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Spindrift #733 10 ft Nesting version


lbrewer

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Well,  I was going to build the Bluejacket 27 next, but I haven't sold my Harley yet (getting rid of one toy to finance another one).  I was getting kinda bored not having a boat going on so I thought I might build a boat around that neat birdsmouth mast I accidentally put together.  I picked the nesting version because in a pinch I might fit it on the bigger boat and use it with a motor as a speckled trout chaser in the Chandleur Islands.  That is if I get the nerve to cut it in half.

I already had the plywood scarfed waiting for the plans.  I got the plans yesterday and this afternoon I was able to get the bottom and side panels cut out along with the transom and forward bulkhead.  Then I ran out of daylight.

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I got the plans yesterday and this afternoon I was able to get the bottom and side panels cut out along with the transom and forward bulkhead.

Dude you are killing me here.  I have had my wood for weeks and my plans for longer than that and I have yet to make a single speck of saw dust.  Please tell me you are retired or independently wealthy and have tons of leisure time on your hands.  ;D

I do have the lines for the bottom and sides marked and I am ready to start cutting.  Maybe I will get around to it this weekend.  I have this company who insists I go to an office and sit at a desk for 8 hours just so they will pay me money.  Man they are demanding.

Good luck with your build.

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Dude you are killing me here.  I have had my wood for weeks and my plans for longer than that and I have yet to make a single speck of saw dust.  Please tell me you are retired or independently wealthy and have tons of leisure time on your hands.  Grin

Nah,  I just really like building boats so I try to sneak in  a little time between real work and "honey-do's".  It's getting harder with the days getting shorter though.  I always seem to slow down when its time to start sanding :-[

This afternoon I got the butterfly joints taped up and the nesting bulkheads with their doublers cut out and that used up all the daylight I had after work.

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Good point Garry.  I have a variable speed polisher/disc sander that I can turn down low and scuff up the small filets.  The paper extends out past the disc just a little so when you hold it at an angle at low speed it sands them pretty well except right in the corners. 

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I do my fillets and tape as one step right over the wire ties as well.  My first 2 boats I used a torch to heat them for removal.  It saves a lot of work (cleaning the blush and sanding).  In this post http://www.messing-about.com/forums/index.php?topic=5304.0 Charlie describes how he removes them after.  This will be my method next boat, it just makes too much sense.

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I got a couple of  3/8" laminations of the gunwhales glued on.  One layer is doug fir and one is tulip poplar.  I'll do another lamination for the outside of the rubrail and perhaps an inwhale.  I am thinking I want a darker wood for contrast there as well as some of the other parts to be finished bright so the search is on.

I also filleted and taped the inside seams on the aft section of the boat.  I would have done the rest of the inside but I wound up 11 inches short on the glass  >:(.  I had ordered more for the outside anyway... just have to wait for it to get here. 

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My glass resupply order arrived this afternoon in time for me to get the forward inside taped up. 

I also have the blanks for the daggerboard and rudder glued up.  I found some teak and some purpleheart flooring at a salvage place that I am using for that.  I have never tried gluing either one of those woods with epoxy before so I have my fingers crossed.  I did scrub the glue joint area with alcohol thoroughly hoping to remove any oils from the woods.  The boards are all clear but most were short pieces.

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Larry,

Be wary of gluing teak as its oils tend to make glue joints fail.  I have glued it to repair cracks and breaks in the past with some success, but I would not use it for a center board.  It would be better to use mahogany or walnut for the darker wood.

Greg.

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Greg,

I've read in various places that the oils could interfere with adhesion of the epoxy.  Then I've read of some successes by using a solvent of some sort to clean the wood before applying the epoxy glue.  I hope I haven't flubbed up too badly by trying it.  If it doesn't work I'll find another combination and use the teak on something else. 

How about the purpleheart?  Any info on using it in a lamination?

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If you clean the mating surfaces of teak with acetone, then do the glue up very shortly after (minutes, less than an hour) it epoxies quite well.  With what teak costs I would be tempted to save it for a more exposed application, even if I got a deal on the stuff, but it should work.

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I used isopropyl alcohol rather than acetone to clean it, but I scrubbed the dickens out of it and glued it as soon as the surface dried (minutes).  I hope it works, but if it doesn't, as you mention, there are plenty of applications for the teak on this boat or another. 

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So far the laminations with the teak and purpleheart seem ok.  With one of the off cuts from the blank I did a demo and the teak broke instead of the joint.  One of my purpleheart to purpleheart joints did not hold in a separate demo, but I don't think I gave the epoxy enough time.  It was still rather soft.  The temperature here has cooled down the last couple of nights into the high 40's and I was still using slow hardener.  I tried the demo that failed first thing in the morning after letting the joint set up overnight.  Just to be safe I am going to screw the purpleheart rubrails on as well as glue them.

A side note about both the teak and the purpleheart if someone is reading this and wondering.  That stuff is hard!  80 grit will smooth the purpleheart like glass instead of scuffing it up!  I kinda figured it was about time for a new table saw blade, but after ripping these two woods I don't have to wonder anymore.

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