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Returning to my half done CS17


MattandTru

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Hello all,

My son and I got a CS17 kit SIX years ago when he was in 8th grade.  We had a few interveneing events that pushed the project back again and again. 

He's 19 now and the two of us are determined to FINISH THE BOAT.  We have a lot done and a fair amount to do yet. 

The hull, trunk, bulkheads and benches, centerboard and rudder,  are all done.  The bottom is glassed and painted.   and the cockpit has a coat of paint. 

So my list is:  Decks, combings, rub rail, fore hatch,  cockpit hatch covers, masts, tracks, and glass tubes, sprits, tiller, set the centerboard and the bolt,  hardware, rigging, launch,

I'm wondering:  what sort of advice and adjustments to the process has occured in the last 6 years that I may wish to consider?  I have the complete inventory of hardware from B&B from 2015.  Any thoughts, wisdom from recent builders?   Tru and I are very excited to get it in the water.  Maybe even this fall. 

Matt and Truman

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Welcome back.

I have a CS17 hull 157 built in 2008 and the design has aged well.  I've upgraded to the new sail track and "fat head" full batten sails, am in the process of adding a boarding ladder, and wish I had a main mast tabernacle.  My only significant regret regards leaking seat hatches which were not built to design. 

Overall, I say follow the plans, avoid significant amounts of varnish, get some 9-6" spoon blade oars and let the kid manhandle the mast.    

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I  did not mean to imply that a tabernacle is necessary.  My attraction to the tabernacle has more to do with shoulder rotator cuff troubles and plans to sail into my dotage.   One of Alan's videos on the CS15? shows the tabernacle under construction.  Doesn't look like too much work if you haven't installed the deck yet.   

 

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I once converted to a tabernacle on an existing boat by cutting the mast and using the bottom part that projects through the deck to built the tabernacle around. The bottom part was left extending above the deck far enough to do this. That way, no changes had to be made to the deck other than securing the lower part in place.

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  • 2 weeks later...

IMG_0732.HEIC

Making good progress.  Got two glass tubes made, Deck framing is mostly installed and planed to an even arc.  Bow eye in.  Found my adjustable circle cutter to cut the hole for the Main tube.  Definitely a drill press gig with that cutter, so I'll need a different technique for the mizzen tube hole.  Can't really put the drill press in the cockpit.   I upsized slightly the framing members for the deck.  And I added a slight arc to the two cross members around the hatch opening to allow for an even flex of the panels.  Matched the arc of the bulkhead and aft beam.  We made an error putting the bulkhead beam on the aft side, rather than fore, so we wound up with notches aft that did not line up with the ones on the aft beam.  So.... I made the diagonal pieces you see.  They seem to divide the space more evenly actually. 

Exciting to dry fit the tube and drop a mast tube in for the first time, and it easily plumbs up to the 3 degree rake.  All systems go! 

Wondering: How have people attached the Deck panels to the deck framing?  I'm planning to fit the two halves temporarily and cut the hatch and mast holes with a bearing tip router bit, then remove the panels and install the tube permanently, get everything buttoned up in the forward compartment, then put the deck panels on for good in lightly thickened epoxy.  At that point have people screwed down the panels?  Or nailed with s.s. nails?   The fasteners would only serve to hold in place till the epoxy grabs hold.  What have you all done? 

And, have you put an outside corner of glass tape connecting the deck to hull which would wind up under the gunwhale?  overkill?

Thanks all! 

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I used drywall screws thru plywood pads to fasten the deck down. Then filled the holes when screws out. Worked well, ooks swell.  Wax the screw threads s so they'll come back out easily.  I used clamps where possible.  For example. Consider at least a rough cut of the hatch opening so you can get some clamps in there.  Use lots of screws, every 6 or 8 inches where there are bends, for example.  I believe I screwed perimeter only, not interior, or at least not many interior. 

 

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Aaaah!  Yes!  Now I remember that strategy.  We've been away long enough that the tricks have escaped me.  OK   I know "exactly" what to do now. 

I'd still like to make it over to see your boat sometime.  You'll recall we played with that idea when you were just finishing yours and we were getting started.   You've been sailing it while mine has been waiting and waiting!   Now the end of the build is coming into view

Matt

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  • 4 weeks later...

Decks forward and sides are all on.   That was a complicated affair for some reason.  Getting the inwales fitted was tricky.  Though I did have a funny synchronicity.  I'm taking an old dairy barn down this summer.  It is the type with arched glue-lam beams, many of which were delaminating, contributing to its structural failure.  The laminations of the beams are 20+ food long lengths of clear fir, 1 1/2" x 3/4" and bent to a long graceful arc.  As the barn came down, much of all that was destroyed, but a pretty big pile of de-laminated lengths were savable.  18', and thereabouts.  Lots of shorter ones too.  Much went to my kindling pile.   But two of the nicest became my inwales! 

Also, at a renovators yard sale I scored a 22' long length of clear yellow pine baseboard, probably 100 years old.  That will make my gunwales!  Ha! 

Question:  Getting ready to rivet sail track on.  The holes on the track are 3/16" but 3/16 (#6) rivets are too big for the valley of the track.  Has anyone used #5 (5/32")?  The 1/8" seem so dinky.  There is a #5 rivet that has a countersink head that is smaller than the pan head.  Anyone used those?  Or just use the 1/8" and be done with it? 

Gettin close!

Matt

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Well the #5 rivets are difficult to get and really expensive.  So I'm going with the #4 as in the plans... if anyone cares!   hahaha

I wonder has anyone made a rubber boot to go around the main mast that seals to the mast and sleeves over the top of the tube?  Seems like that would keep the tube really dry. 

And, relatedly, where have people run the drain hose from the bottom of the Main mast tube?  through hull seems excessive and pokes a hole in the hull.  Back to the forward bulkhead and into the cockpit? 

-Matt

 

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I actually didnt put in a drain tube.  I figure the tube is usually filled with mast when exposed to weather, so any collection of water will be minimal.  I can put my bilge pump down there if needed when I take the mast out.  I didnt like the idea of a hole or drain tube up there. No problems noted so far.

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