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Everything posted by lenm

  1. Howard/Thrillsbe, your woodworking is a work of art! Thanks for sharing your experience with the plywoods. Incidently, I tracked down the source of the Dragon variant. Looks to be of Indonesian origin. http://www.smip.co.id Considering everyones suggestions, im happy to make a decision now. Going with mostly okoume (to save weight) though using the red meranti in a few select areas (for toughness/durability and looks!) such as the bottom. Hoop pine keel and ribands.
  2. Great work - given you rate of progress, could this be the first OC 256 to be launched? :-)
  3. Great thread alright. I sincerly appreciate your detailed responses Graham, PAR and others, you have been most helpful.
  4. Hi Alex, yep building a small boat (Ocracoke 20). Everywhere I read on Australian sites recommends not to substitute AS2272 ply with BS1088 (see below example - last line). But to pay over $260 for a piece of 12mm hoop pine vs $124 for a reputable Meranti is a huge difference, which leads me back to my original query being is the local product THAT much better, or just a case of our expensive local manufacturing costs.. Marine Plywood Marine plywood manufactured to AS/NZS 2272 Plywood – Marine is a purpose built structural plywood, intended for use in hulls of boasts and other marine application and also in aircraft construction. It has a permanent Type A Phenolic bond and is manufactured from selected species based on density, bending strength, impact resistance and surface finishing characteristics. None of the marine species are naturally durable and preservative treatment of marine plywood used in some marine environments. Marine plywood to AS/NZS 2272 is made from selected species and therefore has known and consistent structural properties. The assigned stress grade of plywood manufactured to AS/NZS 2272 is F14. Marine plywood to AS/NZS 2272 has two A grade faces and a Type A bond. In the Australian / New Zealand Standards grading system it therefore has a grading of AA‐A bond Note that marine plywood manufactured to BS 1088, as imported into Australia, does not have predictable structural performance and must not be substituted for AS/NZS 2272 marine plywood. For assured performance marine plywood should be branded with the ‘EWPAA Tested’ marine plywood stamp.
  5. The Sapele sounds like a nice option for finishing the transom! I purchased a couple of sheets today of the Meranti for assessment. It is the Hydrotek brand. Has anyone tried this? Certainly looks ok as far as finish and voids go. Might do a boil test with it.
  6. Many thanks for the comments so far. Drew, your review of the meranti is promising Alex, I fully agree what are saying re skimping on materials. I guess i am more trying to establish if there is a point where throwing more dollars at something does not necessarily gain benefits. In my case, building the entire rig out of premium grade hoop pine ply. Perhaps same could be said for sheathing. I have a 30m roll of kevlar fabric leftover from another project, however, using it for the sheathing may be an expensive waste. PAR, you make a good point re toughness and choosing/optimising timber species. i think i might try hoop pine on the bottom and top sides (for toughness), meranti stringers and bulkheads. Okoume on the interior (e.g console, floor etc) to save weight.
  7. Gents, I've been pondering lately re plywood in a cost / benefit sense. I guess purchasing the best quality plywood is always a good rule to live by, however, it comes at a premium price, and perhaps overkill? Is there any particular parts of the boat which you could consider utilising a lesser quality variant to keep a project more economical? Bulkheads? Topsides? Over her in Australia we have a few choices - Red Meranti (certified BS standard) - Gaboon (certified BS standard) - Hoop pine which has a local industry standard exceeding the BS standard (both structural and quality). Hoop pine has similar properties to Douglas Fir I believe. The Red Meranti is half the price of the Hoop Pine! with the Gaboon sitting somewhere in the middle. Thanks Len
  8. I am currently building an Ocracoke 20 and have never built a vessel before. Im not finding it too challenging so far, mostly because of the good plans and the helpful people on here. I am enjoying the build. I get a little frustrated trying to find a decent block of time to work on it (i have a young family). The other is dealing with epoxy. Its messy. Work clean and safe from the outset. You should be able to minimise the need to 'sand' it if you work smart. Other than that go for it if you enjoy 'projects' such as your recent tinnie fittout.
  9. Sound good Robert - be sure to put up a pic when completed.
  10. Thanks and thanks Re epoxy - will keep under cloak during the day. I started marking out some more parts today. Discovered a small glass cutting wheel works great for making super accurate tracing over the mylar template. I.e. The ones used for stained glass/lead lighting.
  11. There never seems to be a shortage of 'show stoppers' to slow progress of my 20! I lost my boat work area (garage) earlier this year (to a classic car) and had to construct an outdoor shelter and move the boat build. Thought I might share this incase anyone is thinking about building an inexpensive shelter for a project. Asymmetrical bow frame structure made out of decking planks, galvanised roof battens and polycarbonate roof sheeting. just need to close off the ends now.
  12. Thanks for your suggestions PAR.
  13. Hi PAR, do you have a particular tool/method you use to make the scribing easy? I.e. so adjoining panels mate with minimal gaps.
  14. Hi joe, sorry for the late reply. There are a couple of options with respect to this. Basically you need to engage a 'qualified' person to sign the paperwork for lodgement. A 'qualified' person can be someone such as a marine surveyor, or even the outboard dealer who fits the outboard. I am having a surveyor go over mine, he is going to do two inspections, the first when the ribs are all complete, then a final inspection/sign off. You don't really need a builders plate, however it may become problem if you ever try to sell the boat. Probably best for insurance reasons as well. Len
  15. Makes all the hard work seem worthwhile x 2 when you look at this. Its a credit to you and thanks for sharing.
  16. Looking good there Trev. A nice milestone-Thanks for sharing the pics.
  17. Sounds good Trev, look forward to your update + pics. Len
  18. Hi Trev, yes I would think an OB would be a great rig for your region. Are you going to incorporate a basic sun shade in substitute for a full cabin?
  19. Hi Grahame, many thanks for looking over this plus your detailed explanation. I get what you are saying in regards to the bearding line. Can I say that this should be one sweet design for around here, and I suspect a real head turner given its beautiful lines and dimensions/layout. As you would be aware having spent time over here, 'flare' and 'tumblehome' is unique, and something only really seen on the odd rare US imported 35ft plus gamefisher (which we all drool over). Hi ken, I am located in South East Queensland.
  20. Hi all, Len from OZ. Excited to be building hull #39. This should be quite a challenge as I have not actually built a vessel before! I am hoping my skills in epoxy/composites (windsurfer construction) and measurements (surveyor) will get me over the line, in conjunction with Grahame's good plans:-) and hopefully some advise from experienced builders on this forum. Planning to setup the boat for my favourite fishing being saltwater fly fishing and light tackle game fishing. It will replace my current 15 foot catamaran which has been in service for close to a decade now. Jumped straight in and started roughing up a 1/10 scale model so I can get my head around the design.
  21. Many Thanks for clarifying that Grahame. I though I might be missing a plan showing a vertical/height dimension for each bulkhead/station. I have now found that jig line you mention, marked on the full size template. That's even easier! Looking forward to getting things underway and will post a thread of the build soon. Len
  22. Adios, many thanks for sharing your build and also others who have contributed. Please Can anyone comment on how the bulkheads are best lined up accurately (in vertical height). Is the keel set up nice and level/horizontal, and then the bulkheads hung in underneath? I note there is only one vertical dimension shown on the plans (being the distance from the top of the jig to the top of the keel). I can see the last couple of bullheads are sitting well above the jig. FYI I am the owner of plans for hull number 39 (Ockracoke 20) ready to start building soon.
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