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Thank you all. Thanks Alan, I appreciate you mailing it. Will

Hello, Any leads on where to find the copper down haul tube for the rudder. 3/8 x2"? thanks, will

Steve, I live just west of Winston-Salem and have used the Okoume ply from the hardwood store for my CS17....just got 2 sheets from them about 2 weeks ago. I am not an expert on plywood. As you said...indicated to be BS1088, certified, etc. etc. What I have noticed is the followng: Con: the plys are not uniform. From reading other's posts, it seems that this is desirable. Nevertheless, this never seemed to be a problem in any aspect of my working with it as far as I can tell. Pros: i have never found any voids or defects and have gone through 11 sheets (3 9mm sheets and 8 6mm sheets). Hardwood store very easy to work with and seems to have a good supply. Would be happy to send you pictures of end grain if it would be helpful. Will Acree

Excellent Site! Thank you Frank!

Is the bow eye typically epoxied in or sealed to allow for removal? (CS-17) Thank you, Will

Now that is a clear reply. Very well. Thank you.

Thanks Grahm, Not sure where I got that......glad I was wrong! Any thoughts on eliminating the foredeck?

Another Question: 1. I installed 1X2 inwales (width is really 3/4)....My understanding is that the inwales should be a full 1 inch. Is this a problem? Is it fixable? Thanks,' Will

Hello, 1. Have others omitted the foredeck and if so what are your thoughts, any problems, etc.? Any reason not to do this (e.g., does it sacrifice rigidity/strength?). First time builder....any guides on how to do this if it is possible? Framing for the foredeck already installed. 2. Bought Awlspar classic spar varnish for thwart, oars, tiller, etc.....Dont like the yellow tint. Any recommendations for a clear varnish that would better preserve the color of the wood (Ash)? Will I be able to remove the color of the Awlspar already applied (3 coats including initial thinned coat)? Thank you, Will

OK......how about this...what about eliminating the foredeck altogether.....seems it would offer more usable space/better access to front of the boat, etc.....hatch could then be through the bulkhead. 1. Have others done this and what is your experience? 2. Any negatives to doing this? 3. I have already done framing for the foredeck, but seems that I could undo this pretty easily. Would assume that you would reinforce the front bulkhead with deck beam at the top? Thanks, Will

Thanks Randy, I think I will end up building the hatch as designed for the reasons you stated. The spinnaker/bowsprit thought came from seeing Flying Scots sailing in Deep Creek, MD ....of course now that I look at those boats closely, there is no bowsprit needed to use a spinnaker.......I have minimal sailing experience so feeling my way through this. Will

Thanks to all for the awesome suggestions. Very excited about the possibility of a flush hatch. Will talk to Grahm about the bowsprit. Will

Mattp, I don't forsee a problem. I just like the way the boat looks without the front hatch. Would be interested if anyone has come up with a hatch that is functional and flush (or close to it) with the deck. I agree that the hatch through the bulkhead would be a pain.

Any concerns with omitting front hatch on deck and putting large (as large as possible) hatch through the forward bulkhead? Is there any benefit to a bowsprit? Does it allow for a spinnaker and is this desirable on the CS17? Thank you, Will

This is the paint: I will be using the Interlux Interprotect 2000E as a primer......Question is: Can the VC Performance Epoxy (a bottom paint) be used above the waterline? It is a 2-part epoxy bottom paint with no antifouling or UV protection. I thought this had been used on other boats above the waterline on this listserv....Has anyone used this paint above the waterline and if so what was your experience?

Will be spraying this paint on CS17 hull. It is a bottom paint and the manufacturer is adamant that it not be applied above the waterline due to no UV resistance. It appears that Wes used this on his CS20 on the entire hull. Have attempted to contact him through his website with no luck. Has anyone else used this paint above the waterline and if so....what was your experience? It it can in fact only be used as a bottom paint.....how to go about matching white paints....or best approach to painting the boat without perfectly matched colors (white). I would appreciate any thoughts/experiences. Thank you, Will CS17 Hull #339

Thanks... I will be fixing it. Thanks for the poctures David... Looks good.... Anything yiu would do differently? Any other suggestions on how to correct "the hook" ?

Another try with pictures. Hey David ....appears to be the same issue you had.... Not sure i have your tenacity.... Any thoughts on leaving this as is?

Thanks Lennie, I cant get the pictures to load....dont know how I did it before.....will keep trying.

Thank you all for the suggestions on the seams.....was not as difficult as I was making it in my head. Now I have a new head scratcher... There appears to be a dip maybe 20 inches in length...approximately 1/2 inch at its greatest on the centerline just before the transom. Attached are some pictures. Any idea what caused this? Do I need to fix it and if so, How? Couldnt get pictures to load....will try again tomorrow. Thank you for any help! Will

Lennie, Thanks for the picture... The finish looks great to me... I hope I can get there.

Here are some pictures... The first two are of the area where the side panel is not aligned with the bottom panel. Others = before the flip

I have flipped the boat and would appreciate any help with several questions: 1) What is the best way to radius the plywood edges along the chine to ensure consistent lines? 2) How much does it need to be rounded....how much material needs to be removed? 3) There are several places where the side and bottom panels do not meet perfectly. How do I address this where the side panel is proud. Do I sand the side panel ...apply fairing compound/goo to the bottom panel? (Tried to download pictures but could not ...will attempt again later) 4) I will glass the hull with 6oz glass. Do I also need to put 2 layers of 10oz tape on all seams? Thank you, Will

would love to hear opinions of those with experience with using cs17 hatches as designed and commercial hatches regarding 1. Ease of installation 2. Ease in stowing gear 3. Watertightness 4. Any other thoughts I am dreading building the hatches, but the price tag of commercial ones is also painful. For the designed hatches I cannot see or understand how they are attached to the seat frame....would also appreciate the steps involved in installing them. Have read plans.... Looked at pictures... Just not clicking for some reason. TIA Will

Now that I am nearing the painting process.....the ridges left by the seams of the fiberglass tape (paricularly where they overlap) are concerning. I have sanded a LOT, but have sanded through the glass several times and I am afraid I am just making more work for myself (small holes to fill). Any tips on how to smooth glassed joins so that the ridges are less prominent to begin with and secondly how to best smooth the cured joins so that it is not obvious when painted? Thank you in advance. Will