mitchmellow

Sorry, post #11.

Take a look at post 14 of this thread: http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/8729-tadpole-kids-kayak/?hl=stringer#entry75733 . I couldn't get the address to copy and paste to this post so I hope I typed it correctly. If not, search "cutting stringers" and you will find it. It's a description of how Woodman cut his stringers at the bow of a kayak.

Although I used the 8 oz. recycled fabric I had similar questions and some of the responses may help you. There was a detailed response about calibrating the iron that was especially helpful. Good luck. Here's the link to my post: http://www.messing-about.com/forums/topic/8680-heat-shrinking-question/

I have only built one boat (a freeb). I sewed the top seam fore and aft first, then the coaming. There were wrinkles at the coaming that I was worried about (I posted some pictures) but they all ironed out. The post is here: http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/8680-heat-shrinking-question/

Jeff - for similar length kayaks aren't resistance/ease of paddling and speed be linked? My inexperienced votes would be: 1. Resistance 2. Stability 3. Weight 4. Speed For myself, weight is really not an issue for any of your kayaks. Most appear to be 35 lb. and under. That is incredibly light and can be easily handled for transport etc.

Jeff - The final tying off of each lashing really tightened the joint. Any concerns there? My guess is I could feed a loop under the lashings and pass the dowel/spool through the loop to tie it off and pull it tight it but I'm porbably over thinking. Lashing was one of the more enjoyable parts of the project for me but it was time consuming and speeding it up would be nice. I was also miserable at getting the stopper knot close to the lashing so I wouldn't miss that part.

You can find examples/tutorials for rope lips at http://www.yostwerks.com and http://www.skinboats.org . If you look back in this forum Jeff did a rope lip on his first Vardo. I believe he described it and showed some pictures.

Gary, Although I am an inexperienced, recreational kayaker I think Jeff's advice for the lightest sturdy paddle in your price range may be spot on. In searching the net I have come up with buyer's guides you may find helpful: http://www.kayakonline.com/choosing_a_paddle.html ; http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/kayak-paddle.html . You may find them interesting in making your choice. Two things that come to mind: 1. The GP seems to be a pretty "wet" paddle and you have a big open cockpit for water to run down into. I think a euro has a tendency to be slightly less wet (I'm referring to water running down the shaft from the blade suspended in the air and flowing over your hands into the cockpit). 2. It appears that euro paddles of the lighter, more exotic materials meet and exceed the price of a GP. So the lower end euro's are all aluminum shaft with plastic blades and the brand probably doesn't matter much. P.S. There are experienced kayakers out there who have used the euro and the GP and see advantages in the euro. Of course, they are talking about the high priced. exotic material versions.

Must not have gotten the duckworks address right. Here's another attempt: http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/07/howto/skin/index.htm

Sorry to dig up the can (slightly at least) but here are a couple of references that might interest you. The first is from Duckworks: http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/07/howto/skin/index/htm . The second is from kayak forum: http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Building/archive.pl/bid/13/md/read/id/193480/sbj/skin-on-frame-fiberglass-on-cloth/ . Working with fiberglass is messy and not to my liking but different strokes for different folks.

I should learn to be a little more descriptive. As I understand it, the length of the scarf joint should be 6 inches. Because you are making an angled cut to create the joining surface for the scarf, the actual cut will be slightly longer than 6 inches. This may be somewhat academic. Many recommend above waterline scarfs that are 6 to 1. I have also found this interesting post: http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Building/index.cgi/md/read/id/210618/sbj/skin-on-frame-scarf-joint-ratio/ .

A six inch cut would be correct. I set the angle by trial and error and I'm not sure I ever looked at how many degrees it was. It was small and 9 is probably correct. My non-sliding 10 inch miter won't do a completely finished 6 inch cut and the one "corner" of the cut has to be cleaned up a little.

Found this on MSN. Finally, a good use for Tupperware!?!?

Greetings Wolfman. I've also only built one boat but used the recycled polyester. I don't see how a primer would stop the fibers from standing up. I think they get pulled up mechanically by the roller and paint. I'm pretty sure the results would be the same with a primer. Others have suggested spraying and that would likely solve it. However, I don't mind the finish at all. It is not shiny and smooth but after the sanding it is fairly uniform and similar to suede. I've posted some previous pictures and you'll have to search for them. The bottom line is if you want a smooth and shiny finish, pick another fabric. I can't speak to colors bleeding through.

Amazing!!! More of an "aw sh**" moment.

Type 1 and 2 adhesives are ANSI/HPVA designations. Type 1 is very resistant to moisture. Marine plywood is always Type 1 adhesive. See a description of the tests at this site: http://www.experts123.com/q/what-is-the-difference-between-the-ansi-hpva-type-i-and-type-ii-water-resistance-specification.html . Here is a description of many of the adhesives: http://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/FNR/FNR-154.pdf . Although Baltic birch made with type 2 adhesive is structurally stronger than domestic plywood, it's adhesive is not as water resistant/proof as marine plywood or Baltic birch made with type 1 adhesives. As you said, caveat emptor!

Also, in looking at a few websites for Baltic birch specs I find that often the 5 x5 sheets use Type 2 urea formaldehyde glue ( water resistant but still sometimes called exterior as in domestic exterior plywoods) while the 4 x 8 sheets use Type 1 phenolic glue (described as waterproof). However, this is not totally consistent.

In addition, not all Baltic birch uses Type 1 phenolic waterproof glue. I have found examples on the internet that specify Type 2 formaldehyde water resistant glue. Type 1, as in the Menards example, would be preferable.

1. I didn't experience any splintering. 2. I feel it was relatively safe because the stringer material was clamped in place. 3. If I were taking a knot out of the center of a stringer I would cross cut on each side of it at a 90 degree angle and then miter the two ends for gluing. I'd probably be losing a little more material but it would work. 4. This was a good option for me but you still need some capability to cut your stock into stringer material. My guess is the table saw is best for this. A circular saw can be substituted as described on the Yostwerks website but it looks somewhat tedious to me and requires buying more stuff I don't need. An hour with a friend and his table saw is a better idea.

In answer to Jeff's question, the lumbar region is approximately from the beltline to several inches above. The lowest portion would get the most stress and benefit most from the support of the back band. However, as with all things human, there is quite a bit of variability.

I've read a little on this forum about back problems associated with kayaking. My trade is physical therapy so I thought I could add a little knowledge. I've also found when working with various industries that the person doing the job has often found the best solutions. Therefore, hopefully the collective wisdom of this forum can help others. Sitting on your butt with your legs out straight (often called the longsitting position) is not common to modern society. It puts a premium on adequate hamstring length. The hamstrings originate on the pelvis and attach below the knee. They therefore cross two joints (hip and knee) and when the knees are straight while the hips are flexed they are put on maximum stretch. When our tight hamstrings can't accommodate this position they transfer some of the stress "up the chain" to the low back. The low back is pulled into flexion and it doesn't like that position so it complains. In other words, if you can't touch your toes in standing you won't be very comfortable in the longsitting position of most kayaks. You'll be quite comfortable if you can place your hands flat on the floor while standing and bending forward. So if you can't touch your toes you should be stretching (I won't include any specific stretches because you can google a ton of suggestions.). Although good hamstring length is the ultimate solution, there are other more immediate positioning answers to alleviate some of the strain. One is to maintain some flexion/bend in the knees if the cockpit will allow. Footrests could be positioned to encourage this. Another would be to assume a more reclined position at the waist/hips. The leaning backward takes the strain off the back. I'm not sure it is possible, but moving the seat forward so you are more reclined would help. Another help is to make sure your back band supports you at the low back. I'm anxious to hear what the more experienced kayakers with this problem have come up with.

USNGMG2, what is your connection to the Skyraider? One of the most beautiful, functional recip. aircraft built. R3350, tons of load/armament capacity, fuel to loiter over target.

Beautiful boat! Are those wire ties for lashings?

Touche, Bcone1381! I couldn't have said it better (actually, I couldn't have said it). Great laugh. And thanks for the vote and wonderful sportsmanship, Rich D. I just couldn't resist. Was simply meant in fun. You all make this a wonderful forum.

I believe that Professor Irwin P. Corey may have said the slight turbulence created by the bifurcated bow ionizes the water and the negativity of the ionized H2O results in an infinitesimal magnetic field that is repellant to the hull material thereby reducing resistance and producing a small retropulsive force at the stern resulting in a small additive propulsive effect that increases the efficiency of the occupant. He also theorized that the ionization of the H2O adjacent to the hull has a attractive gathering effect on certain ocean fish and mammals. But I could be wrong.