warthog5

If you suck down around the bit opening the whole router would be in a box where the dust is being sucked. That would be a No-No. Plus you wouldn't be able to make adjustments easy. The setup I have works great. As you can see there is a tool box incorperated in the unit. This fills the dead zone of sucking chips too. Here somemore detailed pix's. The box/plunim was made from melameane shelf boards they sell at the box stores.

The link above that Oyster posted is my boat. I alway's follow this imfo, no matter if it's plywood cored or PVC Foam cored. I don't want water intrusion int any type of core and as said above. It's to keep from the core compressing in Balsa or PVC. http://bertram31.com/proj/tips/sleeving.htm

Here's mine on a 3hp 220V Shop Fox. It has a layer of 3/4in marine ply [i had it] and a layer of 1/2in MDF. Both sides were covered in Formica. I built a plenum/ tool box that you will see in the pix's. I hung a 2 1/4hp Milwakee router in it. [/img]

Frank Is this just a pix software to orginize and play with the pix some or is it a webhost to upload pix's to? PhotoBucket has a lot to offer too. I recommend that one to a lot of folks. It's fast simple and free up to a certain number of pix's which I have maxed out. HeHe I'm a ginny pig on a FTTP program right now.

Alex You can't make post's like that and not include pix's.

This is one of the projects that I like to do. I see all kinds of problems in the pix's from the link. Besides the obvious corrosion. The wiring is shot. This is due to using automotive connectors that are open to the elements. Open ended connectors will get corosion in them. Heat shrink needs to have the glue in it. NO wire nuts! They are very subseptiable [sp?] to vibration and belong in a house, not a boat or car. Oh yes I'm anial about this.

I lost what Richard was saying about "I entered NIS options"? What's that?

Frank I use Norton System Works and Firewall. I think it;s simple and easy. I use Internet Exployer only to come to this forum. I get red X's no matter what I use on your icons all the time.

I don't buy anything that has properitory software. Most of the above mentioned name brands mentioned have it. That's all beside my point and the point I want to make is DO Not get caught up in the Free AOL that you payed for when buying one of thosed computers. AOL is Crap and teach's people the wrong way to use a computer. Get her a dial up service and install Netscape on the computer for her. I use a Eudura email software. It's simple and easy. AOL makes everything so hard. I know people that have had AOL for over 2yrs and still can't open a pix sent to them by email.

News flash. Dark colors show more flaws. This is a GREAT pix.

QUOTE: The nice thing about building a boat for yourself is that you're the final judge as to what's good enough. For me, just the thought of all that sanding urges a "working finish This is very true. Building the boat is half the battle. The other half is working to perfection in all the fairing and painting. Most all of you know what your boat's look like in person and on film. IE Pix's of them. Most of us only know what your boat looks like in the pix's. Funny thing about pix's. Either the pix's don't do the boat justice or they hide a lot. Now if you can see the flaws in the pix's, ah you need to work on it some more. I've seen a few. Paint it Black and it will tell on you in a Heart Beat. It's right or it isn't. Black is by no means for everyone, But it will show a Perfect hull or not. But then I'm a perfectionist.

QUOTE: Had to replace the bearings , switch, brushes and sanding pad. You too. I have on that the bearings locked up in. No time to fix. Down to the store and bought another one to finish the project.

Yep we catch them some out of Pensacola Pass. I don't eat 'em. I turn 'em loose.

I use a DA sander [RO sander] to go over the glass work with 80gt. Then the primer goes on, then a guide coat. No machine after that. It's all hand blocked with diffrent size blocks to fit the area.

Want your boat Stright? Don't touch it with a RO sander! Use a long board and hand sand. If it's gonn'a be Black IT Better be Stright. I've worked in aut body shops for about 15yrs.

After the 2000 election I was talking to my high school buddy on the phone up in Pa. I heard his daughter in the background. " Don't you people in Fl. know how to vote? I answered "Sure we do". It all those damn Yankee's that move down here to retire that have problems. HeHe

QUOTE: I tried to change the design to a honeycomb core but he was concerned about structural integrity. You were right on, but didn't have enough imfo to push the idea. Robert down a Dawson's Boat's in Pensacola.Fl. has built test panels and sent them out to the local test lab. The test lab has stoped charging him for testing, oh by the way. They have to much fun trying to tear his stuff up. He showed me some panels that were 3/4 Nidacore. He had Vacuum bagged a layer of 1808 and 1 1/2oz mat on both sides. He went to pickup the parts and get the report on what they found. They gave him all these test data numbers. He said OK what does that mean in Layman's terms? Can I put 30 people on this hardtop? [that would never happen] They said you can put 300 people on this hardtop. I didn't use any Nidacore in my Custom Mako, but I used Kledgecell and Divenacell.

Graybeard Wann'a save time, money and agrivation on the fairing? Buy some System 3's Quik Fair. Best place to get it is Haniliton Marine. Keep mixing your own and you will be chasing pinholes til the cows come home. http://www.hamiltonmarine.com/ Money well spent. You can sand it after about 6 to 8hrs, unstead of waiting overnight. You will need a digital postal scale to weigh it out. I use the Grams scale. It spreads like butter. It doesn't slump. It sands and featheredges easy. It's put in the containers under vacuum. Here's what it looks like.

Jake can you turn the 2nd one 90deg. I'm getting dizy trying to look at it.

Jake I'd like to see a side shot too. Look's Real Nice. The green/Gold stripe really set it off. You have good taste in colors and I'm picky. HeHe

I've just spent a considerable amount of time reserching a new compressor for my shop. I've been thinking about this for 1 1/2yrs, but I just started my reserch. Here's some things that I found if your thinking about buying one. 1st Bigger is better. It's better because your not limited down the road when you want to buy say a blast cabinet. They consume a LOT of air. Had you bought the smaller compressor and then deside on a blast cabinet. 2 things will happen. 1st you will be waiting around a long time for the air to catch up and blasting a short time. This makes the project take forever of blasting a part. Or you will be buying another compressor that is a bigger size. "Money Wasted"! My original compressor is a Black Max Sanborn. I got it from Sam's Club for around $400. It's a 60gal tank and single stage. Max preasure is 135PSI. It has given me good service for 12yrs, but it's real tired now. Having accumilated lot's of air tools over the years, I use it a lot. let's start with looking at the CFM of a compressor. Or better yet the advertised CFM. Now everyone should know what CFM is, but do you know what ACFM is? Then there is SCFM as a rating. After scratching my head and reading for another 6 to 8hrs I found this. ** This is Actual Cubic Feet per Minute air flow at 100 psi. Be aware some manufacturers list SCFM or "Free Air" CFM at pressure, which is not a true representation of actual air flow at pressure. Now the only compressor's I found that listed this was a Belair compressor. So what they are saying is at the very extreme you MAY get XYZ CFM. But if it is listed as ACFM. It has been tested and is a true output. Case in point of the compressor I picked. Belair model #218V. CFM is 18.59 ACFM @ 100PSI = 15.33 ACFM @ 175PSI = 13.75 So you can see a pretty fair persentage drop there. Now the Box store compressor's are listed as CFM or SCFM. This leads you to belive that they will put those volume's out and it's just not so. No one has a way to even test the CFM output at home. It run's your air tool or it doesn't. Now I found another thing wrong with HP ratings. Everyone has seen the HP rating stickers put on tool's. Like my Craftsman Shop Vac. 6.5HP. NO WAY. I found a class action Law suite aginst the companies that are mostly sold at the box store's. Campbell Hausfeld builds compressor's and label's them with diffrent names. The suite is over the HP ratings on these compressor's. The bottom line on this suite is the consumer lost! They got $50 and the lawer's won. No telling how much they got. http://www.aircompressorsettlement.com/notice.pdf I actuall ordered a Ingersoll-Rand as I alway's held them in high quality. I then did more reserch and cancelled the order. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44675 Look at the price of the Ingersoll-Rand. $849.99 Now look at this compressor for $899.00 http://www.menintools.com/compressor/ba218v.html Here is the spec sheet from Belair. http://www.industrial-air-compressors.com/specsheet.html It's a no Brainer

I sure am glad to see you getting something done, unstead of just driving around town all day. HeHe Ahhhhhhhh! The natural wood.

Sorry My mistake. My eyes are real tired. Forget what I said. Rudder Box. Doha! Not Rubber Box.

Yes. http://www.systemthree.com/p_st_quikfair.asp

A rubber Box? Sounds like a good waste of epoxy to me. Never mind the mixing of the stuff wrong and the box falling in the grass. Why didn't you glue some wood scraps together?