out finishing plan that will reliably block water engress.

Please. One of the reasons I come here is because we avoid politics. So can we continue to avoid politics?

Longevity matters. Meranti is moderately rot resistant. Okoume seems to have little resistance to rot, at all. If you build with okoume, seal with something like CPES. Which, of course, adds weight.

I built a Joel White Pooduck out of that stuff. Short answer; I liked it. The faces were ok, but not great. If you looked closely, you could find putty where the grain was rough. I would not mind finishing it bright, but don't expect a show stopper. Okoume just looks better. I ripped plank after plank for the boat, and never encountered a void. I learned to wear gloves, though. It is splintery stuff. Also heavier and stiffer than okoume. However, I have seen it easily outlast okoume up here in the northeast in a little experiment that I ran outside for a couple of years. No contest, really. But if you maintain a barrier, either with paint or varnish, either is long lived. I'm used to the stuff, now. My next boat will be built with the meranti.

I built a Pooduck with meranti. The strakes are 3/8(forget the mm) and the garboard has a lot of curve to it up in the bow. It took some convincing, but it did not crack and held it's shape well. I would definitely use meranti again- unless I win the lotto and can afford sapele. One thing; meranti demands a sharp, sharp new blade, whether on the bandsaw, skil saw, jig saw or table saw. Bosch makes some great jig saw blades that reduce tearout on both sides. Meranti splinters a lot. Wear gloves.

We need pics!

I don't have a lot of experience, however... It seems to me that just as important as the species is the individual pieces of lumber. Wild grain, pitch pockets, or just sawing incorrectly for the piece needed can compromise any lumber. It might be best not to limit yourself to Boulter's. There are plenty of good mills around. I would pass on the red oak for durability reasons. If you choose ash it had better be well protected. I would have suggested mahogony(sp?) as another option. I'm sure more seasoned builders will chime in soon.

This deserves a bump. Many of us have enjoyed this build, and we want Lance to continue. Somebody please help him figure out how to post more pictures!

It sure looks great, Lance! I've got to wonder though, what all of that structure is going to weigh. Our fearless designer is known for the efficiency of his designs, partly because he keeps structure light. I wonder if your boat won't be pushed down a bit on her lines. However, she sure looks beautiful, and if you can keep it balanced, I'm sure she will perform well.

Hey Lance, a common solution to your self draining floor up here in Maine is to drill holes sized for rubber plugs that cam shut. They have a lever that squeezes them when flipped, making them larger, plugging the hole. These can be purchased in the US at any decent boat shop, and are common equipment on dinghys, aluminum skiffs, etc.I presume you have them in NZ as well. When you get to the boat, you install the plugs, preventing water from entering while you are using the boat. At the end of the day, you remove them, allowing rain to flow out of the boat. They are so common here, that I always assumed that anyone building this boat would install them without a second thought. I certainly plan to. I haven't looked, but I am sure that both West Marine and Defender carry them. You probably already know about these. Hope this helps.

Thanks a bunch, NZ Lance! I hope one day to build one of these, so I am examining all of your photos very closely. 50 gallons of fuel going to a 115 horse engine suggests tremendous range and endurance. Have you crunched any numbers? It just seems like a lot of gas. Keep up the good work! A fellow builder from Maine.

It is best to remember that even six inches more of wl in a dink is a big, big deal. Measure the situation, then build accordingly.