Marissa 18 build

[Jason Klett]

Hello all, I'm about to start down a long road building a Marissa 18. I got the plans a few weeks ago, the epoxy last week, and just got the plywood delivery. I haven't picked up the glass yet but I have plenty of time before I'm at that stage. I work 12 hour nights so the updates will be slow and not too frequent so bear with me. 

 

A little about my experience: I have built 2 smaller stitch and glue boats, a plywood on frame jonboat, and a plywood pirogue. I've done my share of fiberglass repairs and decked out an aluminum skiff. I also turn saltwater plugs, tie flies, and make bamboo fly rods.

 

I have a machine shop background and have done everything from framing to masonry, roofing, plumbing, electrical, kind of a jack of all trades. I also have rebuilt a couple of outboards, a handful of car engines and transmissions, and restored a few motorcycles. Basically if it was broken, I fixed it. It has always been more of a necessity than a past time though, that's what this boat is for.

 

Well, here's the first post. Time to finish cleaning out the barn so I can really get started.

 

[Alan Stewart]

Looking forward to seeing it come together. Love a good barn cleaning. I think the older it get the better it feels to throw sh#& away. Make room for new projects. 

[Hirilonde]

2 hours ago, Alan Stewart said:

 Love a good barn cleaning. I think the older it get the better it feels to throw sh#& away. 

Imagine cleaning out your house of 36 years to move for retirement.

[Jason Klett]

I cleared out the area to build this boat so at least one thing is out of the way. I'm suffering from a little paralysis by analysis though. The floor of the barn is nowhere near level so I'm wondering if I should build a strongback to bring the keel to level or just use the sawhorses and deal with it that way. I have a bunch of scrap 2x4s if the strongback is the way to go, I just don't know how critical it is besides for the DWL for the boot stripe. I will still make sure it's level side to side and square either way. Maybe I'm just overthinking it, I have too much invested in plywood and epoxy to screw this up so I'm a little apprehensive about starting. 

 

Another question is for the scarfed panels. Do I scarf and glue up the whole sheets before marking and cutting or can I cut them as 4x8s and do that before assembly? I'd prefer to do the latter so I don't have to muscle around 4x24 sheets of 9mm plywood (not to mention my work area is only 22 feet). My last boat didn't have full size templates so everything was lofted, I was able to cut close and plane down to final dimensions. Just not sure if this one will work that way too since I don't have offsets to work from, first time with templates.

 

Last question, I ordered the plywood based on the BOM listed on the website before my plans came in and that didn't include the console so I'm 2 sheets short. Can I do that from foam or exterior plywood since I don't have a source local for marine ply? Again, I'm probably overthinking it since it isn't strucural but I figured I'd ask an opinion. 

[Hirilonde]

You definitely want a secure level building form. I built on the ground and just leveled my sawhorses.

 

Scarf before lofting. The kits cut before scarfing, but CNC is more accurate than you are.

 

In your situation I would use Baltic Birch plywood for the console. It is probably the best plywood shy of BS 1088.

[Jason Klett]

Thank you, I am definitely overthinking this. I will just build a simple frame and level it out then just that as the base to measure up from. 

 

The only obstacle remaining is how to keep the 24' sheets out of the weather for a day or 2 until the epoxy sets up and I can mark and cut. I have a few days to think this one through, I won't be able to do much until Thursday due to my work schedule. 

[Alan Stewart]

Jason, 

The full size templates show our suggested layout for the scarfs. If you wanted to reduce the total length of ply for scarfing to try and keep it inside your building shop you could cut the parts marked in blue below out first using the templates. Then scarf the remainders together. The first set of 3 sheets are ripped at ~27 1/2" prior to scarfing and you could rip the second set at that width as well AFTER cutting out the anchor well sole and the casting platform parts since they need a little extra width from that first sheet.  Then the third and fourth set of 3 sheets could be reduced before scarfing. Plywood is a great material if you accidentally make a mistake you can simply butt joint on some additional ply with a piece of glass tape and carry on with a piece that is stronger than it was before!

It's a little risky to cut the part the bottom stringers are in but if you measure carefully I think you could do it as well. One gotcha is that most marine ply is metric (98" length) but our supplier is now bringing in other brands due to quality issues and tariffs etc. Specifically we're using marine ply from Gaboon which is 96" sheets! this has caused us to have to re-toolpath some of our kit files so watch out that. The sheets in most of our templates guides are 98"

If you were using 96" sheets it would look like this... still fits. 

 

[Jason Klett]

Alan,

 

Thank you for the idea about cutting the smaller parts out first to reduce the overall size. That will make the handling and glue up a lot easier since I won't have to worry about rain or dew causing any issues with leaving them overnight to cure. It's also reassuring that mistakes are somewhat correctable to a degree, hopefully I can minimize any of that.

 

I also wasn't aware of the dimensional differences between manufacturers, I thought they would all be 96" and didn't consider the metric conversion. I just went out and measured mine and it is 98 7/16". 2500mm makes a lot more sense manufacturing wise than 2438.4mm.

 

My plan of attack this weekend is to knock together a 4' x 24' frame outside so I can lay out 3 sheets on top. Use that to roll out and tape the templates then mark and cut out all of the smaller parts (at least from the long panels). Once that's done I can scarf the long panels and glue them together. Hopefully I'll have some time left to mark and cut those as well, I'll just have to see where things lie.

 

Once everything is cut out, I will be able to put in an hour or so daily instead of having to wait for my days off to do anything. I really only have to wait when power tools are needed, hand tools and epoxy work don't wake the neighbors. 

[Don Silsbe]

I love the Marissa 18, and am looking forward to watching your build.  Here are a couple of random comments.

 

When I’m building, I try to do “something” every day.  Taking breaks can be habit forming.  Beware of taking breaks!  (I typically set the work aside on most Sundays, though, for various reasons.)

 

The epoxy only needs an overnight to cure enough for the next step.  My typical work day is cutting and fitting, saving the glue-up for my final operation.  Towards the end of the day, I do my gluing, and have dinner.  Depending on the operation, I’ll pop onto the shop to check for excessive squeeze-out.

[Jason Klett]

I knocked together a quick and simple frame so I could unroll the mylar and tape it together. I laid 3 sheets down as a base so I could have some room to keep the templates unrolled while I marked parts out. It isn't level or super square but it doesn't need to be for what I'm using it for. I was able to mark out all of the frames before I ran out of daylight. Tomorrow's plan is to finish marking the soles and start cutting some parts out. If I have time I'll make a jig for my saw so I can scarf the long panels. Just seeing things marked on the plywood was a good feeling! 

[Don Silsbe]

A question to all, before Jason gets too far along— Are 2x4’s enough stability for this frame?  I’ve always used 2x6’s.

[Jason Klett]

3 hours ago, Don Silsbe said:

A question to all, before Jason gets too far along— Are 2x4’s enough stability for this frame?  I’ve always used 2x6’s.

I'm curious about that myself, I haven't built the strongback yet. The frame I posted is just for marking and cutting the panels, a makeshift workstation from scrap lumber to make it easier to use the long patterns. I wouldn't want anyone thinking I was planning on building off of it, it's temporary. 

[Designer]

Don, 

2 x 4's will work but it will take a bit more bracing to keep it stable and true.

 

Jason,

I hope that you have as much fun as I had building hull #1 back in 2009. You have opened yourself up to getting more advise than you might need or want, good and not so good. Just think it over and go with your gut. We are all friends here and it is meant well.

 

I wouldn't bother scarfing the hull panels and bottom stringers, just use butt blocks made out 9mm ply 5" long with the grain running fore and aft. I would probably scarf the chine flats as they were a bit fiddley to install fair. 

 

Scarfing takes a fair amount of work and time and it is a lot easier to install 8 foot panels on the hull when short handed than 18 to 19 foot panels. The boat will not be any worse than a sister ship which was scarfed assuming both methods were done properly. I have seen butt blocks that make me cringe, like less than full glue contact, misaligned, too short, glue squeeze-out not cleaned up and the weak axis along the butt line. I like to bevel the fore and aft edges to at least 45 degrees so that when you glass across them when tabbing the bottom stringers to the bottom you don't get voids or bubbles under the glass.

[Jason Klett]

I am really enjoying this build, it has a lot of firsts for me and I'm learning new things. Advice, feedback, and criticism are always welcome, that's why I started this thread. I like how supportive everyone is here and I look forward to every post.

 

Good to hear that butt blocks will work for the hull panels and bottom stringers, that would make things easier for sure. I might still scarf the sides though, just so you won't see the blocks when the boat is finished. I have some time to decide which route I'll go down, I want to get all the smaller parts marked and cut out before I get to that part. And there are a lot more smaller parts than I realized, I know why the pre-cut kits are so popular. Good thing I don't have a deadline for this one!

[Don Silsbe]

Graham is right (of course).  On this forum, you will get plenty of free advice.  Just remember that it is worth every penny you paid for it.  Your biggest problem will be deciding which advice to take, and which to ignore.  

[Jason Klett]

Just wanted to give a quick update, this project had to be put on the back burner but will resume in the spring after I rebuild the roof on my outbuilding that will serve as the building space. The past few storms did a number on the old framing so I just have it temporarily shored up until the snow all melts and I can rebuild/reinforce it. Not really possible to work in there with the way I had to jack things up, there are lolly posts and 2x4s all over the place. One of the drawbacks of owning an older property that wasn't maintained before I got it, there's always something that needs to be fixed.

 

I also had some vehicle issues right after my last post that had to be addressed and then it got too cold for epoxy work so not much progress. All that's done so far is the non-scarfed panel parts are all marked out and the keel parts are cut. I can't wait for warmer weather so I can fix the roof and get going with this build!

 

On a positive note, the roof problem is forcing me to pull everything out of the building so I will be able to organize and clean it out well before really getting into the build. That will open up another bay so I will be able to have more room for scarfing and preparing the long panels. I will also be able to put in better lighting so I won't be relying on 2 100w bulbs screwed into the ridge board that it has now. Silver linings.

[Jason Klett]

I do have a couple of questions about some modifications I'd like to do while I wait for spring. 

 

The first is about the cutouts in the stern bulkhead. I see that there are cleats in the top centered going to the transom, I'm wondering if having that top part solid is structural. What I would like to do there is keep the bulkhead itself solid and put hatches on top instead so I can install a baitwell in one side and the batteries in the other (I plan on running dual batteries). I can draw up what I am talking about if this doesn't make sense.

 

The second is regarding the bow top. I want to build an anchor well there with a cover so I can use the casting platform hatch as storage rather than keeping the anchor in there. The plans have a board on the centerline so I'm wondering if that's structural as well. I attached an image of what I'm wanting to do there.