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lenm

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Everything posted by lenm

  1. Smccormick, Thanks for taking the time to describe all this. Some great ideas, and if you have time to share your laminate diagram that would be much appreciated. I just spoke with the tech rep and looks like we can get hold of a hardner with a 2hr pot life and 8hr thin work time.
  2. Thanks Capriosca, I'm hearing you re heavy fabric and tropical conditions. Did you use a single 1708 or 2208 on the 256? Currently proposing 2 layers of lighter fabrics (with no mat) due to their fast wet out and the way you can stage the pot life. Bottom done first then topside the following day. 1) Mash epoxy into wood with squeegee and wait till tacky. 2) roll out and epoxy a 8oz woven hybrid (0/90) basalt 3) squeegee and wail till tacky 4) roll out and epoxy a 12oz double bias (45/45) eglass 5) Squeegee 6) peel ply Alternatively, just 2 x layers of the 12oz double bias (45/45) As you mention, would be good to hear a more knowledgeable persons opinion, albeit, I've already asked a hundred questions already :-)
  3. Thanks smccormick. Started glassing yesterday (glass tape chines). I dont have a helper so the rest of the hull looks to be a big job to pull off solo. Thats on the notion that everything is chemically bonded. It's got me thinking about breaking it up into smaller sections, with unfortunately, more mechanical bonding (will be mechanically bonding to a peel ply finish). Does anyone have any opinions re mechanical bonding or a good strategy to pull off hull glassing solo?? I cant say i have ever experienced a delamination due to a well prepared mechanical bond, apart from an incident where there was some some surface contamination.
  4. looking great! should have lots of fun with this up in NQ.
  5. Happy new year fellow boat builders and hope everyone has a productive 2018. We are ready for sheathing after a long interruption due to a period of calm oceans and hot ocean currents (great for fishing). Like the GulfStream in the US we get the East Australian Current - funnelling warm water from the Coral Sea along the East coast of Australia.
  6. Further to PAR's suggestions regarding peel ply, I agree with his recommendations re whether to bother with it. I've used it extensively in the manufacture of epoxy windsurfers These boards typically receive a sheathing of 2 layers of 6oz fabric. Be aware with peel ply you can end up with tiny 'pin holes' in the final laminate depending on your methodology. Ie. little voids between the fabric weave. They are a pain to fill and are often invisible until you start laying down paint. I've even had an instance where a pin hole let water into an underlying sandwich core. In summary, be cautious using peel ply if you are going for a thin sheathing layer.
  7. Consider using this stuff too for a clear finish. http://www.nyalic.com Rattle can application is easy. I did the aluminium on my current boat in 2007 and it still looks good as new. The only thing it doesnt like is any sunscreen spilled/ left on it.
  8. Graham, Your tips are priceless, thank you so much, that helps a lot. I shall repay you some day - in the form of a beautiful example of one of your designs on the water. Thanks smccormick, I built the 36" fairing board today with some 60grit. I also tried hooking it up to my shop vac for dust control. It works so well I now don't need to wear a mask! Bolted the vac head to the fairing board and sitting on top of a 1/2" foam (so the board can still bend/flex fair).
  9. re whiskey plank, thanks, I'm glad your build is ahead of mine, yours and some others are certainly setting a standard to aspire to :-)
  10. I though this day would never arrive, the final plank went on this week! Started trimming up the ply edges today and radius the transom corners (a template worked great). Still a little confused re the best way to finish the ply edges along the shear clamp before the glass goes down. I.e. creating the bevel - and how it transitions from the bow to the rear of the boat.
  11. Oyster, may i ask what sort of proportions are you referring to? 3 parts fairing compound to 1 part cabosil?
  12. Thanks Alan for your detailed reply. I tried what you suggested and discovered the highs were voids full of epoxy. I then tried larger pads in conjunction with pressing the sheet down with my hands a bit harder (to help expel any excess/pooling resin) before torquing the screws. Problem solved! Also helped tightening the screw in the middle of the planks first then working outwards (helped squeeze the excess resin out the sides).
  13. Thanks Paul, most of my holes were pre-screwed and surfaces cleaned prior to applying glue. Possibly some debris could be coming off the perimeter of the holes though. After meticulously fairing rib bands and inner layer, its so dissapointing to have the final layer coming out so terrible.
  14. Gents, im having some issues glueing down my 2nd layer of planking. I've dry fitted everything and it feels really nice and fair. However, when i apply glue and screw it down, the result is a bit lumpy upon removing the screws. Not sure whether they are high points between the screws or low points at the screws. Im talking 0.5-1mm and speculating enough to cause a fairing headache. Not sure whether im torqueing the screws down too much? Too much glue or trapped glue? Im getting a good epoxy squeeze-out and using a notched trough to try and apply evenly. And feedback appreciated. Thankyou
  15. Gents, im having some issues glueing down my 2nd layer of planking. I've dry fitted everything and it feels really nice and fair. However, when i apply glue and screw it down, the result is a bit lumpy upon removing the screws. Not sure whether they are high points between the screws or low points at the screws. Im talking 0.5-1mm and speculating enough to cause a fairing headache. Not sure whether im torqueing the screws down too much? Too much glue or trapped glue? Im getting a good epoxy squeeze-out and using a notched trough to try and apply evenly. And feedback appreciated. Thankyou
  16. You are doing a great job with the hatches and waterproofing. Do you have an ideas how to glass the edges of the exposed bulkheads? I though about vac bagging any sharp edges to avoid the need to round them off, then build them up again (e.g. chine edges).
  17. The possums have been a good intermission for my lack of updates :-) How is she looking?
  18. Lotus, also worth considering using a uv stable polycarbonate/lexan as opposed to an acrylic. My current catamaran boat has lower windshield made of acrylic with upper shield made out of polycarbonate. After 10 years of service (offshore fishing) the polycarbonte has outperformed the acrylic in both long term clarity and durability (the acrylic now has a crack, and its thicker than the lexan!).
  19. hehe - I can imagine the fire works when the wife gets home!! :-)
  20. Progress! albeit slow. Went with a meranti bottom, stringers and transom. Test fit of the chine flats today. Onto topsides soon and switching to Joubert Okoume for this, and the remainder of the project. Have started thinking about the glassing. Pondering how many layers to put on the keel for protection/abrasion resistance, yet not cause a fairing nightmare. My regular crew never fail in scraping the bottom of boat at the ramp when I am off getting the vehicle :-)
  21. That colour blue will look nice out in the sun. What paint system did you use?
  22. Thanks for your advise PAR - it allowed me to continue progress today. A few of the planks were already glued down with really tight joints and some glue starvation as you mention. I opened them up with a thin hacksaw blade and refilled with epoxy. I feel better they are properly edge bonded now.
  23. Guys, please can i request some help/advise! I'm well into the planking (1st layers) and i have done such a good job with scribing my plywood planks, they are butting together so tight that i am getting quite a glue starved bond between plank edges. Is this a problem? Is there an ideal gap to aim for? Or not considering the 2nd layer will overlap the joints. Thankyou
  24. Looking really good Lotus! I wish I had such progress to report on. I like the tip re breaking into sections. At least if feels like you are getting somewhere when you can see the results in a particular section. I have never faired a boat before, however I have done heaps of epoxy windsurfers, and in recent times, we have been faring them by 'wet' sanding. Mostly to cut down on the terrible dust and stop sandpaper from clogging. Also seems to 'cut' a bit better. I use mini long board with sanding belt for the sandpaper. They last forever. Use the usual 'guide' coat as well to spot the highs/lows. Could this method be on a boat? At this stage of the project, I wouldn't think waterproofing should be of a concern? I.e. a light spray of water.
  25. Superb! I'm looking at the rib bands and speculating how you are going to finish the inner top sides. Personally, I think either covering them or leaving exposed looks good.
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