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HighDesert last won the day on August 4 2017

HighDesert had the most liked content!

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About HighDesert

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  1. Outer Banks 26 #1

    Very nice, Ken...amazing, actually. You're gonna love her for a long time.
  2. Chick's Micro Power Cruiser Project.

    I envy and appreciate the knowledge stored up by you and PAR and all the others. I may have started late and progressing slowly, but I have no deadline and there's nothing else (most of the time) I would rather be doing. And who knows, when this boat is complete, Utah might be a sea again.
  3. Chick's Micro Power Cruiser Project.

    Wow, you've been building boats for fifty years? Believe me Chick, it shows. Fifty years ago, I was in Viet Nam. Boat building was not part of my universe then...or for forty nine of the fifty years since. But I'm hooked now; and you're my guru. Late at night, when everyone is asleep, I sneak into a dark room, turn on the computer and drool over the photos of your OB20 #1 on the B and B website. My goal in life is to complete a boat that is somewhat recognizable as the same kind of boat. Carter
  4. Midnight wondering from the Ch. Mate

    Pretty, pretty boat. A follow-up question to his #5. I have a friend in the millwork business that gave me tons (literally) of Sapele. It's tailings and off-cuts from a huge project. Not very big in dimension (1x1 and 1x2, or less), but most of it is sixteen feet long. Is there any reason not to use it anywhere on a boat? So far, I have steam bent it and used it for ribs on my OB20 build. It seems to split, if my screws aren't right in the middle, but that's my fault and would probably occur no matter what species.
  5. Utah OB20

    PAR, thank you. I understand and I'm on it. Ken, mental health services? Up until a few weeks ago, all I needed was an hour or so in the gym, or maybe a little Pickleball with some other old people. Now I sand.
  6. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    I just looked at your rowing wherry...It's incredibly beautiful. Love following your OC256, too.
  7. Utah OB20

    You rate it for sure, but I think sending it to you might be considered bootlegging in Utah. Strict laws here, otherwise I'd be making gin. You just might need to make the trip...for the beer and the boat ride. A better route than the one I mentioned before would be to head west until your smell weed. That's Colorado; keep going. I'll talk you in (down?) from there. More seriously, on your blogspot, you discuss leveling and smoothing as the two parts of fairing. You also talk about using a spray can/sanding technique to help with leveling. I'm guessing that 95% of the leveling should occur before any epoxy/fiberglassing and the spray can/sanding trick comes afterward. Correct, or do you do the spray can trick during the earlier leveling on raw wood? I probably should be too embarrassed to let anyone see the photo below, but I guess I have no pride at all any more. After installing all the hull panels, I identified all of what I considered to be the "hard" spots and went after them with my random orbital sander to "save time". Holy Hell, what a job I created for myself. My wife asked if we were going to name this boat Mr. Potato. The second picture doesn't really tell the story, but after days with the longboard, it's much better now. I love this hobby.
  8. Utah OB20

    That settles it; no Peel Ply for this guy. Well cool. When "we finish up your boat", can we get free beers and the occasional ride too . . . PAR, this may be a good deal for you. I've been brewing beer for a lot longer than I've been building boats. I'm easy to find. "Just head west, until you get to the Rocky Mountains, then turn right...Pilgrim." Not exactly accurate, but I've been wanting to say that for years.
  9. Utah OB20

    You guys are awesome, thank you. I know just how I am going to proceed. Drink, curse, screw-up, drink, curse, learn, adjust, drink, smile...next problem. Having this forum is like having friends help you build your boat. Maybe even better, my friends don't have a clue how to build a boat.
  10. Utah OB20

    Keen, thanks for the tips and photos. I've followed your progress; your boat is beautiful and your incredible metal work makes it very special. I thought I might not need to post with questions again, until selecting paint products and techniques, but not so lucky. I've read that some people feel strongly about pre-coating the hull with resin before laying the glass and some don't think it's necessary. Regarding the pre-coat "dry" method, is it necessary to cure, sand and clean the pre-coat resin before laying the fabric, or is it feasible to think one could catch it in the window between tacky and fully cured? I also read about Peel Ply somewhere on the forum. Some people (a few...maybe it's a very new product) say it's revolutionary and will never do another project without it. Others say it's expensive and not worth the bother. I'm thinking the whole boat needs to be thoroughly sanded before painting anyway...and possibly between subsequent coats of epoxy;. Does it really save that much time? For one reason, or another, I've lived my life doing most everything the difficult, slow and frequently not-so-smart way, but I'm open to a sanding short-cut, if there really is one. Carter
  11. Outer Banks 26 #1

    Ken, First you inspire us, then you scare the heck out of us and now you're inspiring us again. So glad you're doing better. Where would we be without those women watching after us? Take care and take it easy, but don't quit. Carter
  12. Utah OB20

    I knew I could count on you guys for great comments and suggestions. Much that I hadn't considered. Thank you. I'll continue punishing that longboard as I contemplate exactly how I want to proceed with the stem. There'll for sure be paint and painting questions later.
  13. Utah OB20

    The side planking is now complete on my OB20 and I've started pre-fiberglass fairing. I've never used a longboard before, but I had a pretty good mental image of how to use it. One thing my mental image did not include was how much work is was to use it. Good grief, that thing works every muscle from your toes up! I was using standard 17" rigid and flexible items, until Alan Stewart recommended making a longer one. Good advise, it really works. In the right light the hull looks perfect; in the wrong light not so much...yet. There was a lot of bend and twist in those forward planks, but it's come a long way. One thing I regret doing was filling screw holes and plank seams with the hardened epoxy squeezed out from the plank laminating. I think it has made my fairing more difficult. Next time, I would use a softer fairing compound, or wait to fill those spots, until the fairing is nearly complete. I read as many of your posts as I can, but I still feel like I'm faking it most of the time. A question regarding the stem profile. I may have made it too blunt. Alan says it should be okay with a half round metal strip on it. Any other comments on this issue would be appreciated. I don't mind doing the extra work to build it back up, if that's the correct thing to do. Thanks, Carter
  14. Utah OB20

    GAP333, Thanks for asking some of the questions I've been pondering and thanks for posting it on my thread. I might have missed it otherwise. I'm just completing the side planking on my boat and will be fairing and glassing this winter. I guess these projects all look pretty much the same, but I'm posting a current photo. Are there photos of your build? How about your build JP? I've poked around on the forum a little, but I haven't seen pictures of any OB20 builds, besides Chicks, which are fantastic, and another early one by the Bacons in Montana, which are also very good and include lots of early construction shots. Thanks again to Paul, Don and JP. Carter
  15. Utah OB20

    Good advise, thanks. I used most of it. I have completed the planking on one side of the boat using screws with plywood pads and screws only for fasteners and I'm pretty happy with it. Slower than the plastic staples, but I liked watching the screws snug the planks up to each other and to the stringers, plus squeeze a little glue out. It left screw holes, but they were easy to deal with. Besides JP's notched scraper to trowel the thickened epoxy around, I liked his idea of cutting the planks a little more narrow than specified, which helped. I also tapered the last few planks at the bow just a bit to accommodate the complex bending up there. So far, the most difficult task has been crawling up, under and inside the hull to clean the squeeze-out from the planks and stringers. This is a very large and challenging project for me and I appreciate your comments and tips. PAR (I figured out your name is Paul), I just discovered (and read) the Tips and Tricks link on the signature block of your postings. Thank you. It's very generous for a professional boat builder to spend the time to assemble a do-it-yourself manual for the rest of us. Carter

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