rustyshaklfurd Posted May 9, 2015 Author Posted May 9, 2015 What is the best way to car top a SOF kayak? J racks, Foam Blocks, factory racks? I will likely be topping the kayak on a Ford Explorer or a Subaru Outback wagon. Quote
CapecodJohn Posted May 10, 2015 Posted May 10, 2015 What is the best way to car top a SOF kayak? J racks, Foam Blocks, factory racks? I will likely be topping the kayak on a Ford Explorer or a Subaru Outback wagon. I've got the J's, they don't work well with my SOF. I use foam blocks and ride the yaks right side up. Works well. I have to admit I have 2 13 foot plastic boats they fit alright in the Js Quote
Hirilonde Posted May 10, 2015 Posted May 10, 2015 I pattern scribed 2x6s to the hull at the appropriate spots on the kayak to use on my lumber rack (pick-up truck). Cut them slightly large and carpeted them. Quote
mitchmellow Posted May 10, 2015 Posted May 10, 2015 I did the same as Hirilonde. Covered mine with 1/2 inch foam camping mat. I attached them to improvised 3/4 inch EMT conduit cross bars built to fit the rails on my crossover/suv (Ford Freestyle). It has worked well so far. Quote
Action Tiger Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 I did the 2x deal as well, then bolted them to the factory rack. I don't cartop anymore, though. Quote
Kudzu Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 Malone make foam blocks that will 'snap' over your factory bars (most likely). I used these for a long time over Yakima bars. Another option is the cheap J-racks they sell on EBay. Even though they are made in China they are a good buy. they are pretty universal and would probably fit on your factory bars. They will fit on my factory rack on my Suburban but I need to get a shorter bolts. I have a set of Yakimas fitted to the factory rails and just put them on there. I have bought 8 sets and use them on my trailer. I have had to file the holes on one set, missing hardware bolts/nuts in another set. even so you can't beat the price. Just get some kayak straps and don't use ratchet straps. They need to be snug, not tight. Use a bow line just in case something fails. It could save the life of someone behind you!! Quote
rustyshaklfurd Posted May 11, 2015 Author Posted May 11, 2015 Thanks everyone for the input. I am leaning towards the J-racks but need to do some measuring to see what will fit each vehicle. Kudzu thank you for the heads up about the ratchet straps. Quote
rustyshaklfurd Posted May 13, 2015 Author Posted May 13, 2015 Got the frame oiled (Pure Tung Oil), footrests installed, and drilled the painters. Received my shipment of the 11 oz polyester and hopefully I can work on sewing the skin on later this week. Quote
rustyshaklfurd Posted May 14, 2015 Author Posted May 14, 2015 Prior to starting to skin the boat I began to wonder about the plywood coaming. From reading the build guide and Jeff's book I know I need to lash the bottom ring in place. Knowing this I started searching the forum and came upon nopoe's Ravenswood build thread. I have not taken the coaming apart but it appears to be held together with 6 screws. Another thing I noticed is that some of the paper template tore off. That is not too big of a deal and I think I can compensate for the small area that is missing. Before I start to drape and sew the skin on what do I need to do with the coaming? From Nopoe's thread and Kudzu's responses it a looks like I need to drill the holes for the screws as provided by the pattern. Should these go all the way through the coaming pieces, i.e. through the top of the coaming or are they pilot holes? Do I glue any pieces together? I just want to make sure I am not missing a critical step. Quote
Kudzu Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 All this is covered in the manual, just review it. One thing that is not mentioned is the option of putting in the screws from the bottom. I have started doing this and really like it but it is a pain in the butt to do. I have found that a small ratchet with a screwdriver bit makes the job possible but not easy. Quote
rustyshaklfurd Posted May 15, 2015 Author Posted May 15, 2015 Kudzu, Thank you for the advice. Sometimes when a person gets focused it is hard to see the trees from the forest or in this case page 65 from the rest of the manual. I like the idea of putting the screws in from the bottom and if I can come up with a screwdriver bit for the ratchet I might try it. 1 Quote
Kudzu Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 I use the small 1/4" drive(?) ratchet. Somewhere I picked up a set of sockets with a special socket just for bits. But a standard socket the right size will work. It's not fun thing to do but a screwdriver just doesn't work in that small space. And they look MUCH better with screws in from the bottom. Quote
rustyshaklfurd Posted May 22, 2015 Author Posted May 22, 2015 Finally started to skin the boat. Slow going but strangely relaxing. Quote
rustyshaklfurd Posted June 30, 2015 Author Posted June 30, 2015 Well it's funny how life has a way of popping up and impeding progress. Needless to say it has been a while since my last post. Work, travel, and triathlons have meant little progress has been made at least until the last few days. The skin is on and I am working on attaching the coaming. Thanks to Kudzu for the drive ratchet idea. By way of my grandfather I am the proud owner of an American made, North Bros. Mfg. Co "Yankee" ratcheting screwdriver. This is proving invaluable in putting the screws in from the bottom of the coaming. I've heard it said announcing one's plans is a good way to hear God laugh at you, but at the risk of it here goes, I hope to be painting by this weekend. Quote
Action Tiger Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 Sorry for the slight hijack, but what distance do you do? I am a recovering 140.6 type, myself. Quote
rustyshaklfurd Posted June 30, 2015 Author Posted June 30, 2015 Mainly sprints due to limited time for training but one day I would like to work up to a 70.3. Hats off to you for the 140.6. That might be a bucket list one for me. Quote
Action Tiger Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 Meh. The long ones only hurt if you RACE. Fun sport, though. I mostly chose long course because I like to swim so much. By the by, that screwdriver is very cool. Cain't wait to see the paint! Quote
rustyshaklfurd Posted June 30, 2015 Author Posted June 30, 2015 Well good to know they are achievable. I like the short course because swimming is the weakest of the three for me. Quote
rustyshaklfurd Posted July 2, 2015 Author Posted July 2, 2015 I will likely be buying some paint today. Has anyone had any experience using Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel Oil Base? I ask because I like their variety of color choices plus they are having a 30% off sale. If all else fails I'll go with Rustoleum. Quote
Action Tiger Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Buy the smallest amount possible, in a color you can use somewhere else, if need be. Stretch a piece of spare cloth skin tight, and slap some paint on. If it sticks, and looks good, go back and buy as much as you might use in six months. If it don't work for the boat, paint a porch chair or something. Win win. Also, check out swim smooth.com. Helped me a TON! Quote
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