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Abyssdncr last won the day on March 26 2017

Abyssdncr had the most liked content!

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  1. I did something similar for one of the kid's yaks for aesthetic purposes - it can work. However, I believe the weight "saved" with the lighter fabric gets totally negated with the added weight of the rub strips, staples, screws, and silicone required for a leak proof installation. I'd just sew the 9 oz up the top with the running whip stitch for the lightest weight if I were you & felt the need for the more robust fabric.
  2. I used this for all of mine: http://www.kudzucraft.net/Rope-and-Thread/Stitching-Twine.html ...but it's out of stock... I can't think of any good reason braided line wouldn't work for sewing, but I would want to make sure it's something that will melt with heat after you tie off and snip the tag ends to discourage the knots from slipping loose over time.
  3. Screws go left and right of center just enough to get screws in at the front and back. There will be enough clamping force.
  4. http://www.kudzucraft.net/Uncoated-fabrics/ Skip the "economy" fabric and save yourself lots of headaches - the cost savings really isn't worth it in the long run.
  5. I'd approach this task much the same as approaching the bow or stern tips - cut your cords off just shy of the hatch lip and stitch the fabric up tight at the termination and staple under as Jeff described. I went the other route on my hatch with the double corded stitch though and offset the hatch to the side and stitched the seam around the hatch lip. If it makes you feel any better - you're probably overthinking this - once you go to make it happen, the solution will present itself by necessity.
  6. Walter, What fabric are you using? My answer would change depending on what you use, not from a durability standpoint, because I think it's a toss-up, but from an "effectiveness of sealing" perspective. If you're using the economy fabric, I believe you'll get a much better seal in fewer coats with less hastle using spar varnish from the local BBS. If you're going with the premium fabric, I'd go the paint route. I did two painted boats with the economy and one of them still has pinholes somewhere and the other took spray on fill primer to get a bunch of spots. With the varnished one, three coats on the bottom, two on the top - good to go and doesn't leak a drop. The main thing with the varnish is to apply it as sparingly as possible at first so you don't get runs and drips that go through, because every application error will be visible from both directions... Hope this helps!
  7. If it were me, I'd push them into place and lash. If there's any distortion to the frame, it'll add a smidge of rocker which shouldn't hurt the design at all in my opinion.
  8. Honestly, no idea, but considering it's more popular applications in the sporting goods and automotive applications, I don't think it's an issue. I'm using 0.080" sheets. Lots of wear resistance...for the price. I can replace them half a dozen times at half the cost of brass.
  9. I've recently started experimenting with kydex for rub strips when Keel Easy failed me at the tips. Rough cut size, thermoform carefully with a heat gun, sand it to final shape / debur the edges, and rubber cement in place. If it gets too worn, peel it off and wash, rinse, repeat.
  10. Finally got her out on the river yesterday. Fairly tight and winding section - definitely made it a workout managing the length around some of the bends, but it fulfilled my desired outcome of decent cargo with a shallow waterline for low water conditions. Should have used ply instead of cedar on the seat mounting blocks, because I broke both sides removing the seat without being gentle enough. Should be easy enough of a repair though. This one's officially in the "done" column. ?
  11. Another bud snapped this while me and the daughter were out enjoying the end of a day. There's something about a tandem that connects two people that a pair of solos just can't touch...
  12. My CLC has a two layer foam seat that takes a tractor seat shape in use. Between that and a Surf to Summit high back band, it's one of the most comfortable boats for me. If it's just got the one layer of foam though, it wouldn't be nearly as effective. Post back with your Redfish install. I'd love to see it.
  13. I've put 36.5 river miles in my tandem so far this year. Only one of the kiddos has confidence in moving water, so it's nice for them to have me in the back as a safety net for them. Also put a number of hours in it fishing the local lake. We've actually had lots of fun learning to coordinate maneuvers. Me and the wife are good to go; me and a kid are good to go; any other combo of the household...not so much. We had a full house tandem night last week. Me and the wife in a Dirigo tandem, the older girls in the Wood Duck with the dog, and the little kids in the Wallops Island. Holy crap, watching the older ones try to go fast in a straight line was funny, but watching the little two was absolutely hilarious! My buddy put it like this: tandem boats are like tandem bikes - whatever direction your relationship is going, a tandem will get you there faster. I really like that Dirigo tandem though...
  14. Mostly everything epoxied on the inside, and back to sanding... Should have been done already, but that how it always goes. Ever forward.
  15. I really like the curvy look of the coaming pulled down tight like that. I was just looking at that picture thinking, "I'm gonna do that on the next one..." and then I read your last post. I think if you just adapt to using the gunwales as your support for getting in / out instead of the coaming, it might grow on you too.
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