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mitchmellow last won the day on July 20 2016

mitchmellow had the most liked content!

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About mitchmellow

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    Central MInnesota

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  1. All the best Jeff!! Take the time you need for a full recovery.
  2. Kudo's Dad!!! Great pictures. Really building memories there.
  3. You mentioned 2 coats. Was the first coat thinned? Allow enough drying time between coats? I used Rustoleum on the only boat I've built. Adhesion was not a problem. I applied 3 coats with the first thinned. I did use different polyester cloth. Your picture makes me think you did not get good adhesion with the first coat.
  4. That is beautiful! Put it upside down on saw horses in your garage. Put a trouble light or the like inside the hull and turn off the lights. You'll be able to see all the pinholes. Then you can make a decision about another coat or some just rolling over the holes. Again, that is a fantastic pain scheme.
  5. If you search this forum you will find numerous discussions of Baltic birch. It has become the gold standard, so to speak. Personally, I think that is primarily due to the structural integrity (number of plies, quality of wood used in the plies and no voids or plugs). I have seen some descriptions of it that specify water proof glue(type 1 phenolic) and others that specify water resistant glue(type 2). I believe that some in this forum have used the water resistant and not had any problems. In reality, the frames seldom spend any time submersed in water and if they are they dry out relatively quickly after the event. In my mind the structural integrity is the more important characteristic. Good luck in your search.
  6. I find it interesting that in the examples shown the bubbling is over the wood stringers. The rest of the fabric looks tight so it doesn't appear to be a general loosening of the fabric. Did both builders use WRC? WRC is known for not having much pitch. However, I have read some descriptions of old growth WRC having "oily extractions", whatever that is. I'm guessing some kind of reaction between the painted fabric and the wood although I have nothing concrete to back that up. It would be interesting to hear what wood Tim E and Abbysdncr used. If the first coat of pain is thinned, could it also adhere the fabric to the wood? Could this be a factor? Tim E did not thin the first coat. What about you Abbysdncr?
  7. No one has mentioned the economy 6 oz. polyester Jeff sells at $3 a foot. I have not used it but I'm sure someone who has will wade in. Jeff has this disclaimer on his site: "DRAWBACKS - We have sold a good bit of this and the feedback we are receiving is the fabric is hard to seal because of the loose weave. After 3 coats of paint there are lots of pin holes so it is taking several coats of paint to seal the weave. Also, the loose weave it harder to work with than other fabrics." Could be a great compromise for the OP.
  8. If you do a search of this forum for paulownia you will find it discussed and/or mentioned a number of times. It appears a number of people have used it successfully.
  9. Sorry. For some reason I can't copy and paste an address here. So here goes: http://www.messing-about.com/forums/topic/8680-heat-shrinking-question/
  10. I built a FreeB 14 and had similar problems around the coaming with the recycled poly. The thread is here: http://www.messing-about.com/forum/topic/8680-heat-shrinking-question/ . You might benefit from calibrating your iron to be sure it is hot enough. Bcone1381 described how to calibrate an iron in the thread. The iron I used was way too cool at a low setting. After getting the iron hot enough I was able to get all the wrinkles out. The only caveat is that the recycled poly really shrinks well.
  11. Rustoleum safety yellow on the FreeB:
  12. If you wander the web you'll find the topic of improving the skin strength/abrasion resistance/puncture resistance of skin boats many times. Dave Gentry was working PL Premium (a polyurethane construction adhesive) into the fabric in areas of potential abrasion. He believed it helped but I have not seen it quantified. Ross Miller has an article on Duckworks describing a dacron/xynole/epoxy layered covering ( http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/07/howto/skin/index.htm ). I don't think he says anything about how much weight it adds. Bill Hamm has used 4 oz. cloth covered with 4 oz. fiberglass and resin ( http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Building/archive.pl/bid/13/md/read/id/193480/sbj/skin-on-frame-fiberglass-on-cloth/ ). Again, I've not seen any info on how much it improved the integrity of the skin and how much weight it adds. There's a thread on the Kayak Forum about Kevlar ( http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Building/archive.pl/bid/11/md/read/id/50919/sbj/kevlar-skin-on-frame/ ). I believe it is just a discussion among members and doesn't draw any real conclusions. It's hard to say how successful any of these methods are. It seems it would be an individual decision. You can only change the inherent characteristics of the method so much and still have a skin on frame kayak.
  13. I have only completed one boat(a freebee 14). I used the older fuzzy cloth and rustoleum (although not the marine line). I thinned the first coat and then added 2 more coats straight from the can. The fuzzy cloth soaked up paint like a sponge. I had the same issue of leaky pinholes and used the same method of putting a light inside the boat to see them. I didn't worry about the deck and focused on the bottom and sides with the boat turned over on sawhorses. I simply brushed or rollered over the hole. I can see some of the spots I went over but I figured it was the bottom of the boat and didn't really care about the appearance. I did it at night with the garage lights off so the pinholes would really stand out. I was able to see when it filled in. It took 2-3 sessions with a trip to the lake in between each to get them all but perseverance paid off.
  14. If you try it, please post your opinion of the method. Good luck!
  15. DISCLAIMERS: I have only built one SOF kayak and have never done the two cord stitch. I ran across the following web site. The author is stitching cotton duck onto the frame and uses an interesting method to tighten and hold the skin before stitching. It involves some cord/string and short pieces of small dowel to tighten the skin. Perhaps you could experiment with this method to take some of the strain off your hand. Here's the address: http://www.pdxtex.com/canoe/kayak3.htm .
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