Frank Hagan

I've locked down the registration process to require Administrator approval, rather than allowing registration using Facebook, Google or other social media "validation". I think the social media logins, which I've allowed since 2015, are responsible for the rash of spammers lately. We'll see. Anyone who has partially registered and not received confirmation yet, please email me at fshagan@gmail.com along with your pending username and I'll manually approve you.

It's a moderation tool thing, and you can make mistakes easily using it (erasing all posts, for instance). I just have to check each day now; the spam protection had gotten so good I was getting complacent. It's only a few clicks to ban a poster and remove all of his posts, so it's not a big deal when I do it. I'm also looking seriously at vBulletin for new forum software instead of Xenforo; vBulletin is used on The Wooden Boat Forum.

It's usually a grueling three day affair to get all the databases converted, etc. So it's usually good to plan it around a slow time on the forums because everything has to be turned off for a while.

The current software, Invision Community, has gone to a much higher subscription level for 2027 (about $500 a month). Because of that, I will be changing software sometime later this year. I am considering https://xenforo.com/ as an alternative. It is about the same price I'm paying now, and looks to have all the features available that we have here, including the automatic spam detection that seems to be failing on Invision Community. I'm open to suggestions on other forum software you like, though.

You should be fine with the main sheet rigging for the lake sailing. The extra blocks and three point attachment helps in two ways, one to make it easier to handle the main sheet on larger boats (not really an issue on a Weekender) and it's more secure in a hard blow (probably not a problem on Lake Mission Viejo either!) I think the original Weekender sail plan had the main sheet attached at one point, on the centerline of the lazarette. The port rings look good. Plus, no blood on them that I can see.

One guy got through the spam filters ... thanks for the head's up, he had more than a dozen spam messages posted.

Those chrome rings are the truck light chrome rings? It's always great to find off-the-shelf stuff to make these hobby built boats look good without spending $300 each on bronze port lights.

I think it's looking good! That plastic on the mast boot might take paint later after its aged a little bit, but even if not, it doesn't look bad in white.

The vent tape should work fine for the mast boot. I think I used an ace bandage and then painted it. It works, but weathers too quickly and needs to be replaced too frequently.

Save any sanding dust? You can sometimes use it and glue to mix up a wood filler that looks better than Bondo. It still is noticeable but not as bright as Bondo.

The "turtle hatch" really looks good. I didn't think you could restore it to look that good, to be honest. It was pretty far gone!

Some trailers use rollers on the uprights ... just pieces of PVC pipe slid over the uprights, with a stop welded under them, so they "roll" when the boat goes on or off if contact is made. It all depends on if you're lucky and the OD of the uprights fit loosely in the ID of some PVC or black ABS pipe or fittings.

Other than the uprights, a 2x6 with two 2x4s attached to it will make a keel holder. Then just adjust the side bunks to support the bottom on either side of it. You may have to move the bow roller forward as well. It looks to me like it should work.

I think most of it is how they are stored on the hard. If they are kept under cover, even with a cheap tarp, and rain water kept out they will last a while. I built it as a five year boat, and spent on materials accordingly, so it is surprising that it survived as well as it did/

I'm finishing up the bowsprit and will prime and paint the tip with some exterior enamel I have. I'll leave the varnishing to you. I think the bits look fine as they are; they are aged like on a working boat. You don't want to get too fancy do you? I'm not a big expert on sails, but these boats were originally designed to use poly-tarp sails. The "real sails" I bought are dacron, I think, and the fabric is coated with a resin to make it stiffer ("I think", again, because I'm not that sure). The wrinkles and creases might be breaks in the resin rather than the fabric itself breaking down.

I searched through the "premium douglas fir" (AKA "firewood") 4 x 4s at Home Depot and found one that I think will be knot free when cut down, and it's pretty straignt. Not kiln dried, so I'll cut it down from all sides so hopefully it won't turn into a pretzel when I get it down to 2 1/2" square with the corners cut off.

You need to buy more clamps. (That is a true statement for anyone at any time).

If you get me the dimensions of the original bowsprit I can make one up and bring it down to you. It was made out of a 4 x 4 that Dad had bought for the patio cover on Parkview street, one of his last big projects, I think. I need the overall length, the length of the white tip (I think it is 7"), and the dimensions of the "hole" in the bits that it will have to fit through (I think it is about 3" x 3", but I'm not sure). Repairs are looking good so far. I think those scarf joints were held together with Weldwood Wood glue and not epoxy. They should have not separated in any case, so we'll have to blame the shoddy workmanship of that original builder guy!

I'll bring whatever I have on Christmas. The repairs are looking good. The bowsprit really isn't under a lot of tension, so it's way overbuilt. I think the original was a 4 x 4 with the edges cut off at a 45, then the end rounded down for the tip.

I found the crushed walnut shells; I'll bring them down at Christmas. I also found some epoxy fillers. These would only be good if you plan to buy some epoxy and need to thicken it for filling gaps, making fillets, etc. There's some fumed silica, micro glass "balloons" and some maple wood flour that makes a dark brown fillet. It's small quantities of it. Let me know if you want the epoxy filler stuff.

The hull has a large quantity of 3M 5200 sealant used to seal the seams. That was in the original plans, and it works really well. It's waterproof, seals really well, remains flexible (you can check inside the cabin along the floor edges to see if its still pliable) and takes paint. A lot of guys used it without glassing the hulls. You could also use thickened epoxy.

Anyone who has paid and is still seeing ads, please let me know here or via email and I'll investigate.

Sand is very sharp, so it can really tear up your skin if you're barefoot. MIght hurt so much that you jump in the water. But it works to keep you from slipping. The non-skid they usually sell is usually like a crushed up rubber material; the best stuff is white so it doesn't show like the brown walnut shells do. The advantage of the walnut shells was that you could sand it to get the amount of friction you want without the "peaks" that tear up your feet and knees. But it all works the same to stop you from slipping.

The "hull paint" was just outdoor paint from Home Depot, I think. Maybe an aklyd enamel or something. It's at least from 1998 or 1999, so that paint's older than my grandchildren in college. It works well enough for an ACX plywood boat that lives on a trailer most of the time!

I can't find them, but I haven't looked up in the "loft" where some of the other stuff, like the fiberglass, is, so it could still show up. I think you can get it in 1# bags on eBay too, as it is used by hobbyists for "shell blasting" projects.