Lapwing rigging

[Richard Whitney CS#70]

Hi Tom

In Ken's 'Honda outboard warranty' thread he mentions the way in which the mizzen sheets on Lapwing are set up.  Some time when you get a chance I would be interested in how you have your sheets, halyards etc. set up.  It looks very tidy from the photos I have seen of Lapwing (description or photos).

I am buying mast tubing this week as my first project on my Lapwing.

Thanks, Richard

[Ken_Potts]

I've been combing through all the photos I can find of lapwing and I can't find a good one of the mizzen sheet setup.  The way I remember it:

- The sheet is tied to the clew.

- It runs through a block on the transom.

- Back up through a block on the clew.

- Through a cheek block on the mast just below where the sprit boom crosses.

- Down to a block/cam cleat/swivel thingy on the thwart and into the hand of the skipper.

I probably have gotten some of that wrong so hopefully someone's got a picture of the arrangement that they will share (there must have been nearly a million pictures taken of Lapwing at the messabout).

[Docpal]

Here are two of the shots taken at the messabout. Ken you have most of the mizzen sheet routing worked out, but I think you missed the "fairlead" Tom has attached to the underside of the mizzen sprit to give a better angle of approach to a block he has attached on the mizzen mast.. You can see that block in the first picture about a foot below where the sprit and mast intersect. (But I think Tom said he was planning to raise that  block higher than pictured here). Hopefully he'll post a shot after he's done so.

The second shot shows the block/cam cleat/swivel thingy mounted on the thwart. After seeing how logical it is I'm pretty sure I'll try something similar on "Petunia" as it lets you have all sheets within close proximity of one another, and you can look forward while you handle all sheets...

[Tom Lathrop]

I like the mizzen sheeting arrangement although I did not originate it.  The mainsheet arrangement has been changed because the angle of the sheet coming off the cleat did not run fair to various crew positions, especially when single handing.  I have replaced it with two more swivel units like the one on the mizzen.  These are pretty expensive so I built two from scrap stainless and some 3/8" phenolic I had on hand.  Now I like the whole thing.  Perhaps I am influenced by experience with racing dinghys, but I prefer having all the sheets like this. 

I will put on some photos tomorrow.  The one major drawback that may prevent others from doing the sheets this way is that rowing would be very uncomfortable sitting on those swivels.  I realized that I never actually rowed "Loon" even once.  These boats sail so well that rowing was never a necessity.  In particular situations, some may have a need to row.  I found on other boats that I could paddle when necessary by sitting right at the bow facing the stern and paddling the boat backwards.

[Dale Niemann]

Thanks Tom for this info.  I will be needing it when I build my Lapwing.  Look forward to your new photos.  If possible could you add closeup photos of the upper arrangement on the sprit and mast.

I would also add from the photo it may be hard to row sitting on the thwart in the bilge. LOL

Dale

[Richard Whitney CS#70]

Thanks everyone for the useful information and pictures

[Ken_Potts]

I knew I had probably missed something.  I'm just glad I got the name of the "block/cam cleat/swivel thingy" correct  ;D

[paul_stewart]

In action... but a little blurry.  Close-up photos from Tom will be better.

[Steve A]

Hi,

Ross Lillistone is building a design similar to Lapwing.

If you look at page 3 of the Periwinkle construction photos, the latest few show his solution.

Yes, I know he's a different designer, but the construction sequence is interresting to anyone looking at a lapstrake boat. 

The site is here:

http://www.baysidewoodenboats.com.au/

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

I have an outboard on my CS20 and I went to mizzen sheeting.  It was Brent's design and he has a great drawing of the system.  I had it, but it is on my other computer that crashed.  I love the mizzen sheeting for more than one reason.  Besides not fouling in the motor, all sail trim is forward.  It is fun to steer the boat with main and mizzen sheets in one hand facing forward.  You just need to remember to trim twice as much with the mizzen as the  main...as it has additional purchase.

[MickG]

Hi: While this thread is about a Lapwing, I have a rigging question that would apply to all boats with sprits. How is the aft end of the sprit attached to the clew of the sail. I have read about pins at the end of the sprit, but I am not sure exactly how they work. Is the pin an exrention of the sprit and the sail is turned at a right angle and the cringle simply slipped over the pin???. Any help would be appreciated, I have a CS 20.  Th ank you, Mick

[wkisting]

Mick, there's a little webbing loop through the cringle that slides over the pin so that the sail doesn't have to turn at a right angle, but can ride naturally on the sprit. In my case, the pin is a 3/4" diameter oak wooden dowel. I bored a hole about 3" deep into the end of the sprit and epoxied the dowel in place. The dowel sticks out the aft end of the sprit about 2-3" so that the webbing loop doesn't slip off of it. Simple to rig and it works great.

[Tom Lathrop]

Yes, Wes did it the same way just about everybody does.  Easy, no problems.

[MickG]

Thank you both for the reply. I sort of figured that might be the case, but was not sure. I didn't build my boat and just got a copy of the plans a few days ago. The builder did some things a little bit different and I am trying tok change some to make the rigging go smoother and faster. Thanks agin, Mick

[Tom Lathrop]

Here are some photos of the sail sheeting arrangement.  The mizzen swivel and cleat was made from the sail hardware parts bin.  I think I originally had it on a Sunfish.  The mainsheet swivels were home made from scrap stainless with phenol-fiber discs for the base.  I only had to buy the two bulls eyes with the stainless centers and the eye straps were from Graham.  The phenolic swivel bases were a little tricky to make but I just balked at the price to buy new swivel sheeting set ups. 

Except for the rowing thing, which I probably will not need anyway, I really like this system.  It allows control with a fair lead from just about any place you may be in the boat.  The little plugs you can see in the seat are from filling holes left after removing the old cleats, etc.  This has always been common in my boats but it happened quicker in Lapwing than usual.

The small fairlead through the seat is for the downhaul and goes to a clam cleat under the aft edge of the seat.

[Ken_Potts]

The little plugs you can see in the seat are from filling holes left after removing the old cleats, etc.  This has always been common in my boats but it happened quicker in Lapwing than usual.

I've got quite a few of those in my boat too.  Soon there will be more. 

[Richard Whitney CS#70]

Thanks for the pictures Tom.  I still can't quite picture how the sheet is set up on the mizzen and feeds into your fairlead/cleat.

[Richard Whitney CS#70]

I think I've got it (no kiwi jokes Graham).  The sheet is attached to a 'rope horse' at the stern, runs to a block at the aft end of the mizzen sprit, then to a block on the mast (in your case on the port side - same as the sprit), down the mizzen mast, around another block and through the fairlead on the mid-ship thwart.