Ken_Potts Posted May 21, 2006 Posted May 21, 2006 Here are a few pis (finally) of my progress... There are a couple with some with deck pieces dry-fitted and a cuple sans deck parts. I'm a good ways off from actually epoxying the deck down but I felt like cutting plywood the picture of the bow without the deck shows the king plank running right through the fore hatch - It will be cut off later. I just wanted to try to maintain a straight line from the bow and I thought leaving the plank solid would help. These aren't good pictures but I seem to not ever be able to get good pictures of this boat. I'm building on a screened in porch and normally I can't take a good picture because it's so bright outside and so dark inside that nothing about the boat is visible. This time I had the "bright" idea of taking the pictures at night when the background is dark but it looks like the flash doesn't quite do the job of illuminating the subject. Before too long I hope to be able to post some good outdoor-full-sunlight-on-the-water shots Quote
Scott Dunsworth Posted May 21, 2006 Posted May 21, 2006 Looks good Ken. Getting the deck on will be an encourager and motivator. I enjoy watching all of these Coresounds coming to life. I plan on building the 15 next year so I have appreciated all the pictures of the Coresounds. I just hope if there is ever a big get together of B&B boats all of you Coresound folks will let my Belhaven keep up. I guess if I get to far behind I could cheat and motor sail until I get in ear shot and shut the motor off. She is looking good! Keep up the work. Scott Quote
Michael_H Posted May 21, 2006 Posted May 21, 2006 Looks good! I can't wait to see how she handles. Are you gonna let me sail her, or do you have better sense than that? Quote
Frank Hagan Posted May 21, 2006 Posted May 21, 2006 Good progress, Ken. Its really hard to take pictures under those conditions, but I think they turned out good. Flash at night doesn't work well, as the closest part of the boat is too bright, and then the rest fades out to black too quickly. There are "natural light" flourescents that photographers use to illuminate ... but hey, we're supposed to be boat builders, not photographers! Sorry for the off-topic intrusion, but is anyone getting any kind of error message when they click on Ken's second picture? One user reported that Norton was giving him a warning about it. Anyone else get that? Quote
Garry Posted May 21, 2006 Posted May 21, 2006 No problem on any of the pics here and I also have Norton. Great job on the boat. One minor comment - I try to always use a scrap of plywood under the clamps to prevent making marks. You probably already know this and simply didn't use enough pressure on the clamps in your pic to leave any marks. Quote
Kidd Posted May 21, 2006 Posted May 21, 2006 That is a very nice looking boat. The ply wood on the hull has a real nice grain. I would hate to paint that. Quote
Ken_Potts Posted May 21, 2006 Author Posted May 21, 2006 Scott, It would be fun to sail in a fleet of B and B boats somewhere for a weekend - I think (since it's not far away from me of course) we ought to converge on Core Sound at some point... Or the Bahamas. Mike, You know I don't have any sense - Of course you'll get to sail it! Frank, Thanks for the kind words about the bad photography. Is there a chance Norton might be offended by the messiness of my shop? Feel free to axe that photo if it causes any problems (or let me know and I will). I can put another one up to replace it if need be. Garry - Thanks for spotting the clamp faux pas. I get really careful about clamps on areas that will be finished bright but often I get lax with surfaces that will be painted. I'm sure the boat will show off my work ethic :oops: Theoretically it will all get faired nicely but in actuality It will be a boat that people will KNOW is homebuilt Quote
Frank Hagan Posted May 21, 2006 Posted May 21, 2006 Ken, I couldn't find anything wrong with it, even taking it directly from the web server (which is a Linux system) and downloading it to scan it. So I think its probably something to do with Norton's sensitivity to images that are linked into a page rather than being a part of the page (in other words, a technical issue rather than anything wrong with the pic). I just wanted to make sure others didn't get the same problem. Quote
Ken_Potts Posted May 22, 2006 Author Posted May 22, 2006 Im glad to hear I'm not eating people's hard drives :wink: Quote
lbrewer Posted May 22, 2006 Posted May 22, 2006 My Norton didn't say anything about it. Looking good Ken Quote
Tom Williams Posted May 23, 2006 Posted May 23, 2006 Looks good Ken. With regards to the deck clamping. I used #4 X 1/2 inch pan head scews to hold the deck to the framing during build & the epoxy cure. I used #6 washers under the heads to minimize the imprint. I was envisioning a painted deck when I started but ended up finishing bright (& I'm glad I did). The small screws work out well because you can remove the decking and reinstall in exactly the same spot. If I could do it all overagain, I would have made some larger washers out of formica (or something similar) to better distribute the load. I was able to sand out most of the washer imprints but, a few were too deep. Keep plugging away. The season is still young! Tom Quote
Ken_Potts Posted May 23, 2006 Author Posted May 23, 2006 Thanks for the tip Tom. I was planning to coat the underside of the decks in the areas that aren't going to be epoxied to underlying lumber. I wanted to pre-coat so I didn't have to try to epoxy coat the underside of the decks by hanging upside down through the hatch But I still want to be bonding to bare wood in the places where the decks bond to the frames/stringers. this was pretty easy with the seat tops since there are only a couple of spots where framing crosses the panel (since the seat tops are bonded all around the edge it was an easy matter to mask off the outer edge when pre-coating). Using the screw idea I can pre-mount the deck pieces and scribe the frame outline on the underside of the deck then remove the screws and pre-finish the underside to the scribed lines. Come to think of it there's no real reason to wait for the "pre-finished" areas to cure - I can scribe the glue boundaries, then coat the whole underside of the deck piece with thin epoxy, then go back over the areas that need to be bonded with thickened epoxy and screw the deck back down. Hey man, you just saved me a day of epoxy work! Sorry for the lengthy post but I was figuring out the process as I was typing. Maybe it'll help a fellow stitch-and-glue newbie out there somewhere... Quote
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