GaryMinor

I have looked at kayak paddles at West Marine and Dick's Sporting Goods. Both look the same, but neither have the diamond shape mentioned by Jeff in a recent post. I really don't want to build my own paddles. Are the commercial ones any good. This kayak will be used for casual "Messing About" Gary in Wake Forest.

I've just finished painting my Mess About 15, and am ready to apply the brass strip over the stem and stern. I now realize that the roll stitching will be a problem. At first I thought that I could flatten the fabric and lay the strip over the seam. Now that it is painted, that doesn't look like that will work. I can either leave the roll stitching exposed and start the brass strip below it, or I could remove the roll stitching and do some different (flatter) stitching. If I keep just the first pass flat stitching, and trim the excess to just 1/4 ", I could lay the fabric back on itself and use staples to help hold the fabric to the wood. A bit of paint may seal it. Then the brass strip would lay flat against the stapled fabric. Is this reasonable or is there a better way? Gary in Wake Forest

I had an adjustable footrest bolted to pieces of wood tied between stringers. I didn't notice that a bolt was loose until after I skinned it. This was before it was shrunk and painted. I was able to open the weave of the 8 oz. polyester just enough to make a hole for a screwdriver to tighten the bolt. I was able to push the weave back in place and the hole was never there! This may be helpful. Gary in Wake Forest

Where should I start the brass strip? Jeff, I notice that you started the strip at the deck in the above posting. Did you use a stitch different than the roll stitch? I considered starting mine at the bottom of the roll stitching. I figure that the roll stitching would interfere with the brass strip. Gary in Wake Forest.

Jeff, Thanks. Sometimes I'm reading challenged. Gary

I am ready to paint my Mess About 15. It's covered with 8oz Polyester. I'm using Rust-oleum professional. What thinner should I use for the first coat? I've seen where Jeff uses acetone. It seems that this may dry faster than I want. Mineral spirits may be another good choice. Gary in Wake Forest

I'm building a Mess About 15, and have started with the covering. I'm using 8 oz. Polyester Fabric.. I used pushpins down the keel, turned it over am ready to sew. I had a hard time handling the fabric, so I used pushpins on the gunnels to make the fabric cover the bottom smoothly. That seems to work well. However, the fabric between the gunnel and the center of the deck doesn't want to lay flat. I realize that the boat is not flat, and something has to give. To help figure where to place the fabric, I used pushpins along the center stringer of the deck. I'm working with only the aft deck. There is some bunching up of the fabric along the center stringer, but I think it will tighten up when I apply heat. Now the chore is to sew the fabric and have it stay in place where it is pinned. As I sew, the fabric wants to slide aft, where the boat is narrower. This of course makes it bunch up. I've only sewed about 30% of the way from the cockpit toward the stern, but I don't expect to be able to continue. Having covered many model airplanes over the years, I would love to try using dope and staples, at least to attach the fabric to the frame. Then I could use heat to shrink the fabric, and enamel to make it waterproof. Frustrated in Wake Forest

Since it is suggested that the corners of the stringers are rounded, I don't see the need of square inside corners on the frames. I did learn that it's worth the effort to cut as near to the line as possible. Sanding to shape is a lot more effort. Sanding to a somewhat near shape may be acceptable. Gary

Watch out! 8-4/16 feet is 8'3" not 8'4"

Has anybody used aircraft dope? I'm talking about the stuff that is used on fabric covered light planes. If it doesn't work, why.

Jeff, I am ready to cover my Mess About 15. Can I add the float bags after covering or should I postpone the covering until the bags are available? Gary in Wake Forest

Jon, I would try to shift the position where the stringers attach to the bow assembly. That is, the frame and bow piece. You will have to undo the lashings that hold the stringers to the assembly. Straighten the stringers on one side, and add curve to stringers on the other side. This will shift the stringers, fore and aft, along the edge of the frame and the surface of the bow piece. Then lash them securely in place. To illustrate this, hold your arms extended straight in front of you, with palms together. As you move both arms together from left to right, the palms will shift from front to back. Disclaimer----- I am more of an engineer than I am a boat builder. This "seems to me" to be a workable idea. I lack the experience that the professionals like Jeff have to offer. Gary in Wake Forest

Jeff, I've viewed the three part videos Skinning Polyester and the video on the double cord stitching. I noticed that the double cord method is demonstrated with heavy fabric, but you mention that it will work well with lighter fabric also. Is this restricted to nylon or will it work well with 8 oz. polyester? Gary in Wake Forest

I am installing the adjustable footrest from Kudzucraft. My initial placement is too close. It seems that the knee is bent up more than I think is optimal. I need to know how much the leg is bent for the proper placement. I would guess that a slight knee bend is preferred. I don't think that the leg should be straight. After the footrest is in place, the next step is skinning. I'm looking forward to that. Gary in Wake Forest

Thanks to all responders. I'll see what the local mill outlet has in stock. Jeff, you may be getting an order from me.