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Lapwing


Tom Lathrop

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Here a couple more photos of Lapwing.  The keel and stem was laminated over the hull and then taken off for shaping. Second coat of epoxy on.  I mounted a couple of old trailer rollers on the mold and made a rough socket for the trailer dolly to make moving by one person easy and rolled the boat outside to get a good look for the first time. 

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Dale,

I laid a strip of polyethlene on the boat and then put on the straighter part of the keel in two layers with the forward end staggered to accept the thinner laminates.  These were about 3/16" thick and laid on the second day.  I used some finish nails and a couple drywall screws over washers to hold things in place for cure.  Not very elegant but worked ok and allowed taking the keel off to shape it more easily off the boat.  Less chance to scar the hull that way. 

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Finally finished building bookcases and lockers for the county youngsters rec center and back to Lapwing.  Got a coat of primer on and am ready to turn her over after I make a dolly to rest her bones on.

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Masked area on the sheer strakes near the bow is for trailboards.  The trailer dolly in the photo makes moving around much easier.

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No fiberglass and I don't plan on doing any on this boat.  I will probably put on a couple of rub strips at the turn of the bilge for protection later.  The masking is 2mil plastic.  The reason for priming now was to find the little voids that hide under edge of the laps.

If I had decided to add any sheathing I would have covered the garboard and second strake with Xynole cloth which would conform to the laps which glass will not.

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Lapwing is slowly gaining more structure.  The small ply sections are side tank bulkheads to define the lockers.  The plan calls for only one bulkhead in each side tank.  I deviate a bit from the plan because I like to be able to reach all parts of these lockers easily.  I will not include a sealed tank at the transom since I like an open transom. Most builders will add or change some things to suit their individual tastes. 

I would not change anything critical to performance because I trust Graham to have that well worked out.  That said, some things learned in beta versions will find the way into his plans before any are sold to the public.  Not many other designers go to that length and many initial errors or problems continue in plans for years.

Lapwing is more traditional than the other small boat designs that Graham has offered.  We stick to the basic interior arrangement because it has proven superior in many ways to others.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Really nice!  The curving cockpit (tank) sides make for nice lines, but I expect they make the build harder than the straight sides of the CS.  The lift-up floorboards I have can be moved fore and aft to any position due to the constant width of the cockpit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is an update.  I made the thwart seats of mahogany cut in about 3" pieces and glued back together for more stability .  Next will be to cut out the hatch openings.

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One of the onerous tasks in making a mast tube is getting the @#&** thing off the base mast after the epoxy sets up. 

Problem solved :)  After some head scratching, I came up with the idea shown in the next photo.  Cut some narrow (about 1" wide) strips of 6 mil or thicker plastic and tape them around the mast tube in barrel stave fashion.  Make sure they are longer than the final tube by several inches.  Then wrap sheet plastic as normal and lay up the glass cloth.  I used one layer of heavy glass roving between layers of 6oz cloth to bulk the tube up faster.  Then a spiral wrapped layer of 3-4" plastic was added to squeeze the tube up a bit.

The jig shown holds the mast tube up off the plastic covered table to make rolling the fiberglass sleeve on easier.

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After setting up, the tape is removed from the ends of the inner plastic strips and they are pulled out, one by one.  At this point the fiberglass tube was easily slid off with only hand pressure.  A far cry from the banging, pulling, jerking and cursing previously needed to dislodge the miserable thing.

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Tom has come up with great method for being able to get the mast tube off of the mast easily and I will use that method from now on. The one point that he did not stress enough is to make the plastic about 3" longer at each end than the tube. The tape that holds the plastic in place is outside of the tube and not covered so that the tape can be removed first allowing the plastic staves to be removed one at a time. This gives clearance between the mast and tube so that it can be easily slid off.

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