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Jay Lancaster

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Jay Lancaster last won the day on June 24

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  1. Thank you very much for your answer, Mr. Graham. In the past, I would have talked with our friend Buck about these design intricacies over lunch (since I fed him nearly every day of the week) ... but none of us have that pleasure any more. It, apparently, is more optical illusion than anything else. I can't imagine a better example than what Len has produced. Thank you for your information.
  2. I have a question about this specific design. Most of these 20s look to have the sheer break close to mid-ship. But a couple, this one included, seems to have the break about 1/3 from the stern (as they should). I always think the break is too far forward, but lenm's example here is absolutely perfect. I think Shay built one that had the sheer pulled back also...not sure. So the question is, are there two different plans? The boat in this thread is as fine an example as has been presented.
  3. I like that you filled between the strips/side stringers. Some folks leave them as-is or they sheet over them leaving the interior hollow. The foam core adds a ton of strength with minor weigh penalty. It's a good strategy. A good friend of mine builds his sportfishing boats that same way.
  4. Beautiful rig. That is also one huge top on there!
  5. Typing from the bleachers here... One of the main advantages of using carbon is for weight savings. The stuff is very expensive in comparison to glass. To me, it doesn't make sense to use carbon (especially alot of it) in a hand layup. Unless you are very good at epoxy work, you are almost assured to use too much resin...which will negate the weight savings you were hoping to get from the carbon in the first place. I feel that carbon fiber should be bagged in order to gain it's full advantage. My other "issue" with it is the fact that it's so stiff. One of the best attributes of a wood boat is how it rides in comparison to a "glass" boat. It just seems that some of that soft wood feel would be lost with carbon in the hull skin. Maybe that's the wrong way of thinking, I don't know. With all that said, you can get an aramid/eglass blend that might work better for you. I suspect that it would be less expensive than the carbon weave. Regardless, you may want to consider adding glass over top just so you don't have to deal with sanding over aramid.
  6. Trim tabs will give you the performance enhancement you're looking for. Yes, it's alot more work than bolting on a fin...but it's a better alternative in my opinion.
  7. It's not just the light weight of cold molding the boat...it's that she has a bottom that's easy to shove.
  8. Good to know that monofilament on the dock trick is alive & well. Ours fell off a while back...need to get it back up.
  9. Nice looking job. With those built in reverse chines you should not need to add spray rails (add on chines). That's pretty much redundant if you do.
  10. Where will you be staying? Remley's Point is a good ramp with plenty of parking. Shem Creek is popular, but parking is a bear. There are other public ramps...just depends on where you are going to be.
  11. Agreed. The styling cues are common...and just like the lines of a Carolina hull, there's only so many ways to integrate a bracket.
  12. Looks awesome! Post up some #s once you get them.
  13. . This is what I've seen done countless times. Thanks. I mentioned this a while back on another boat building forum and was blasted for even suggesting that any faring material go under the glass. I shook my head & kept quiet (which is a struggle for me...).
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