Deck Hardware CS20 104

[Maria CS20 104]

I have actually finished the boat and I am in the middle of completing my birdsmouth masts.  About 80% complete.  I look at the plans for installing the deck hardware and I am confused by what goes where (best placement).  Also need some information on where to place cleats and or davits and the best method to prevent pulling out under load.  Mom want this thing to launch.  It has been a bit over two manyears since we started this project ( almost 4 calander years, took one off to go work in northern Maine and epoxy work in Louisiana July through August and early September is a PITA).  Wife is getting a tad impatient for me to give her garage back.  Does anyone have pictures they can post to give me a better feel for this final step.  I plan to order the roach sails but will be attaching the sails to rings cut from heavy wall PVC pipe sections to 3/4 to 1 inch wide and sand down and round the top and bottom edges.  I like the clatter they make when adjusting and riding the wind, just an old familiar sound I heard often sailing Puget Sound off of Tacoma Washington in my youth.  I may have to change if I cant figure it out but I've got a few ideas how to make it work.

 

Thanks to all over the years fro sharing and encouraging

 

Jim Atkinson

[Hirilonde]

Davits?

 

 

davit.bmp

[Brent]

You will want at least one deck cleat up front and one at the stern for dock lines/Anchor lines.

I suggest two cleats up front about 18" aft the main and located near the gunwale to use for this purpose and also to provide an anchor point for the foot of your mizzen staysail. . Through bolt with stainless bolts through the deck and through a 3/8 backing plate underneath.

The boat tends to sail on her anchor. This can be mitigated a little by a chock straight on the bow for the anchor line. I also recommend chocks for mooring lines port and starboard, fore and aft.

My boat has a single large deck cleat at the stern mounted under the tiller, also with a backing plate. I have found this sufficient. Always go with a deck cleat one size large than what you think you need. You will be glad you did.

[Brent]

Where you put your sail trim hardware is personal choice. On my boat all the halyards, snorters, and down hauls are run back to clam cleats within reach of the helm. I adjust these frequently. In addition to facilitating trimming for speed, this also allows controlled depowering the sails as needed for docking and anchoring under sail.

Your choice.

[Dale Niemann]

Anybody know where I can purchase a straight chock for the point of the bow?

 

Also to stay on topic.  I fabricated a SS Bow roller per Graham's plans for the bow of 'Lively' and it has worked very well for 4 years or so now.

 

Thanks,

Dale

[Howard]

Anybody know where I can purchase a straight chock for the point of the bow?

 

Also to stay on topic.  I fabricated a SS Bow roller per Graham's plans for the bow of 'Lively' and it has worked very well for 4 years or so now.

 

Thanks,

Dale

Hamilton Marine

 

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/chock-straight-s-s-5-sold-as-each-130309-/4,23880.html

[ricknriver]

A nice but pricey ($125) alternative with a roller by R.C. Plath: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/boa/3529685358.html.  Cant find if they come in sizes though. R

[Dale Niemann]

Thanks Howard.  That is exactly what I was looking for.

 

Thanks also to Rick for your reply.  I think I may try the bow chock.

 

dale