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I did a quick five minute job with no required beer for the guys. :wink: I use 1/2" steel eybolts, placed through the stem and through the stern at the keel area, use a chainfall at the stern, cherry picker at the bow, jack it up off the strongback, it rolls itself in the air, let back down gently, positioning it upright, and placing stiffeners at the corners, and walla, time to clean up the inside and do the framing and add the rest of the sides. It was almost dark, as I finished, so the upright will have to wait till tommorrow.

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Capt. Jake, I am not sure if the term stout means it looks heavy or not. The boat is surely not a plywood lamiated hull. But the bottom is cypress and the sides ae cedar. It is cross planked, so framing is kept to a minimum, requiring two false keelson and a main keel. The keel and general construction of the bow, makes the centerline what is known as a "boxed keel" allowing for a more stable beaching in shallow waters. If you take a look at the real old Sea Bright Skiffs from New Jersey, you will find a simular configuation on them, designed specifically for the shore landings and does the same thing. I think it you will read the book by Dave Gerr, it goes into this with some detail. There are two ways of doing this, but will not entertain this thought on this board or thread.

If you will also notice, the keel and the chine line is almost parrallel to each other, creating almost the same inches in deadrise midship and the bow. The reul parker shapies incorporate the shallow drafts but with a nice vee entry. But if you have followed the other thread, you will note that building the bow section with solid planking, to allow for this, has its drawbacks.

Stump asks about the sides being undone. I am a freak for using all avaliable product during construction, such as caulks and glues, that end up in access during construction. The short sides allows for me to clean up from underneath, from the cross planked seams, using it on the next plank, [please refer to my original thread], and also allow for me to work any throughtbolts, and needed hardware that requires nuts such as the skeg bolts. The clean up eliminates having to sand rubberized caulks, squeezed out of the seams when time come so do finish work.

This is very important when you are using epoxy with strip planking too. This lapse of preplanning will make for bloody knuckles too, when attempting to do the finish work inside.

I also fit the centerboard and work the deadwoods during the initial construction parts, saving me a lot of work after much is in place upon righting the hull. The sides are really nothing to fit at this stage. I can lean over into the bottom, eliminating the need to work from inside, or the back strain that you end up with, leaning over with a sander for prep work.

Most of this is just a hybrid construction method, that has evolved overtime with me, to save a lot of wrestling around timbers, requiring a lot of fittings for frames or parts, and actually helps cut hours of building.

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i guess ill throw my update into the mix.

our vacationer CEILI(kaylee) was launched july 3rd and my wife and i have been slowly improving our novice sailing skills on Narragansett Bay. its been great fun and the boat is very forgiving and perfect for learning to sail. our 10 yo daughter enjoys our sails and she is very proud of the boat, especially since it bears her name :)

http://byyb.org/pn/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/10049/normal_DSCF0078.JPG

http://byyb.org/pn/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/10049/normal_DSCF0009.JPG

http://byyb.org/pn/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/10049/normal_DSCF0018.JPG

http://byyb.org/pn/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/10049/normal_DSCF0009%7E1.JPG

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Well I have the wall panels stained and shellaced.

tn_040819_0458.JPG

I have built the jigs and mocked up a TRIAL tapered column for the front porch. Now I am ready to make the real ones out of the cypress sitting in my shop.

column1.jpg

I built the Craftsman mantles they wanted $150 each for the front doors. Out of scraps I might add.

04-08-15_0450.jpg

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I have the tile laid in the head and the galley. I am working on painting the doors now..... Oh wait, this was about boats! Well this is sort of about boats. Once I get the house fniished I can move in and start building my boat! 8)

If you want to see the progress on the Cullman Cottage you can go to

http://www.kudzupatch.com/craftsman/index.html

I am going to try to put up some new photos tonight. I am suffering from burnout and I am ready to do some fun projects. Like build a kayak, some shop furniture and start my sailboat.

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Looks good there Jeff! I really like the craftsman style. If I didn't have an un-educated engineer in my home (she is the CFO) I would have built my own like you. ;) ;) I love the details you are adding. :) :)

I laid 4 block light columns in the past two days. What a lot of work! They look pretty good, being as I have never laid a brick before. :) I figure i saved about $1500 be doing it myself. Not conventional brick mind you, I used the precast cobblestone pavers and veneered them to the existing columns. :) They are still big and heavy. Placed about 125 of them (not counting the matching path which was 100). :)

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Actually, what hurts teh worst is my fingers. I couldn't find my rubber concrete gloves, so I just went at it like I used to years ago. Mistake!! :roll: Finger tips are raw and very sore this AM. :(

Any Portland Cement based product (when mix with water) creats Calcium Hydroxide; very corrosive to the skin. :oops:

Only have the top finials to create, then I can put that project to bed. :)

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OUCH! Did that once.

I didn't realize that mortar was acidic. I have been laying ceramic tile in the house and that would explain a little. I don't handle the mortar that much but it does explain the slightly tender finger tips.

I installed a drain on our rear porch today. It's over the basement. The floor is cermic tile over the water proof membrane. That was a fun job!

I discovered (the hard way) that in a heavy blowing wind that enough water gets on the porch to run into the house. I wanted to get this in place before Ivan blows through, if it works in that it should work in anything! Assuming he makes it our way that is.

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I think I probably over post the progress of my Belhaven. Sometimes it seems to get a little slow on the forum and I just post an update. I hope you all will forgive me. I hope to have this boat done by June next year, but I think its going to take an act of God to do it.

When this boat is done I plan on building a spindrift or the 15 foot coresound.

As much as I hate winter it should give some extra building time.

Scott

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  • 2 weeks later...

boring update post that includes the recently epoxied MONDO wheel i built. I was going to use an oak steering shaft but think Roland's galvanized pipe idea is worth exploring....

now, i am back out to it...it was no warmer than 85 today...boat building weather....

a.

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Adla!!! Looking good. You are going to have a fine vessel when you get done. :D

I used a galvinized 1 1/2" with a floor flange for the wheel attachment, and end-cap with a hole drilled for the attachment to the transom. Much better that the first "hardwood-dowel-try-to-screw-three screws-into-the-end, lagscrew unscrewing thingy-ma-bob :) " But my wheel is butt ugly :x ! I will be making a new one this winter :) .

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