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Posted

Who's putting their boat away? looks like it might be a little wet this weekend but if the weather is at least a little dry next I have plans... :twisted:

Posted

Agreeed Capt. But I am still sailing and building. But I did bore the multitude with splinters. I still check in, but until I get some glits, I only post in stages.

Posted

I may get out yet this winter, we'll have to wait and see.

Stump, I have seen several motors for sale recently, pretty reasonable too.

Craig, cold water! You don't know cold. ;)

Oyster, I really don't think you bored anybody. To the contrary, I think you had most of us enthralled with our progress.

I have completed most of my modifications.

1 - New dock lines

2 - counter weighted the rudder

3 - Manufactured a gaff bridle saddle and re-rigged. (I'll have to get some pictures one of these days). Bronze plate and sheaves.

4 - 1/2 oval on the keel

5 - steps on the tongue of the trailer (to keep me feetsys out of the cold water).

I have a fiberglass canoe in the shop that needs new gunwales. I tried to talk the client out of it as the boat is pretty shot. He is inistant about saving it. :roll: I have most of the old polyster resin glue ground off of it (read, most). ;) He'll get Southern Yellow Pine for the seats and WRC for the gunwales (if I ever get motivated on it). :);)

Posted

i'm still trying to use some of the good advice i gleaned off the board last week. so far, rigging changes are slow...i get out there and just piddle around, but...the throat and peak have been lead back into the cockpit. i have the throat on a cleat and the peak on a cam cleat...it isn't uniform or anything but until i figure out what i like while sailing...it will do. My next project is remove the boom and do it right - i just used some chair rail in a hurry for the launch and it is a little crooked and stuff.

slow but she goes:

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hopefully, before the 19th of november i will have the brightwork cleaned up and varnished and the topside repainted (i see the virtue of gloss paint now - she was painted with satin and i can't get her cleaned up)

a.

Posted

I see you have parrel beads, as I do. I had one break during a downwind run, wing on wing. I figure it was because of the 'mast', as the beads roll up and down fine, but side to side they hang up a bit. I was attempting wooden mast hoops, but so far I haven't any luck in bending them.

Painting already! :shock: Doesn't sound like my kind of fun. ;)

Posted
I see you have parrel beads' date=' as I do. I had one break during a downwind run, wing on wing. I figure it was because of the 'mast', as the beads roll up and down fine, but side to side they hang up a bit. I was attempting wooden mast hoops, but so far I haven't any luck in bending them.

Painting already! :shock: Doesn't sound like my kind of fun. ;)[/quote']

Why are you bending the hoops Jake? I was looking at Mike Feilds site and recalled a yarn I had with him awhile back about them and his view is that its easy enough to turn them on a lathe... even the ones that are hinged can be turned then cut and fitted easily... so said Mike

Im still to get that far but its how I will be going 8)... well if Mike Field bein an east coaster can do it then so can I by gar! :twisted:

Cheers

Posted
I didn't think that a hoop would have enough strength being turned; as the grain would be oriented in one direction. I must find his site again and take another like I suppose. :) If turning is a viable option' date=' well then, that will be easy. :)[/quote']

I am guessing, but if you cut across a log, then attached the center of the piece to the chuck, then turned it, the grain runs around the center and would be very strong. I have no real idea how to do this exactly, but can speculate. I have some seasoned Maple, Oak, and Walnut logs, all about 10 to 12 inches in diameter, in the ravine. I may cut some pieces and try this. Lots of apple and cherry available here now too if I can beat the firewood folks to the splitter.

Posted

I picked up a bunch of Apple about 8 years ago for turning stock. I sealed the ends with wax to limit the splitting. I didn't get to the wood until it was down for about a week and was already starting to split. Though the sealant limited teh split, it conitued along the same lines. If I had gotten to it when it hit the ground, I maight have had a better chance.

Posted

Well Dingo, I am taking a similar approach now. somebody else suggested making them out of marine ply. Being as I don't have any 3/4" ply on hand; I just glued up 3 pieces of 1/4" instead. I had losts of pieces of that, so the price is right. ;) Should be plenty strong at 15 plies in 3/4". Trying out some of that Gorilla glue on this as well. :shock: It seemed to work fine on the oars I made.

I'll let them cure (duh! :) ) and then drill a hole in the center of each square (7 5/8"). Then chuck it to an arbor and into the lathe. Shouldn't be too hard to replicate 6 of them. :)

Posted

Well, its not been too slow around here. I took a few hours this morning and wandered around the waterfront and then returned for some R&R in the shop. Its beginning ot look like a boat. The amount of room foward is about twice the space of my 20, just by the area that the deck winds up to be with the increased proportions.

If you look closely at the bow shot of the new hull, to the left beside the roughed in centerboard trunk, you will see a yellow tool there that is my fine arts fitting tool for my joints. :lol: At 12,000 rpm, the joints end up perfect each and every time.

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Posted

8.3 flight hours logged today. Seven trips to Slema, Al and back. The data rushes don't look good so it's going to have to be reflown after some radar adjustments. Tomorrow I sail come hell or high water.

You are right Jake, comparatively the water is never cold here. That is until you've been her for 20+ years.

Posted

Those are nice pictures. Oyster, are those pictures of your current project and teh one you recently completed?

I have three of the hoops roughed out. While cutting the inside (on the lathe) there was a bit of tear out on the opposite side. Oh well, I was wishing them to be a tad thinner anyway! :) Off to the disk sander, the really large one. ;)

Posted

October 20th in the cabinet industry, traditionally, marks the official start of the "OMG, people are coming to the house for Thanksgiving/Christmas and we have't finished the spare bedroom we bought lumber/materials for last Thanksgiving/Christmas" season. October 29th traditionally marks the day when I completely lose my 8) from working far too many (usually, uh, 9) 12-18 hour shifts in a row.

My hull bottom is spliced, glued, and screwed together, with the exception of the starboard side piece and the stringers. It has been like that for, oh, 9 days.... :evil:

Luckily, the rest of the work I have lined up this year is non-retail commercial, so I should only have to worry about year-end stuff, not holiday garbage. So, next week...game on - back to the boat!

(done griping now)

Posted

Greg,

The challenge with using a slice across a log and then turning on the center is that the grain on the hoops will all be running at its weakest (vertically) on the thin profile. What we want is the grain to run lengthwise around the hoop continuously. Ideally we would take thin veneer strips (1/16" thick) about 12' long and laminate them into hoops. They can be laminated several inches high and then just cut into the height you want them to be. Then the grain all runs around the hoop.

The biggest challenge with plywood is that all the grain is running the wrong way. Baltic Birch with really thin laminates might work out fairly well but any hoop from plywood will have to be really thick in both height (layers) and in thickness for it to have enough stress loading capabilities.

Makes for interesting turning challenges though. :lol: Hard to turn with the chisel working with the grain as it is all against the grain no matter where you are in the hoop.

But you could try heating it up after turning it and soaking it with thinned epoxy to see just how much it will soak up to strengthen it.

Frank tried making some from wood edge tape, don't think they held up or were thick enough. Right concept but wrong material.

Straight grain Ash, Hickory, White Oak Elm or Locust and Slow cure plastic resin glue with the strips wound tightly over a removable core and between flanges to allow it to be tight enough to bond but not slip would make up blanks that could then be sliced off to make up the hoops after it had cured fully.

Then heat up boiled linseed oil to soak them for several hours (days) until they won't take anymore. Let them dry completely and then buff them out. They should be both strong enough and finished out just fine.

But to replace a broken parrel bead, just slice it (a new one) inhalf and epoxy it together again over the wire. I would also recommend that the enitire parrel bead hoop be soaked in HOT boiled linseed oil if they are already made up or if not then soak the beads before making them up. The linseed oil will be drawn into the pours and when it dries it makes them a lot stronger and less apt to break. And they are then protected well from the elements.

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