Walter T

I will be laying another layer of glass over the chines before I move on with the build. Any screw ups are on me. Wish me luck Walter T

Great The corners have been rounded so I will be wrapping around the transom corners.I have not been able to find any info on glassing the exterior of the transom and weather I should wrap around the corners with no success. I will check out the West System site on this issue. Thanks a bunch. Walter T

That should be, " I am on an adventure "HERE" and am loving it. Have fun Walter T

Thanks for that, 1, Does that mean I should give it more than one coat of epoxy to fill the weave? You can plainly see that I did sand into the fibers. I'm guessing that is not what I should have done. 2, I am also wondering if when I actually do glass the transom if the glass should end flush with the side and bottom panels or if I should wrap it around onto the side and bottom panels. I am guessing not to do this but, I don't know. 3, Same question goes for the glassing of the hull. Should I be wrapping the glass from the hull side and bottom panels over onto the transom or end it flush with the transom? I have to admit that I thought that I was suppose to sand into the fibers to create so a good bond could be made. I'm guessing that I should fill the weave first and then sand so a good bond can be made. Thanks for your input. I am on an adventure hear and am loving it. Thanks again Walter T

Yes I am glassing the entire hull. I am just now putting fiberglass strips around the transom and will try to do a better job of that where I won't have so many bubbles. wish me luck. I am really enjoying the build and hope the have a nice little fishing craft when finished. Thanks Walter T

I'm on a new build that been dragging out for way to long but, I am going full steam ahead now. I am attaching some photos of the chines that I am preparing before I glass the hull.In the photos you will see some white spots,shiny spots and areas that I sanded through the fabric trying to get rid of the spots of concern. I will also include photos of the build to this point. Please leave your thoughts on what I should do with these areas and anything else that may concern you. I don't know how to make the photos turn right side up but...

OK guys I have looked and looked but, I just can't find how the skin is attached to the plywood coaming. I am using the (More Fuselage Frame Boats / A Guide to Building Skin Boats) and can't really find any instruction other than (one of the narrower strip will go on the boat under the skin. ( You need to be careful handling this piece once on the boat because it can break easily.) I have the frame all put together and she looks nice but when I get to the coaming how do I go about pulling the skin tight and holding it in place? Do I staple or stitch it to the top ring or maybe the bottom ring. I know it says that you will pinch the fabric between the top ring and the bottom ring with the screws but, how do you keep it in place while you do this? So, what do you have to say about that? Thanks WT

I'm back at it after a bad, awful accident with a very large martin house that fell from 12' high hitting me on the head and blowing out all of the rotator tendons in my shoulder, all healed up after surgery and ready to go. This my first build from scratch so my question is about the next set stringers just up from the keel stringer. Can't decide if the stringers should go just before the angle up or after. I went by the drawings in the second book by Jeff and put the notches for the stringer before the angle and it looks that may be wrong. It looks like it would be hard to bend the stringers in that position. My second question is, since there is no A dimensions in the plans, I'm assuming that there must be no rocker in this design. Is that correct? I hope you can figure out what I am trying to say about the stringers and the notch placement. Thanks a bunch Walter T

I started on this working on this FreeB for my grand daughter a year or so ago, had a very bad accident and am now back at it. I have drawn out all of the frames, bow and stern but I see no dimensions for the slot, for the keel, in the bow or stern. Is this something I should just cut in on my own or am I missing something? I also don't see any A dimensions for the keel. Does this mean that the keel should be flat with no rocker? The accident was my own doing. I had built a T14 Martin house and when I went to raise it to the top of a 12' pole, it fell from the very top, struck me on the head, smashed me to the ground, giving me a concussion, wrenched neck and a completely blew my out rotator cuff. All's good now but, I'm a little dizzier than ever. Thanks a bunch Wally

Thanks guys; Super helpful. She hasn't been in a skinny boat yet so, we'll start with the FreeB and if needed in the future we'll make the move to a more traditional, faster and narrower kayak. I do enjoy the building process and I am sure this won't be my last build. Wally

I am going to build a FreeB for my grand daughter. She is 19 and maybe 110 pounds. She has paddled the Tupperware Boats and really likes the river trips we have in the area. No white water to worry about. Should we need to worry about weather or not she would need a spray skirt and the ability to roll? Can you roll a FreeB or is it to stable for that? If so, I will try to fine someone to teach the skills needed. l might have to build one for myself (66 years old) too so I can join her on some adventures. We have a lot of lakes and rivers to explore here in Wisconsin. Thank you Wally

Lot's of options........ Thanks

Thanks a bunch. I will check Horton's book out.

Hey kids; I would like a skin on frame boat that I could stand up in. Don't like to sit while fishing and casting. Ideally a boat with a single oar sculling rig and rowing capabilities would be really cool. Something like a small drift boat would work just fine. I like to see where I am going. I will fish small lakes and rivers. Any ideas? Walter T

very nice job Thank you Walter