Core Sound 15 -- The Decision and Some General Questions

[Dale Niemann]

On my CS 17 "Lively", I switched from full sleeve unbattened to track unbattened.  I am very happy with the track and am glad I made the switch.  I roll the sails for transport and storage on the boat.  If I were doing it over I would not do the third mast hole.  With track sails and double reef points there is no need for the third mast hole.

Dale

[Tom Lathrop]

Dale,

If my sails we unbattened, I would roll and store them on the masts also.  Putting battens in and taking them out with the sail on the masts each time kind of rules that out.  You may have the best of both worlds.  The ability to roll up the main and sail on the mizzen is one thing that I really miss, especially launching and coming into a lee shore or dock.  I've got the battens and will likely stick with them, but I miss the simplicity of the other rig.

[Guest Dennis M]

Ahoy, Graham!

I was getting ready to bore the mast holes in the fwd and aft thwart, but have two different measurements. On  the Hull Construction sheet, the center of the hole is to be 14" aft the fwd bulkhead. On the Centerboard and Trunk sheet, the center of the hole is to be 5 3/4" aft the fwd end of the partner. These two measurements do not agree and I was wondering if you would be so kind as to clarify. Thanks, Dennis

[Guest Dennis M]

I think that I am going to go for simplicity and avoid battens and as much boat jewelry as I can. These things might make a big difference for those who have sailed competitively, like Tom, or who have more experience than I have got. I taught myself to sail about 10 years ago, and so consider myself more a potterer than a sailor. I do know that I like a lively and interesting daysailer and this is what I hope the CS15 turns out to be. I learned to both build and sail in a Bolger flat bottomed skiff which was a hoot to sail. I then built a Joe Dobler design about 2 ft longer than the CS15 and it has been the ticket for about 8 years. But I want a smaller boat. I remember when I built the Dobler I swore I would not S&G again. I can't for the life of me recall what I was thinking when I decided on the CS.  Oh, Yeah, a lively and interesting daysailer!! ~ Dennis

[Ken_Potts]

 

Ken, your sails have no battens?

  No battens here, Dave.

 

...about 20 minutes to rig and de-rig...

  Wes - Mine takes less than 12 minutes to set up or take down if I'm motivated but yours probably sails faster.  In the summertime I get to drop by the lake on the way home from work for a quick sail before sunset.  Then again there's usually no wind here in the summertime 

 

On my CS 17 "Lively", I switched from full sleeve unbattened to track unbattened.  I am very happy with the track and am glad I made the switch.  I roll the sails for transport and storage on the boat.  If I were doing it over I would not do the third mast hole.  With track sails and double reef points there is no need for the third mast hole.

  Dale, I think you hit a homerun on that one.  Everything's a trade-off but I think you've probably got my favorite combination.  I think I'd keep my third mast step, though, because I do get the occasional temptation to hit the lake when there's a hurricane in the area  ;D

 

I can't for the life of me recall what I was thinking when I decided on the CS.  Oh, Yeah, a lively and interesting daysailer!! ~ Dennis

  Hang in there, Dennis - You're going to LOVE that boat.

  Hey guys - Did I take the record for the most responses in a single post?  ;D

[Designer]

Dennis,

After checking out the third mast position, you should make the center of the mast hole 15" aft of the forward bulkhead.

[Guest Dennis M]

Thanks, Graham.

[Gordy Hill]

Member

Posts: 297

 

    CS15 or CS17

[Guest Dennis M]

Progress and Dumb question number 762 ::

C/B case is finally fitted and ready to be glued into the hull. Once that is done, over she goes for the exterior work: skeg, filling, fairing, painting and then back over for finishing off the interior.

I think I have gremlins hidden in the boat shed. When I quit work on the boat back in November, the c/b case measurements were perfect -- add cap and presto, top of c/b case is level with the seat tops. No dice. The lull in building has proven to be problematic as I have had one heck of a time finding my place and getting reoriented to the build.

Anyway, I did get the bailer hole cut out as well (a marked improvement over the c/b slot which looks like Freddy Kruger's work). Wood files are wonderful tools -- rotozips are dangerous in the hands of the clueless. So, the question is -- what is the magic formula for getting the bailer to fit nice and neat against the hull? Does one counter sink the screw holes; drill large enough holes for the bailer's base to fit flush against the hole; or drive it on with a pneumatic drill? ~ Dennis

[Designer]

The thickness of the bailer flange is too thin to drill, so the manufacturer punched the holes for the mounting bolts. I position the bailer until I am satisfied with it's alignment and then drill the 1/8" holes for the bolts. I remove the bailer and run a countersink into the holes deep enough so that the flange sits flat on the bottom.

[PAR]

Counter sinking fastener holes, between the parts is also a good way of preventing leaks. The bedding goo is smashed into the countersink as the parts come together, which puts a good bit of goo on the fastener under pressure, sort of a tapered O ring, molded around the fastener.

[Guest Dennis M]

I've got some left over copper tube. Is there any objection to using it for the drain to the mast tube? ~Dennis

[Tom Lathrop]

I've got some left over copper tube. Is there any objection to using it for the drain to the mast tube? ~Dennis

No, but it will be more complicated than with six cents worth of Tygon tubing from the hardware store.

[Guest Dennis M]

My brother was up last week-end. Since he is in the "digital age" he took some pics.

First up is me -- before I made the mast tube (which btw was glued in today). Even after reading all the trials and tribs of previous builders, I swore I would not make any mistakes. Well, let's just say I had a devil of a time getting that thing off.

There are pics of the interior showing the c/b case glued in. The c/b in the pic is just shoved in the slot and is not pinned where it is supposed to be. I've tried to make the seams disappear as much as I want through fairing. There is more to do, but sailing is more important than perfection here, and so I'm leaving things as they are. I painted the interior of the side tanks a fairly putrid green that has been toned down by the dust from fairing. It is a good thing no one will be looking at that all day!

The hole at the partner, as you can see, is just a millisquidgin off of c/l. Sigh. It is the story of my life. Oh, well, perfection will come with the next boat! ~Dennis

[Ken_Potts]

Oh, well, perfection will come with the next boat!

Not on MY next boat!  I'll get bored before long before I hit perfection and move on to curing cancer or something.  ;D

Looking good.

[Tom Lathrop]

You had a difficult time getting the mast tube off the mold?  Did you use the method I came up with for Lapwing's mast tube?  That should made it easy.

The important thing about the mast is not whether the mast tube hole is a millisquidgin off the center of the kingplank.  The important this is how the mast tube is oriented to the whole boat.  90 degrees from horizontal side to side and with the proper rake aft.  A millimeter to one side or the other is of no consequence.  The boat is not that symmetrical anyway, unless you are the best builder ever born.  

[Guest Dennis M]

Tom, as far as I know, the orientation of the mast fore and aft and athwartships is correct, or so my level and bow and stern measurements told me before I drilled the hole. As far as the mast tube, yes, I did use your method. There are two things that I could have done, however; 1) use a a few more plastic strips and 2) bear down less on the glass while wrapping. I specifically avoided using fg tape because of the warning about this in previous posts. So, I used cloth. It is water under the bridge now, however, but something to keep in mind for the future. ~Dennis

[Guest Dennis M]

I've decided to sheath the hull in fiberglass cloth. Looking at all the dings and gouges just from sitting in the shop has pretty well convinced me that some extra protection on the ply other than paint is a good idea.

I have feathered the tape edges and have faired them pretty well into the hull. Is there anything else I need to do before I lay down the cloth and start epoxying? ~ Thanks, Dennis.

[Guest Dennis M]

I've decided to not permanently glue the rub rails in place, but want to make them "sacrificial" and so replaceable. I'm wondering what folks use for a sealant. The plans say "silicone" or "mastic", but mastic is so generic a term that I cannot figure out what the devil it is because there are so many kinds! A little help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. ~Dennis

[Guest LeeH]

Check out Reply #72 in this thread. That just about covers the spectrum.