EC 22

[Joe Anderson]

I am looking for some feedback on portlight placement.

Do you have the portlight follow the line of the cabin roof or the deck or something in between? When sitting in the cabin your eye level is close to the roof line. Does it look OK to fudge the light up a little or should it be centered between the roof line and deck?

The deadlight in the front I am even more uncertain about. How do you come up with size, proportion, shape that looks good with the lines of the boat? Do I need a little more curve on the top, a little more slope to the sides?

Here is the portlight moved aft a couple of inches.

Thanks for looking.

[wkisting]

Joe,

Are you painting the exterior cabin sides and roof white? If so, I don't think it will even be visually noticeable if you fudge the portlights upward a little toward the roofline. In the pics as shown, I can tell that the portlight is slightly above the centered position, but only because I can see the seam of the roofline so easily. When painted white, I bet it would be almost impossible to tell. For that reason, I'd probably err slightly on the high side since you said that will meet your eyeline better.

As for forward/aft placement, I think that looks fine too. But you'll want to think about where you will sit inside and also double-check if there are any internal beams that may interfere with the window cut-outs (which I'm sure you've probably already considered).

Wes

[Joe Anderson]

The cabin top will be white. The sides will be a sort of grey. Same color used below the boot top in this photo.

I vaguely recall Graham suggesting that I should extend the roof color down over the seam a wee bit.

So there will definitely be a roof line visible

I should undoubtedly trust or learn to trust my sense of aesthetics but it is very nice to have a little assurance before I cut holes in the cabin.

I posted some photos of the interior which ended up on the preceeding page so check them out if you missed them.

[Gordy Hill]

She looks great Joe!

Here in Florida I think I'd go with a larger portlight...as big as you can fit. Just my $.13 (adjusted for inflation.)

[Hirilonde]

Do you have the portlight follow the line of the cabin roof or the deck or something in between?

If the horizontal (or near horizontal) lines of a boat are very close to each other, I think they look best parallel. If you have several lines, all viewed from the beam that can not be parallel, I think they look best if they appear to converge at some point, be it far forward of the boat itself.

When sitting in the cabin your eye level is close to the roof line. Does it look OK to fudge the light up a little or should it be centered between the roof line and deck?

There is beauty in function. If it works it can look good. If it doesn't work, it will never look good.

The deadlight in the front I am even more uncertain about. How do you come up with size, proportion, shape that looks good with the lines of the boat? Do I need a little more curve on the top, a little more slope to the sides?

Yes

P.S. Don't think you have to decide now. The ports could be cut in as one of the last things when there is more other stuff to look at to help decide what looks best.

[Joe Anderson]

Gordy

I went with portlights similar in size to Skimmers, but I see your point. I did install a hatch in part for ventilation when I make it down to your latitude.

Dave

I like that very much. Lines converging in the distance. Sounds like something from art class or physics. A nice principle to help bring order to the chaos.

I have been tempted to jump ahead to something fun like installing the portlights, but I'll go back to framing in the coaming.

See ya

[Joe Anderson]

Starting to fit the deck. I understand that the deck to inwale epoxy joint should be backed up with mechanical fasteners.

What are the fasteners of choice?

I have some 3/4 bronze ring shank nails.

They are fast to apply and the flat head lays flush without crushing too much plywood.

I also have some #8 flat head screws.

What is a good spacing between fasteners?

[PinoyPiper]

I used 3/4 ring shank nails, spaced 3/12 inches apart.

Starting to fit the deck. I understand that the deck to inwale epoxy joint should be backed up with mechanical fasteners.

What are the fasteners of choice?

What is a good spacing between fasteners?

[Joe Anderson]

I spoke with Graham and he clarified the need to augment the epoxy deck to hull joint. He said the failures he has seen have been only in the very bow. He suggested adding mechanical fasteners for the first 6 inches or so where the deck must bend over a short span. After that it is optional.

So I may just clamp the deck down with straps or temporary screws and save my nails.

[Joe Anderson]

I would really like to take Skorpa with me to Vandemere Oct. 28. Lots and lots to do and I am beginning to think that the only downhill will be at the ramp.

Most of the deck is on except for a piece in the bow.

The top section of both masts are hollow wooden spars sheathed with carbon.

The birdsmouth spars have gone very well so far. Thanks in large part to tips and advice from Charlie Jones and Graham.

Dry fit in the jig.

Main is glued up the mizzen has been 16 sided.

Mizzen is ready for carbon.

Back to work.

[Hirilonde]

I like the PVC section with wedges idea for a clamp. Yankee ingenuity at work. Looking good Joe

[Joe Anderson]

Charlie described putting a PVC hoop on one end of the staves and then going down to the other end and giving the whole thing a shake until the staves worked their way into place. I was concerned about smearing the epoxy or damaging an edge so I went for the more controlled one piece at a time approach. It worked for my 10 foot spar. I think Charlie might have been doing something longer.

[Joe Anderson]

I had a few questions about the bowsprit tube so I called Graham and he answered my questions and as he often does he also gave me a little trick to make the job go easier.

Getting the hole cut in the hull in the right place, with the right shape is a little tricky.

Here is Graham's helpful tip.

Locate the point 6 feet forward of the bow where the tip of the bowsprit should be.

Determine where on the forward bulkhead the base of the bowsprit sits.

Using your best judgement drill a hole through the hull in line with those two points.

Now run a string from the tip location through the hole to the base.

Move the hole until the string is straight and you have the center of the necessary opening in the hull.

I used the same trick to determine the forward and aft points of the opening.

I used a variety of methods to draw the outline of the opening, but knowing for certain the center point was critical to doing a reasonable job.

I am not sure if you will find a use for this trick, but I thought it was pretty cool.

[Joe Anderson]

I was not able to get my boat ready in time to go to the Mess About. I have however made considerable progress.

I installed the bowsprit tube and the foredeck.

Then we went outside for a coat of primer.

I managed a top coat in the cockpit before the wet weather moved in.

This is my idea for bonding the lower aluminum mast sections. These are then connected to the keel strip as part of a lightning system.

The masts then got a coat of paint. Thin as possible.

[paul_stewart]

Joe,

She's a beauty! [remove drool from keyboard] Great work! Thanks for sharing those photos! I like following your blog posts too.

Are there any small projects/parts you'll be taking with you to work on during the winter? You know; hand-carved cup holders for example? (kidding)

--Paul

[Joe Anderson]

Funny you should mention cup holders.

One of my boat dreams is to be sailing gently across a bay sipping on my morning coffee as the sun rises and slowly lifts the mist from the water. My plan though is to outfit the boat very simply and put a few miles behind me before adding any accessories.

I think it works best for me to close up the boat shop and get busy with tasks in Virginia. I am afraid if I spend any time on boat projects in Virginia I will be crazy to get back up here and finish Skorpa and get her on the water.

Thanks for appreciating the blog. It is a little like watching grass grow or a flower bloom pretty cool. Time lapse photograph is a big help.

Joe

[Joe Anderson]

Actually there are a few small projects that are in the background. Every once in awhile I start thinking about how I am going to fix that cup of java. I want the ability to cook simple hot meals aboard. I looked back through the blog of Dawn Patrol. I thought you had a section about preparing meals but I couldn't find it.

This is a photo of Skorpa's galley/navigation table.

My MSR whisperlite has served me faithfully for many years even melting the lead for the centerboard, but I am thinking about not inviting it into the cabin. I thought I wanted a pressurized alcohol stove, but I don't think they are made any more. Kenyon? Something like the Origo seems a bit much for my little set up, as does the Force 10. I thought of adapting a propane single burner camping stove. I am considering building a small box that would contain the stove, fuel bottle and a means of stabilizing the pot. To be used at anchor or underway in very calm conditions. I want some way of securing the box to the galley table or out in the cockpit.

Surfing I came across this photo from Travis Votaw's Pilgrim.

Ideas for cooking arrangements and stoves onboard are welcome.

[PeterP]

Joe, looking good my friend. For two ring stove check out REI - they carry a stainless version of Coleman portable stove that is probably what you need. Runs off 16oz propane cartridge which need changed often - I grant you- but some people consider that a safety plus. If the flame goes out while you are steering -your boat does not fill with a huge quantity of gas looking for a spark. No oven - so you'll have to make your scorpa at home. Regards PeterP

[Gordy Hill]

Joe,

I had a Sea Swing stove with mounts in the cabin and on the aft cabin bulkhead in the cockpit. It worked great. Forspar makes a nice one.

http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-gimballed-stove-mini-galley.shtml

[Joe Anderson]

I found the Century two burner stainless stove at REI. Looks nice and I would not have to build anything but way to big and heavy for me.

The Forespar looks interesting but I don't think I want a gimballed stove. If the boat is healed that much I won't be doing any cooking.

You may think I have gone off the deep end but, I have been wondering if I could adapt a Trangia alcohol stove to work for me.

Ihttp://www.trangia.se/english/5614.27_series_ul.html