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Posted

Wow Frank, that's a huge offer on the bowsprit. I may take you up on that. Basically it's 5 feet long, 2 1/2 inches across the flats, and the tip is 7 inches. I had to change the hole for the clubfoot / mounting eyebolt. It's 2 inches further forward and 3/8 inch hole. I was planing on just using a regular s.s. bolt because I don't need the eyebolt for the clubfoot anymore. I would have to transfer the hole in the bow to the bowsprit so there would be no need for you to drill holes.

I think the problem with the scarf joints is the same for a lot of the joints, being left out in the rain. I'm going to be re-gluing joints on the companion way cover and the aft hatch cover. I should be an expert at re-gluing joints by the time I get done.


Posted

The problem with working on boats is that you need to have jobs lined up while things are drying, setting up, or hardening. While my bow patch is setting up I'm gluing up the separations between the half round, plywood, and rub rail. Also glued up one scarf joint successfully and sanded it. That is the scarf joint that was sticking out 3/4 inch.

The second picture is the separations I'm fixing. I'm just re-gluing and clamping the pieces back together. Hopefully the joints will hold with paint for protection, otherwise I'll have to invest in a bunch of screws.

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Posted

I searched through the "premium douglas fir" (AKA "firewood") 4 x 4s at Home Depot and found one that I think will be knot free when cut down, and it's pretty straignt. Not kiln dried, so I'll cut it down from all sides so hopefully it won't turn into a pretzel when I get it down to 2 1/2" square with the corners cut off. 

Posted

When I was looking for a 4X4 for the mast I searched all the big box stores in my area. No good wood. I went to a local independent lumber yard (they have about 5 stores in So Cal) and almost the first 4x4 I picked up was the one I used. I think all the box stores are just interested in filling their racks with any kind of wood. If you rack it, they will buy it. That tree support pole I got just doesn't look right, the original Stevenson design looks so much better. I also think tapered octagonal masts look classy and if I ever need another mast that's what I be making.

Posted

The deck patch is done and primed, ready for when I get to the point refinishing the entire deck.

Still repairing the separations along the upper rub rail, side, and half round. Port side is almost done then on to the starboard side. After that repair some blisters in the deck glass, repair the non skid, do some sanding. I'll wait to do the painting until I finish repairs on the cabin since the deck and cabin will be the same color. 

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Posted

Here I am, gluing up one side and down the other. I have two little spots to glue on the port side and then about 1/3 of the starboard side. The separations are not continuous, they skip around. In some places it's just the half round and in other spots it's the plywood and then sometimes it's both. Very tedious and time consuming with my limited amount of clamps.

I sanded and put a coat of spar varnish on the bit. I was hoping it would look antique. Nope. Looks like crap. Maybe I'll paint it the deck color when I get that far. It might look a little better when I rebuild the bit chocks and get them in place. Sanding that thing was a pita because it is permanently mounted in place. The way it looks might just grow on me, maybe.

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Posted

Port side separation repairs are complete, on to the port side rub rails. The top rub rail has three coats of spar varnish and the lower rub rail has two. I think I'll stay with the three coats, it seems to provide enough coverage.

In the third pic you can see where the sun got to the wood. The lighter area is where there was existing varnish and the dark area is where the bare wood got oxidized. Hopefully it will even out eventually. 95% of the lower rub rail had to be scraped to remove the old varnish which is why it looks more consistent in tone. It took about 2 hours to scrape the old varnish off the lower rail.

I have one or two days of repairing the starboard side then I can re-finish the rub rails on that side. After that I'll probably start on the deck/cabin repairs.

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Posted

The rub rails are finished. Scrape off old varnish, sand, and three coats of varnish. Also sanding between each coat of varnish.

On to the next set of repairs. I'm torn between keep on repairing the deck or starting on the mast and spars. On the deck I have to repair hatch covers, make porthole trim, repair deck blisters, repair non-skid, and paint the topside. The mast and spars all need re-finishing and maybe replace the gaff. It was made using the hollow birds-mouth method and I haven't checked the glue joints yet.

On one hand I can do the deck repairs as she sits. If I do the mast and spars I'll have to remove the main sail under the "boat shed". I think I'll just do everything one job at a time starting with removing the main sail. I need to see if the main is still good or if I need to replace it. That would be the most expensive thing and I'll have to put that in the budget. Everything else is just wood and finishes.

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Posted

I detached the mainsail and spread it out to check it. I think it looks pretty good, no rips, not much mold, stitching looks good, eyelets are good, just needs to be cleaned. I'm going to clean it tomorrow, I'm sure I can find a video on cleaning sails. I'm going to bag it and keep it in the garage with the jib. 

I'll check the jib tomorrow and clean it if it needs it. The jib has been in the bag in the garage since my son brought it back from Washington state. I'm pretty sure it's in good shape also.

The birds mouth gaff looks good, as far as I can tell the joints are good. But the mast, boom, and gaff are going to need scraping and sanding. I'll finish them with spar varnish like the rub rails.

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Posted

While waiting for the fog to lift I de-rigged and de-masted Aslan, except for the boom. All lines and pullies labeled and mapped. Still have to do the boom but the sun is shining and I want to wash at least the mainsail today. Poor little boat is looking a bit naked.

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Posted

Fog? At least you are not dealing with snow. LOL  At the speed that you are going, you may be sailing long before a lot of others hunkered down with below freezing temps, and will be for a few more months now.

Posted

I gotta agree Oyster. Even with the high cost of living and the land of fruits and nuts it's hard to beat the climate in Southern California. But then I don't know any better (or worse), I've lived here all my life.

The fog did lift and I did get the mainsail washed. I used laundry detergent and a very soft RV brush because the sail has been under a tarp for 10 years?!! I was being careful knowing the fabric of the sail was very old. I hung it up to dry and I noticed grey stippling all over the sail. And some of the stippling even sparkles. Wait a minute, those sparkles are sunlight coming trough the threads of the sail cloth. My sail is threadbare.

I don't know anything about sail cloth. Will I be able to use this sail? Is this normal? Will it blow up into a cloud of confetti at the first strong gust of wind? Anybody out there experienced in threadbare sails? I'm thinking I've got to start the financial wizardry to get enough money for a new set of sails. My wife may get her tanbark sails after all.

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Posted

I don't really know about what I am seeing, from a picture. But we have always been able to sew a patch on any snags or wear area, at the very least using tarp materials. Heck blue tarps were used by a lot of people going on the cheap on their first small sailing craft.

 

 

But you should be able to search around and find a decent canvas shop and pick thru their scrap or cut off pile  fora decent vinyl fabric.  Hobby Lobby, if you have one around has a decent selection of marine materials in rolls.

Posted

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll check out Bacon Sails Captain Tim. The picture doesn't really show what I was seeing, a video would have been better. Basically in the first pic you can see all the grey streaks on the fabric, all over the sail. If you hold the sail up to the sun you can see light between threads in the fabric along those grey streaks. I should have taken a very close up shot of the area.

I admit I panicked a little, the sail may be just fine. Frank (the builder) will be down for Christmas and he will check out the sail (if I'm nice to him). It feels strong and it doesn't tear in my hands so I might just lace it on and see what happens. I'll probably be testing it at the city lake and it's less than a mile long and I'll have my electric trolling motor on board. What could go wrong? I never heard of a ripped sail sinking a boat.

Posted

Some experiments under are way. I have some small deck blisters outside the cockpit. I sliced into the blister and lifted it to spread some Titebond with a piece of shim stock. After gluing I have to apply pressure evenly and I figure a sandbag with weights on it will conform to the deck. Not having a sandbag handy (or sand) I see the sandwich bag I was using to store my varnish brush between coats. Filling a sandwich bag with (sandy) dirt ends up to be a sort of sandbag. I'll know if the experiment worked in a couple of hours. Don't want to hear anything about a dirtbag being on my boat.

I also have to reset the jib sheet cleats that were glued on the nonskid deck near the cockpit. They got loose between the silicone and the non skid. Perfect impression of the nonskid on the bottom of the cleat mounts.

The mast and spars are down and ready to start re-finishing. I'll start on them as I repair the deck, working them in as time permits.

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Posted

I'm finishing up the bowsprit and will prime and paint the tip with some exterior enamel I have. I'll leave the varnishing to you. I think the bits look fine as they are; they are aged like on a working boat. You don't want to get too fancy do you? 

 

I'm not a big expert on sails, but these boats were originally designed to use poly-tarp sails. The "real sails" I bought are dacron, I think, and the fabric is coated with a resin to make it stiffer ("I think", again, because I'm not that sure). The wrinkles and creases might be breaks in the resin rather than the fabric itself breaking down. 

 

 

Posted

Following this thread, Frank, it looks like you did a good job on it, since its lasted a lot longer than a couple that I have dealt with or seen in the past, when they were really popular with its own group.

Posted

That's good news about the bowsprit, thank you Frank. I'll match drill the mounting hole before I do the varnish so you're almost done. This of course entitles you to free sailing anytime you're in my area. The bits do look like they are on a working boat, functional not fancy. That's a term I've been using for years describing my Jeep. It's a "working Jeep" or "hunting Jeep", not a trailer queen. I'll go with the "working boat" theme.

I think you're right about the sails. Not knowing how they are made it looks like they are fabric coated with plastic. What I am seeing is the fabric where the coating is worn off. If I have to get new sails I will be pulling the sail off for long term storage. I won't be leaving the sail flaked on the boom for ten years. I think a simple lacing on the gaff and boom will work fine. I will try leaving the foot loose just tying the tack and clew when I get her sailing again.

You're right Oyster, Frank did a good job. It's been 24 years since Aslan was launched. He had a tight budget for the materials but his application of those materials has contributed to the age of the boat. Personally I think a Weekender is a great first boat build. You get to build a boat that teaches all facets of plywood boat building without having to deal with all the chemistry of the stitch and glue method. Stitch and glue is great, it's just not for me.

 

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