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almost done, cs17


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Beautiful job Jan,

I think the sheer stripe and rubbing wale add a lot to the visual impact of the boat, and seems to create "lift" in the sheer. I noticed that too on the boat Ray built for Phil Milinski (sp?), the one with the nice photos  from Maine. You've also done a bristol job of fitting out the interior. Good, yacht quality construction.

Time to go sailing!

Jim Luton

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thanks again. low res internet images are wonderfully adept at hiding the host of gnarly imperfections that i spend hours staring at every day. my reputation would shatter at the first live viewing by any of you guys, believe me.

by the way, anybody got a link to those images of ray's cs that jim mentions?

edit: holy smokes, i just looked at jim 'crickets' wood working website!! i'm going back to school..

jan

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Those are solid spars, glued up from 3/4" stock.

I rigged the boat like a more traditional craft, along the lines of what Oughtred suggests in his fine book. The Core Sound can, in my opinion, end up looking a little too modern with her hard chined hull, aluminum masts and SS components. Which is fine off course, if that's what you like, especially for those sailors aiming for speed and performance.

And to Ray: I have plans and materials for a Gannet sitting in a corner of the shop.

Anyway here's a bunch more pics:

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7.jpg

width=370 height=650http://www.fivenineclimber.com/images/boats/cs17/8.jpg[/img]

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Wow....   Oooooooooooo....    Aaaaaaaaaaaa....    well done!    Thanks for sharing the photos.  Wouldn't mind seeing even more.  It's wonderful to see your art and craftsmanship shining through in this very traditional treatment of the CS17 design.  The traditional treatment is an eye-opener.   

What kind of finish is on the spars and wooden rigging parts?   Oil?   Varnish?   What is your method and intention regarding water flowing over the hatches (try to make them waterproof;  make the storage spaces be self-draining;  no worries --dry the hatches after sailing) ?      Have a close-up photo of the closures for the seat-hatches?   Are the floor-boards (easily) removable?    Does the tiller rotate up?    - - -Just curious!   Thanks.

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Guest wwbaginski

Jan, my congratulations. Let me ask you a question about reefing your sails. They 're laced, on the other hand they have kind of a  reefing line (with no reefing ropes) easy to recognize. Are you going to reef your sail while laced, or are you going to use a rail with gliders in future? Plea

Thanks a lot for such beautyful and useful photo report.

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Paul: The tiller swings up out of the way. The floorboards are screwed down in a semi permanent fashion, but with a generous spacing so dropped items are readily retrieved and cleaning is facilitated. I used oil/pine tar/turpentine on all wood and some shellac on the blocks and various other places. The hatches are sealed with foam rubber gaskets and have latches that engage positively. They don't leak. Yet.

wwbaginski: The sails don't reef easily under demanding conditions. Haven't figured that one out yet. But on the beach, while rigging, it is comparatively easy to choose a reefed set-up if needed.

Here's a sales pitch I've been posting in various places. Some of it might be of interest to you all:

Core Sound 17 for sale in the Pacific Northwest.

Hi all, here's a brand new Core Sound 17, sailed just once (so far). Our location is near Lake Chelan, about 4 hours northeast of Seattle in Washington state.

I'm asking $11000 ready to sail as pictured. This does not include trailer or oars, but both are available. The price is somewhat lower than various East Coast boats, but given my far and distant location from those builders I hardly feel like I'm undermining the market. Plus my patience with painting is rather low, so maybe this Core Sound is a little rougher around the edges.

I'm an amateur building boats in my spare time. This one was put together over the last 2 years as the subject of a series of articles for Small Craft Advisor, but I never intended to keep it, and will most likely not build another one. The plans were followed to the teeth where it mattered, while lots of free form ideas crept in during the later stages, some elaborate enough to add weeks to the project!

The good old stitch and glue hull is comprised of the usual materials: Okoume 1088 marine plywood and System 3 epoxy products. All hull ply joints are scarphed. Most of the structural members, trim and other visible wood are Douglas fir, including the masts. The latter are of solid construction, glued up with 5 laminations of 3/4" stock.

The side benches are topped with laid strips of solid wood, caulked with a graphite/epoxy mix. This provides good friction for slippery feet and butts, besides the esthetic gains of less painted surfaces. The coaming is laminated Doug fir. Inside the transom on the port side are reinforcements for an outboard bracket. All hatches are secured with positive latches and foam rubber seals. The floorboards are screwed down in a semi permanent fashion, but with a generous spacing so dropped items are readily retrieved and cleaning is facilitated. An Andersen bailer is installed for better or worse. The tiller swings up out of the way if needed.

The rig of this CS17 is far more traditional than normally seen on other boats, with almost entirely shop made components. This can be a drawback for some, if performance is the number one concern, but the simplicity and durability of these tried and tested methods are well documented. Everything can be field maintained with common tools. Rope stropped blocks are silent and tough. 3 strand ropes feel good and splices easily. And it is all so much fun to make.

I also sewed the sails here in the shop, using 4 oz dacron and a professional machine. They have double stitched panel seams and classic cut tablings. All the hardware is brass. There's a leech cord and hefty corner patches and reef points. They came out good, judging from the one test sail we've had.

Finishes include painted hull, deck and cockpit with System 3 water borne epoxy coatings, and oil/pine tar/turpentine saturation of bare wood. No varnish is used anywhere, a fact that should make the sale right there! I used oil based house paint inside the bulkheads and waterproof compartments.

So what worked out and what didn't?

The hull is fair and smooth, better than anything I've done before. The scarphs are just barely visible in low angle lighting but can't be felt. The chines are straight and consistent. On the decks, on the other hand, are a few unsightly dips that missed the fairing compound. Also the epoxy coating and some of the fillets inside the cockpit are a bit rough, likewise with the overall appearance of the paint job.

Most of the woodworking is of high standard. The centerboard case have nicely fitted bedlogs, instead of tape, and the laid bench tops look splendid.

The rig worked out real well, with nicely proportioned cleats and blocks and cool ropework. The mast are relatively straight, but a little bumpy due to difficult flat grain in places.

Please contact me with any questions or comments or requests for more detailed photos.

jan"at"coyotecottage.com or 509 429 2196

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Jan :o  Outstanding workmanship and detail, along the line I would like to go with our CS 20.  I am curious, no jealous of your imagination, and I absolutely need to know how you made the benches look planked, the thickness of the floor boards and forward bench boards.  It all looks like you used fir, how far apart are the floor board supports?  How are the boards attached?  Water tightness of the various hatches?  Thanks for the information

Jim

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Jan, I'm inspired by your beautiful work!  My question is regarding your hardware: did you make the cleats and blocks yourself? I especially like the looks of the cheek block on your mast. If you purchased them, then from where?

OK, I'm off to my shop to git goin' on my 17 now, Thanks for the push!

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thanks everbody for the praise and enthusiasm. i most say that low-res internet pics are wonderfully adept at hiding the legion of mistakes and blemishes that, in reality, adorns this boat. i'm still learning.

jim: the benchtops have 1/8" strips epoxy glued to the plywood base, held in place with screws until dry. the screw pattern was carefully designed so when they were removed and the holes filled it would look decent. also the pattern of the strips took some mock-up trial and error style attention before committing. i di it all on the bench before gluing the whole thing into the boat. the grooves are filled with an epoxy/graphite mix.

the floorboards are resawn 3/4" stock, so whatever is left after that whole operation is the thickness. 1/4" maybe? the support cleats are 3/4" x 3/4" and spaced a foot apart, i think. the forward bench boards are a little thicker, since for that job i resawed 2x stock into 3 pieces. it is all fir. see previous post for attachment and hatc integrity.

sukie: the blocks, cleats, cheek blocks and other hardware are all shopmade. even the sheaves. the stropped blocks are made with rope grommets, a loop of cord seemingly without an end or beginning. real cool stuff to tinker with at night instead of surfing. the wood used is regrettably an unknown species, salvaged from a scrap pile. it is very hard, with an orange like smell when cutting. super oily too.

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Jan, I was born from Spokane,WA, moved to Tacoma when I started HS.  Went on my first sub there and knew I waould be a submariner.  5 Years on subs and 9 years in the Navy.  Fell in love with sail boats in Tacoma, 3 years in Sea Scouts.  Your work in spite of what you think is amazing and the creative approach you've taken to create the benches and deck are awasome.  DO NO DISCOUNT your wotk, you should sell in Seattle for $16,000 or better, believe me you have created a masterpiece in this boat.  I know your lake are are in Chalean (sp), one of my best friends was raised there, Floyd Webb and family, havent seen him or talk for years, but is the best of persons and his wife Jan was always awesome.  Keep up the good work and keep the faith, you have a gift.  I recently found some 25 year old fir and I will be modeling your boat in many ways.  Hope to fine some brass fittings that will be used to model some of you fittings.  Charlies is right, I have built a few pieces of furniture and I always see the flaws, carved walking sticks with horse heads and other details, told worth $400 to $500 each, do not discount your work.  Yes I gave the walking sticks away for nothing, proud of the work but I saw what I thought were flaws.  Your boat may have some but few people can creat such a full and complete thing of beauty, believe me.  I have the same struggle with my water paintings, I don't think they measure up and I have a lot of folks who see more in them than I do, trust me, you have a gift.  The greatest gift of creating a thing is the starting and the working thought it to fruition, the finish is always the disapointmnt, because we we ALWAYS see our flaws and inperfections, get over it, you have created a beautiful work of art.  I pray and hope you use your giftsit for your family AND you can satisfaction in find fulmet in this in your life.  You will bless yourself, your wife and your children with your continued effort. What an amazing gift a father can give to his wife and children.  What and amazing gift a husband and wife can share.  My bride of 26 years have had such gifts in our making of funiture, my painting, and now our building of the CS 104 Marriahh (name of the wind, changed the spelling a bit).  Blessings and the love of Christ to you and yours, thank you for sharing the gift and your work.  I will many questions in the near future, and you work has inspired me to move forward with our dream.  ( Maybe mine but wife Karen has been infected I think).  Again, thank YOU for your gift and inspiration to us ALL.  Keep up the great work we all loo forward to your next project.  Enjoy your family and a most amazing lake and community.

God's Gift to YOU and Yours

Jim Atkinson

CS 20 104

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