Jump to content

Walter T

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Walter T's Achievements


Explorer (4/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. OK guys I have looked and looked but, I just can't find how the skin is attached to the plywood coaming. I am using the (More Fuselage Frame Boats / A Guide to Building Skin Boats) and can't really find any instruction other than (one of the narrower strip will go on the boat under the skin. ( You need to be careful handling this piece once on the boat because it can break easily.) I have the frame all put together and she looks nice but when I get to the coaming how do I go about pulling the skin tight and holding it in place? Do I staple or stitch it to the top ring or maybe the bottom ring. I know it says that you will pinch the fabric between the top ring and the bottom ring with the screws but, how do you keep it in place while you do this? So, what do you have to say about that? Thanks WT
  2. I'm back at it after a bad, awful accident with a very large martin house that fell from 12' high hitting me on the head and blowing out all of the rotator tendons in my shoulder, all healed up after surgery and ready to go. This my first build from scratch so my question is about the next set stringers just up from the keel stringer. Can't decide if the stringers should go just before the angle up or after. I went by the drawings in the second book by Jeff and put the notches for the stringer before the angle and it looks that may be wrong. It looks like it would be hard to bend the stringers in that position. My second question is, since there is no A dimensions in the plans, I'm assuming that there must be no rocker in this design. Is that correct? I hope you can figure out what I am trying to say about the stringers and the notch placement. Thanks a bunch Walter T
  3. Walter T


    I started on this working on this FreeB for my grand daughter a year or so ago, had a very bad accident and am now back at it. I have drawn out all of the frames, bow and stern but I see no dimensions for the slot, for the keel, in the bow or stern. Is this something I should just cut in on my own or am I missing something? I also don't see any A dimensions for the keel. Does this mean that the keel should be flat with no rocker? The accident was my own doing. I had built a T14 Martin house and when I went to raise it to the top of a 12' pole, it fell from the very top, struck me on the head, smashed me to the ground, giving me a concussion, wrenched neck and a completely blew my out rotator cuff. All's good now but, I'm a little dizzier than ever. Thanks a bunch Wally
  4. Thanks guys; Super helpful. She hasn't been in a skinny boat yet so, we'll start with the FreeB and if needed in the future we'll make the move to a more traditional, faster and narrower kayak. I do enjoy the building process and I am sure this won't be my last build. Wally
  5. I am going to build a FreeB for my grand daughter. She is 19 and maybe 110 pounds. She has paddled the Tupperware Boats and really likes the river trips we have in the area. No white water to worry about. Should we need to worry about weather or not she would need a spray skirt and the ability to roll? Can you roll a FreeB or is it to stable for that? If so, I will try to fine someone to teach the skills needed. l might have to build one for myself (66 years old) too so I can join her on some adventures. We have a lot of lakes and rivers to explore here in Wisconsin. Thank you Wally
  6. Thanks a bunch. I will check Horton's book out.
  7. Hey kids; I would like a skin on frame boat that I could stand up in. Don't like to sit while fishing and casting. Ideally a boat with a single oar sculling rig and rowing capabilities would be really cool. Something like a small drift boat would work just fine. I like to see where I am going. I will fish small lakes and rivers. Any ideas? Walter T
  8. very nice job Thank you Walter
  9. Great I ideas guys! Thank you Wally
  10. I will need to protect the stem and the keel with some sort of rub strip. I will have a fairly sharp bend to make and would like to know what materials might work for this. I have a bunch of ash and left over cedar. Some folks claim that ash rots quickly and cedar is to soft. Metal, plastic wood.....? Thanks in advance Walter
  11. Beautiful boat!! I will go with Tung oil. Thank you Walter
  12. So.... What would you suggest I use for the wood, brands?? I did a search for real varnish and there's bajillions of them that may or may not be (real) but then, most of the wood will be under the skin with only a little showing around the combing, floor boards and a small transom. Thank you Walter
  13. It is labeled as Marine spar-urethane with an oil modified-urethane and 49.5 percent solids so, it's not the real deal but, I will be using it and we'll see how it goes. Thanks for all the help. Wally
  14. OK folks; I just picked up my spar varnish and was wondering if I should thin the first couple of coats out a little so it will soak in better. Thank you Wally
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.