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Lapwing


Tom Lathrop
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Tom

She's a beauty!  I have still been unable to sell my CS17 so I will have to wait to start building a Lapwing.  Now that our sailing season is starting hopefully someone buys my boat.  A couple of people have come close to doing so - so just have to wait for the right person.  In the meanwhile I am honing up my woodworking skills building a steel string guitar - helping my attention to detail.

Hope to see more photos from the messabout and hear some descriptions of how she handles in the water.  Inspirational build.

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Hi Tom

A question.  I notice you don't have a bow roller for the anchor.  How do you plan to drop and retrieve the anchor.  I see how you have it stowed in the front just inside the hatch cover.  Will you just let it out over the side and retrieve it in the same way (cleating it off on the post up forward)

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Folks you ain't seen anything quite so nice, both in the workmanship and the overall design!!! I swam and hunkered down close to the boat today but was also glad that I was over a block away with my mess too. It would not have been a pretty contrast. :'( As  a side note, I cannot remember when such a diverse collection ever gathered in one spot, with several hulls there almost 100 years old in pristine shape. Sorry no pictures, but some of you guys are in for a real treat if you are attending next week's get together.

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Tom,

What a job!  She's gorgeous.  I've been following the lapwing project from the beginning and have even created my own slide show from your pics.  You may have provided me the inspiration to attempt to build a lapstrake boat.  I've been thinking about the CS 15 or 17 and may now do the lapwing - we'll see.

Just curious - will you have to put ID number on the boat and if so, where?  I'd say what a shame to mar such a beaut with numbers and letters.  Oh, well...

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  • 1 year later...

It's 0.090 stainless from the scrap dealer.  Cut out on the bandsaw (it's really easy to cut stainless, even easier than mild steel).  Then it's sanded smooth with several grits, polished first with wire wheel and finally with a burnishing wheel  or pad.

I actually enjoy a bit of metalworking in addition to wood.  A bit of a cheat since most everyone thinks it looks so hard to do.  I often make pieces of hardware this way.

To cut stainless:

Clean out the saw really well to prevent the molten sparks from causing a fire.

Fit an old fine tooth blade in the bandsaw.  1/2" is good.  Can be dull, sharp or whatever, makes no difference.  When you are finished, the blade shows almost no change.

Set the guides just an inch above the work.  Just enough so you can see the cut.

Press the stainless HARD against the blade and it starts to burn its way immediately along the path you guide it.  It doesn't really cut the metal but burns a kerf.  It does get hot so gloves are sometimes needed.  Finish the edges with grinders or files.

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