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Everything posted by acreew

  1. Thank you Graham, I will look for the cross section in the plans and also dry fit some planks to get a better idea. I will be in touch. Thanks again. Will
  2. Hello all, I have dry fitted the last stringer on the sheer clamp (previous two were already installed.) There is a significant at least 1/4 inch overlap Of the recently added stringer. The overlap occurs mostly at the forward temporary frame and forward bulkhead. Prior to gluing the stringer in place I wanted to get your input as to whether this is to be expected or how to fix this issue. The new stringer Is touching all internal frames. Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. Well
  3. Thank you Oyster for the very detailed response. I do plan on getting the raptor gun and staples. Below is the section of the dutch ob 20 thread talking about adding glass to the planking: Before I put the plywood on the hull, I provided the inside with a thin layer of glass fabric (100 gr/ m). So the bodum is from the inside out glass and 9 mm plywood The side is made of two layers of 4 mm plywood with a layer of glass on the inside of each layer
  4. Hello everyone, I purchased a partially completed OB20 hull and am pondering next steps. Read on build thread (Dutch OB20) where the builder apparently alternated glass between the planks (glass/plank/glass/plank) when planking the sides. (tried to contact Jan directly but did not hear back) 1) is this advised? What would be the benefit? 2) What is the best way to accomplish? (it would seem that you would glass the plank material prior to cutting, but not sure if this would impact how the planks would conform to the shape of the hull, etc. etc...) Thank you in advance for any thoughts. Will
  5. Hello Suzanne, I am a B and B builder in Lewisville, NC. Very interested if your OB20 project is still available. Please let me know. Thanks, Will 336-978-3938 acreew@gmail.com
  6. Thank you Hirilonde and everyone for your help. I appreciate it.
  7. Thank you.... it is epoxy (west marine I think). If we were to tackle this does all of the paint need to be removed? Don’t know the exact paint but I think it is a 1 part marine paint
  8. Hello all, helped a friend build this skiff. He covered in 12 oz cloth with no attempts at smoothing/fairing. Now he is considering redoing. How would you recommend doing this? E.g., would we need to re glass after smoothing/fairing... thank you for any thoughts.
  9. I did what you did....except with awlgrip products and was all roll and tip. Paint has done well for approx. 3 years. Chips/rubs off in high friction areas (mast tube opening/bottom). Also bubbles around screws etc that were not initially sealed. I put on sail track after painting. Would not paint, as that would potentially affect the ease of hoisting the sails. I have limited experience...only my opinion. Will
  10. Also connect sail on outside. Have used a dog bone for attaching sail... has been quick/easy
  11. I have the bungee, but not the breakaway cleat....will add that. Thanks to everyone who responded. Very helpful!
  12. Thank you for the replies. One thought.....would the addition of floating tenons make the joint so strong that it would not fail in the same way as this time. Specifically and unfortunately, this may happen again....as it worked out...the localized damage to the centerboard was a nice surprise. Would not want to make damage to another part of the boat (e.g., centerboard case, etc.) more likely with an overzealous repair. Are these concerns realistic? Thank you again, Will
  13. Pulled into busy boat ramp ... deep water .... rushing ... forgot to raise centerboard... cranked as hard as I could and eventually the boat came on, unfortunately without the center board in one piece. The result is what you see in the pictures below. On the positive side there was no other damage other than the top splitting off of the Center board, amazing if this was planned for/designed for in advance. Idiots like myself are very thankful if that is the case. Anyway, no other damage can be detected. All rigging for the center board is exactly as it was. I intend to simply epoxy the top of the centerboard back on. Would appreciate any suggestions or insights On how to make this a secure/ lasting repair. thank you, will
  14. I may be interested if still available.... where are you located? thanks, will
  15. Has anyone used lead ballast on the centerboard of a CS17 mk1? If so...what are your observations with regard to: General stability heeling in heavy wind need for reefing impact on pivot/centerboard case....any structural changes required? difficulty of raising the board reduction of speed/agility If the ballast was helpful....how much weight is needed? How much is too much? any significant drawbacks? I have read several posts regarding general pros and cons on this and other lists....would be interested in the direct experience of any who have made the lead ballast modification to the centerboard of a cs17 mk1. thank you very much. will
  16. Wishing you all the very best. Stay safe.
  17. thank you. I only want a usb port. Would use a battery bank but having trouble finding one that can recharge an ipad multiple times.
  18. Hello All, Would anyone be willing to share their battery set up? I am getting bogged down in planning this by multiple things including a near complete lack of knowledge of electricity/batteries etc. I envision a deep cycle battery in a battery box in the hatch next to the bulkhead connected to a V-charger (image attached) installed under the thwart. Primary purpose of the battery would be recharging an ipad(navionics) and 1-3 iphones. The battery w/ charger/battery box is: VMAX857 & BC1204 &U1 BOX PKG 12 Volt 35Ah SLA AGM Deep Cycle Group U1 Battery U1 Battery Box & VMAX 3.3Amp 4-Stage 12V Microprocessor Controlled "Smart" Charger/ Tender/ Maintainer Would anything else be needed (eg. fuses to protect the battery or devices)? Attached are some images of the components I have considered. Too much? Not enough? Better way? etc. etc. Thanks in advance. V-charger
  19. Repair completed and came out very well. Unable to tell as far as I can see. Thanks again for all the help: i am am now completing the masts and have some questions if anyone can help: 1. Any advice on sealing the masts/preventing intrusion of water? Boatlife, butyl tape, ionic forcefield. 2. Want to install topping lifts....thinking of an eye strap at top of mast with line running through a fair lead or eye strap at end of the sprit and then through a clamcleat.... is this in the ballpark? thanks, Will
  20. I am in!...... assuming all repairs from my recent capsize are done:) Will
  21. Thank you both for your thoughts, they are very relieving. Getting too caught up in the small stuff. Ordered the masts and sails today and am very excited to get her back on the water!
  22. Hey.... I am glad it was helpful. Great that through the process of building we are able to make repairs/improvements. I will also consider the tape. How long did it take before the crack appeared? Unrelated, but constantly on my mind of late...... In redoing the front mast tube, I did not level the boat per the waterline...I noticed from the relative position of the mast step drain hole, that my new tube is approx. 1/4 inch different L to R and approx. 1/8 different front to back. I used the levels method shown by Alan in the video, but of course the boat is in a different position (on the trailer). I know I wont know how out of whack it is until I build the masts and insert them. Too late now, Just hoping for any feedback on if I completely screwed up and will have to redo. Deck is now on and I cannot imagine how to replace the mast tube at this point. Measure twice cut once....phhht!
  23. Thanks everyone, i ended up using my block plane finishing up with a long board with paper placed so as not to contact side of the deck...was harder and took a lot longer but no $ for a plane I would rarely use. Thanks again for the ideas! now to save up for masts, sails and hardware.
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