MattandTru

Well the #5 rivets are difficult to get and really expensive. So I'm going with the #4 as in the plans... if anyone cares! hahaha I wonder has anyone made a rubber boot to go around the main mast that seals to the mast and sleeves over the top of the tube? Seems like that would keep the tube really dry. And, relatedly, where have people run the drain hose from the bottom of the Main mast tube? through hull seems excessive and pokes a hole in the hull. Back to the forward bulkhead and into the cockpit? -Matt

Decks forward and sides are all on. That was a complicated affair for some reason. Getting the inwales fitted was tricky. Though I did have a funny synchronicity. I'm taking an old dairy barn down this summer. It is the type with arched glue-lam beams, many of which were delaminating, contributing to its structural failure. The laminations of the beams are 20+ food long lengths of clear fir, 1 1/2" x 3/4" and bent to a long graceful arc. As the barn came down, much of all that was destroyed, but a pretty big pile of de-laminated lengths were savable. 18', and thereabouts. Lots of shorter ones too. Much went to my kindling pile. But two of the nicest became my inwales! Also, at a renovators yard sale I scored a 22' long length of clear yellow pine baseboard, probably 100 years old. That will make my gunwales! Ha! Question: Getting ready to rivet sail track on. The holes on the track are 3/16" but 3/16 (#6) rivets are too big for the valley of the track. Has anyone used #5 (5/32")? The 1/8" seem so dinky. There is a #5 rivet that has a countersink head that is smaller than the pan head. Anyone used those? Or just use the 1/8" and be done with it? Gettin close! Matt

Coincidentally, I just assembled masts for our CS 17 today. I used 28" lengths of fabric cut from scrap, to use it up, but also to avoid the hemmed edge building up to ridges on the sides of the wraps. I found I had to sand quite alot to get them to go together. With the fabric I used, probably 24" or so would have been about right. I pulled it pretty tight and squeegeed it tight in the wrap. All went together great in the end. Another check off the list. Matt

That is so inspiring! I'm getting to a reasonably short list here on my 17, so I hope to sail with you next summer. Maybe Mendota? Your trip looks like just the adventure I'm imagining. Wow Matt, in the Driftless

Aaaah! Yes! Now I remember that strategy. We've been away long enough that the tricks have escaped me. OK I know "exactly" what to do now. I'd still like to make it over to see your boat sometime. You'll recall we played with that idea when you were just finishing yours and we were getting started. You've been sailing it while mine has been waiting and waiting! Now the end of the build is coming into view Matt

IMG_0732.HEIC Making good progress. Got two glass tubes made, Deck framing is mostly installed and planed to an even arc. Bow eye in. Found my adjustable circle cutter to cut the hole for the Main tube. Definitely a drill press gig with that cutter, so I'll need a different technique for the mizzen tube hole. Can't really put the drill press in the cockpit. I upsized slightly the framing members for the deck. And I added a slight arc to the two cross members around the hatch opening to allow for an even flex of the panels. Matched the arc of the bulkhead and aft beam. We made an error putting the bulkhead beam on the aft side, rather than fore, so we wound up with notches aft that did not line up with the ones on the aft beam. So.... I made the diagonal pieces you see. They seem to divide the space more evenly actually. Exciting to dry fit the tube and drop a mast tube in for the first time, and it easily plumbs up to the 3 degree rake. All systems go! Wondering: How have people attached the Deck panels to the deck framing? I'm planning to fit the two halves temporarily and cut the hatch and mast holes with a bearing tip router bit, then remove the panels and install the tube permanently, get everything buttoned up in the forward compartment, then put the deck panels on for good in lightly thickened epoxy. At that point have people screwed down the panels? Or nailed with s.s. nails? The fasteners would only serve to hold in place till the epoxy grabs hold. What have you all done? And, have you put an outside corner of glass tape connecting the deck to hull which would wind up under the gunwhale? overkill? Thanks all!

Hello friends and mentors, I'm approaching setting the tube for the Main and I need to level the boat on the trailer. Side to side is easy. I know there is a measurement if you bring level back from the bow to a certain point in the boat and the measurement down, it should be "x" I need this to get the rake right for the tube and mizzen foot as well Can someone fill in the blanks for me? Much obliged! Matt

Great advice! I recall the tabernacle being under final refinements in 2015 Now you have me thinking

I have a red half finished CS17 in wisconsin. There is a new post describing it. My son and I will get it done in the coming months. Maybe we can rendezvous next year?

Hello all, My son and I got a CS17 kit SIX years ago when he was in 8th grade. We had a few interveneing events that pushed the project back again and again. He's 19 now and the two of us are determined to FINISH THE BOAT. We have a lot done and a fair amount to do yet. The hull, trunk, bulkheads and benches, centerboard and rudder, are all done. The bottom is glassed and painted. and the cockpit has a coat of paint. So my list is: Decks, combings, rub rail, fore hatch, cockpit hatch covers, masts, tracks, and glass tubes, sprits, tiller, set the centerboard and the bolt, hardware, rigging, launch, I'm wondering: what sort of advice and adjustments to the process has occured in the last 6 years that I may wish to consider? I have the complete inventory of hardware from B&B from 2015. Any thoughts, wisdom from recent builders? Tru and I are very excited to get it in the water. Maybe even this fall. Matt and Truman

http://supermarinepaint.com/marinepaint/pc/Testimonial-d6.htm Anyone ever used this company? "SM1000" -Matt

Hey Paul, Matt and Tru out in Viroqua here. How are you coming along? We're making good progress, but we might be a little less exacting than you in our approach to some things. Are you getting in the water this summer or fall? We are hopeful, but have a lot left to do. We'd still love to see your boat at whatever stage its at. Not sure when we'd find the time to get over there, but the intention is there! -Matt

Sounds like the answer is, "go ahead, or don't bother and use whatever you got." Thanks. I will try it on the spars. -Matt

I taped and then glassed the hull, then realized that I had not planed a flat surface to receive the keel, so now I need to shape the keel to fit over the v shaped bottom joint. If I ver build another one, I'll get a lot more right in the sequencing! -Matt

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies/cloth/sleeving/index.htm Has anyone used this stuff to make the mast tubes for the CS 17 masts? It is fiberglass cloth woven in tubes of various diameters and weights. Just saw it as I was shopping for some supplies and thought it might do a slick job of it. -Matt

the figure head

you want photos? lots of photos sorry about the duplicate

sorry we haven't posted anything lately Ive had a lot of work for school and we've haven't done much but got the seats in and i'm doing this project for school and its due in march so we are going to try to get it painted at least for when its due we epoxied all the seat and deck parts in our basement when it was to cold to work in the shop (my dad told me to wright that) :rolleyes: -Tru(the boss) :D

we coated the whole inside of the boat! still dreading the keel batten but planing on doing that next. i still don't see why we need to sand it. i keen i know that its important and all it just looks so pretty -Tru (the boss)

Hi all, Still filleting and taping filleting and taping. We put together the hatch assemblies and will install them next. Still need to do the keel batten We have a white teddy bear designated to be the figure head. He/she will be epoxied with any leftover we have at the end. Tru wants to install a mini-fridge and hard wire a boombox into the forward bulkhead. Still working on the gunk-holer aesthetic with him. We need to paint the insides of the compartments soon so we can put seats in. -M and T, the boss!

Dnjost, great tip on the saw cuts as guides to find the angle. I can visualize that easily and it makes perfect sense. Did you glass the seam under the batten first? I want to glass it in at least a few places before I cut the wires off the seam. Then I would incline to just running a tape down the length before putting the batten in. thoughts?

Happy to have any advice on shaping the keel batten. I know it has a varying angle and the angles are on the pretty pictures part of the plans. Have people just roughed out on the table saw and tweaked with hand plane? We have the rear bulkhead in, so we will need to scarf together two pieces. Have people taped the seam first under the batten? That is what we are imagining. Then clamp with screws and pads from under the cradle? I think in Alan's videos, he just sort of has it in one day, when it wasn't there before, like a magic trick. Has anyone used any "Aruco" which is the clear South American (Chilean) "pine" that is sold at Menard's as "black label" premium trim material? It is nice material to work with in the trim carpentry world. -Matt and Tru

Taped the chine today. Took off the wires on the chine but not the keel

Yeah we don't have any small sheets But i guess were doing pretty good considering Did a bunch of filleting and tapping on the bow and glued in the forward bulkhead.

Here is a pic of our inwales going in. went pretty well. we had some old very straight grain fir that was 12 feet long, so we needed a scarf joint but that worked out great. so far so good. transom pieces today perhaps. some taping and filleting.