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Chick's Tango skiff 12 build


Chick Ludwig
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Tango Skiff 12 Build log notes. #16

Here's the final construction post on my Tango 12 two-part boat. I did add a keel as discussed last time. Also dis the varnishing and painting. It needs another coat of both, but I wanna try it out first. The first two pictures are of the floorboards. They are carried separately to save weight when lifting the halves on and off the truck, then dropped in place before launching. The third picture is of the “retaining pins” that hold the center seat in place.

I’ll post pictures of the boat in the water when “life” gives me a chance to try it out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tango 12 Shakedown

Today we took the new Tango 12 for a “shakedown” at Lake Adger near Mill Spring, NC. I was very pleased with everything. It carried our weight well, was stable, and motored well, and even rowed surprisingly easily. Debbie was the photographer so we couldn’t get pictures with us both aboard. She couldn’t resist a picture of the mountains. The little cascade (waterfall) was where we stopped for lunch. You’ll notice the black scum on the sides. The water near the ramp was nasty from oil dribbling boat motors.

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Debbie loves the cascades and waterfalls. 2.5 won't get her on a real plane like it did Turtler, but it's fine for putsing around the little lakes. I may get a 6 or 8 hp motor later if I can find one cheap enough. A real trailer would be nice, too. Guess I should admit a little "oops" when we were unloading. I had untied everything before backing down the ramp. The boat "launched" itself. ....before getting to the water. Even though the boat is to take camping with us, I'll also use it for little day trips without taking it apart. It was a pain dragging it back on that trailer when time to load up for home.

 

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Cool project and great work, All you need to help load that boat in the trailer is a  galvanized pipe threaded at the end and end caps mounted on the back of the trailer using u-bolts at the end or a piece of metal with drilled holes so that the pipe can spin with caps and a pool noddle and you are all set up.  If you want to get that "iron jib" out of your way and upgrade to a bigger one, let me know. I will offset your upgrade engine fund.  Did you ever get rid of that canoe boat?  If not let me know. I got rid of my inflatable  and need something for the grandkids until they can get back into school in Aug.

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Already have a roller I made like that. Problem is that I don't wanna back the utility trailer into the watef far enough to submerge the lights. They are not waterproof. Also, the angle the boat sets at so the bow clears the front rail of the trailer bed, combined with the slope of the ramp is pretty steep making it difficult for my poor old body to pull up. Also have to lift the back of the boat to unload it.

 

I could rig at tailer winch on the ladder rack of the truck, but it would be awkward. A good old boat trailer that I can back down and hit the breaks to unload, and submerge to float the boat on would make it all much easier. I'm kinda spoiled that way. I really have  the utility trailer for the occasional trip to the mower repair shop. I only use it once every couple of years. Gotta pay taxes and tag on the dang thing every year. I think Plan-B where the trailer finds a new home is coming close to implementation.

 

Canoe found a new home. The new owner is very happy with it. I wish I'd known your young-uns woulda wanted it!

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It looks like the front portion will fit between the sides of the current trailer. So Maybe add two new 2 x 6 carpet covered bunks to the trailer  partially extending the  flat bed, making a combination boat trailer and utility trailer. This lowers the location of the boat and install the winch to the front of the cross section of the trailer.  All you also need to do is to install the two bunks on pivot pins at the bottom portion of trailer frame making this trailer like the older ones where the back portion operates on a pull pin. Of course the longer point would be on the forward section from the back of the trailer so that the bunks do not dig in as you back down to load. Just my thinking anyway, If you need the lights to be back further, then use the portable lights purchased from Harbor Freight or Walmart, which sells them locally mounted on a 2x4 and tie it to your boat's transom on the top ladder back rails

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On ‎7‎/‎17‎/‎2020 at 7:51 AM, Chick Ludwig said:

As a famous designer of the past used to say, "Different ships, different long splices".

(Points go to whoever can tell me who said this.)

So are you implying  that you don't think much of my mountaineer fix?  But you can save your points to add to your handicap for the duck pin league.:P 
 
From the book by Jim Reed :
To go around the horn in a square rigged ship is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. To do it more than once is the sign of real manliness or foolishness. I wouldn't want to do it even once. Jim Reed Author
 
And for good measure here is one for you. This will provide you some varnishing music.:lol:
 
Let us know when you are venturing out to a campground with your vessel. We are looking for an excuse to go to the mountain top for some cooler weather and away from the herds in town.
 
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Oyster, just don't like the way at all comes together on the dumb utility trailer. Either sticks too far out the front and hits the truck, or hangs too far off the back and drags the ground. I could cut off the front rail on the trailer so the boat wouldn't have to sit on top of it, but thats a bit extreme. Or raise the back higher. Nope, I'd rather just find a real trailer.

Never heard of that version or "Different ships..." What I was referring to was from "The Book of Boats" by Billy and John Atkin. I don't remember exactly which one of them said it.

 

May not camp until fall now. Too dang hot for us mountain folk. No lakes big enough to boat on on the mountain top. We have to go to a lower elevation to do it. Either down to S.C., or over into Tenn., but off the mountain either way.

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Well It sounded like you did not want to spend to get another trailer with related costs.  But if all else fails go the Harbor Freight route, which converts to a great freshwater bunk   trailer for about half the costs of an Ex Loader . The jet ski trailers work well too, which of course you being a man of experience will do a similar job even though the tongue is shorter than the boat trailers.  FWIW,  I have converted the Mocassin 2 to  square stern canoe. I know, In know, "shiver me timbers":P

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I hadn't thought of the Harbor Freight deal. I'll check-it-out. I've been hoping for a cheap trailer on Craigslist, but no luck so far. I used a PWC trailer for Turtler and added a tongue extension that I ordered on Amazon. Worked great! Moc 2 oughta work fine. A lot lighter that the flat-back that B&B designed for me. It was quite a bit wider than the Moc. I had them keep the stern narrow to qualify as a canoe by USCG standards. I wished that we had gone with a wide stern. Not enough buoyancy with the narrower stern.

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Well the Moc stern still will not have a lot of buoyancy.  I left it long instead of cutting it back to the flatter region behind the back seat. I wanted to end up with enough room to stretch my arm to the tiller. I may install a pulley  system on the handle area  with a stick steering.  Now that's going to some farmer rigging if that happens. I will be using a 2.5. But I plan on installing some foam under a false floor behind the rear seat after my first in water test. But along those lines I have a small cooler that fits nicely in the bow. So with block ice and some drinks, maybe some canned ice tea and my second non-paying passenger we can make the boat work for our creeker carried on a farmer designed canoe rack in the truck bed and across the cab. 

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