lbrewer Posted October 25, 2008 Author Posted October 25, 2008 I got to work a little bit on the seat stringers and mast partner today. Seems like I haven't gotten a whole lot accomplished this week. It must be the real job interfering again. Quote
lbrewer Posted November 1, 2008 Author Posted November 1, 2008 I decided to flip it over and work on the outside of the hull for a bit. I filled the seams and stitch holes with epoxy/silica/woodflour mix. Then did a first fairing with epoxy/Q cells (glass bubbles), and followed with quickfair. The cooler temps earlier in the week slowed the fairing process because the stuff wouldn't get hard enough to sand. I spent most of my time waiting. The last couple of days have been beautiful though with daytime temps in the mid 70's. Its not ready to paint yet but roughed in pretty close. Quote
lbrewer Posted November 1, 2008 Author Posted November 1, 2008 Oh.....I got the daggerboard case glued up too Quote
lbrewer Posted November 7, 2008 Author Posted November 7, 2008 Update: I've installed the daggerboard trunk, glassed the inside, finished aft seat stringers, fitted seat sides and tops, profiled daggerboard and rudder, have the center thwart and some trim pieces gluing up tonite. Here are some pictures I took earlier in the week. I'll try to get some more tomorrow. Quote
lbrewer Posted November 7, 2008 Author Posted November 7, 2008 Now is a heckuva time to ask since I have already cut, shaped and profiled the rudder blade, but here goes. The plans show a diagram of how to shape the rudder by transposing a drawing showing a grid of 2 inch squares, which I did. I now see some text instructions that say the grid is to be 3 inch squares. If that is correct then the one I've made is going to be too small. Can anyone shed some light on this? Quote
Hirilonde Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 My S9N plans show 2" squares in the drawing and make no reference in the text. Compare the blade info to the housing info. Considering that the blade fits into the housing you should be able to verify which is correct. Looks good so far. You must be doing something right Quote
Greg Luckett Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 I just checked the S12 print for the rudder, which shows both the 3" squares, and the overall dimension. As long as you kept the overall dimension, the square size should not matter much except to help transpose the shape. If the print shows the shape in the squares, it is just a scaling thing. Did you follow the overall shape and keep to the overall dimensions? If so, you should be fine, IMHO. Quote
lbrewer Posted November 7, 2008 Author Posted November 7, 2008 I don't find anything listing the overall dimensions, but relative to the drawings of how it fits into the housing I think I am right. Transposing the drawing onto the 2" grid yields a rudder blade of approximately 9.5" X 23.5". If you used the drawing on a 3" grid, the blade would be about 14.25" X 35.25". The bigger size isn't proportional to the cumulative dimensions given on the housing drawing. The overall dimensions for the both the blade and the housing would clarify a lot. I should probably add, that I have trouble finding my car keys too Quote
Steve Day Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 Hey Larry, Do you want to look at mine? I'm away with the Boy Scouts over the weekend, but will be back Sunday night. It appears you are "getting with the program" quite well. I am looking forward to having another Spindrift in the area to sail with. Keep letting us know how you are doing. If the timing is right, I can help/consult as you are going along. Steve Quote
lbrewer Posted November 7, 2008 Author Posted November 7, 2008 Thanks Steve, It's nice to know there's another one close enough to put my eyes on if necessary. Quote
lbrewer Posted November 8, 2008 Author Posted November 8, 2008 Below are some pictures of the rudder and daggerboard and use of a ticking stick to layout the correct shape for the center thwart. Bob Smalser had an excellent post in the main forum last year describing its use: http://www.messing-about.com/forums/index.php?topic=5786.msg48424#msg48424 Quote
Greg Luckett Posted November 8, 2008 Posted November 8, 2008 ...Transposing the drawing onto the 2" grid yields a rudder blade of approximately 9.5" X 23.5". If you used the drawing on a 3" grid, the blade would be about 14.25" X 35.25". The bigger size isn't proportional to the cumulative dimensions given on the housing drawing. The overall dimensions for the both the blade and the housing would clarify a lot. I think the smaller size is wrong. Subtract the depth of the C/B trunk from the length of the C/B. I believe a C/B of about 12 inches would be too small (below the hull), assuming the trunk is about 10 or 11 inches in depth. You should need about 2 feet for the C/B to do its job. Quote
lbrewer Posted November 8, 2008 Author Posted November 8, 2008 It's the rudder blade that I'm wondering about Greg. The plans were clear on the daggerboard. It has an overall length of over 41 inches. Quote
Greg Luckett Posted November 8, 2008 Posted November 8, 2008 Uh, duh me. I forgot since reading your first post. Sorry for the confusion. :-[ In this case, I agree with you about the rudder. I think it should be about 2 ft for a boat your size. I have used longer ones, which do a lot better in rough water to maintain steerage, but then in a 10 foot boat, not good to be in that kind of rough water. Quote
bruegf Posted November 8, 2008 Posted November 8, 2008 Greg, I have had very good success gluing teak with epoxy by wiping the joint surfaces with acetone before gluing. This removes the surface oils and seems to give a better joint. Fred Quote
Hirilonde Posted November 8, 2008 Posted November 8, 2008 Greg, I have had very good success gluing teak with epoxy by wiping the joint surfaces with acetone before gluing. This removes the surface oils and seems to give a better joint. Fred Yup, I do it all the time. I am in the process of covering a swim platform in teak at work with epoxy as the sole means of fastening. Alcohol works fine too. I'm not sure this is proven, but for structural joints I feel better using acetone. Quote
lbrewer Posted November 17, 2008 Author Posted November 17, 2008 Another update for anyone interested. I've been slowly adding some of the details in the afternoons this past week. It got cold last night and didn't warm up much today so I spent a lot of time headscratching and wondering if my $30 Ebay sail is going to work out. I don't have any experience with spritsails of any sort. The mast step isn't done yet so the picture with the sail up is just mock-up to see how it would look. Quote
lbrewer Posted November 17, 2008 Author Posted November 17, 2008 My helpers wanted me to post a picture of them as well: Quote
Ken_Potts Posted November 17, 2008 Posted November 17, 2008 Shaping up nicely! And you darn well better post pictures of the helpers! Admit it - They're doing all the heavy lifting aren't they? Quote
Steve Day Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 Larry, She's looking pretty good! When are you planning to launch? I could be persuaded to come over with mine to help celebrate. Steve Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.