sscoville

I lived in Chas. for a few years, but I never did any boating while there. The Charleston Yacht Club - http://www.charlestonyachtclub.com/ is right downtown. From looking at their webpage it does not look like you'll be able to put your boat in there or anything, but I would call them with your questions. A friend of mine who still lives there tells me that there are no convenient boat ramps downtown, but there are some just outside of town. It's good you're planning ahead. If I recall correctly, Ansonborough is near the old city center. Driving even a small car w/o a trailer can be a challenge - parking too. I think the closest boat ramp is across the Ashley River, off of Folly road, on Wappoo Creek. You may be able to park your car with the trailer at the city parking garage which is at the end of Calhoun St. - next to the aquarium.

Tom, didn't I read once that you use an Anderson and a traditional drain w/ plug at the transom? I'm assuming with this set up you can leave the transom drain open when the boat's on the trailer and use the Anderson only when underway. Unless I misunderstand the function of the Andersons.

I check on it every day. Y'all look to be moving right along. I'm anxious to see the planking go on the rest of the bottom. I don't know how you're planning to do the interior, but if you do it as designed, you could be finished by Xmas!

Now when y'all say "caulk around the centerboard trunk," are you referring to all the joints between the trunk and thwart, or where exactly?

My plans seem to indicate that the thwarts get screwed to the centerboard trunk and side cleats without epoxy. Is this the usual practice?

I would like to paint it white all over, masts and all, with some red or dark red accent stripes - maybe a boot stripe and one near the sheerline. If it gets too dirty, put fresh paint on it. Have any experience with white white, as opposed to off white? I was told to avoid white white inside because of the glare it will cause. I like the way it looks, however.

The area where I intend to sail my boat is mostly brackish water. I was going to paint the hull white, however, I am concerned that this will take on the inevitable dirty brown very quickly. Anyone have any insight on what color would hide the staining best?

I think I'm just going to make it from fiberglass.

I am going to make my masts from wood which means they'll be 3" in diameter at the bottom. I have 3" some pvc electrical (I think it's fire retardant). Couldn't I use this for the main mast tube?

I came across this on the Wooden Boat Forum. I have no experience with sailing, so I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure the last couple of pages regarding different sailing techiniques is about the Cat Ketch rig. http://www.scribd.com/doc/20074759/Joy-of-Sharpies#key1tdep865gsmt21lyac8a

I know how to orient the grain if I'm laminating two pieces of wood. With these masts, however, I first have to scarf about 3 additional feet onto each 16 ft. piece. I have never paid any attention to the grain orientation when scarfing, which means often the grain changes at the joint. Do I need to set up the scarf joints so that the grain is consistent for the entire length and then alternate the grain when laminating?

Thank you both. Epoxy it is.

Today I bought some "european spruce/white pine" from the local lumber yard to make my masts with. I am going to laminate two 2x4s to get the 3" diameter I need. I was hoping to be able to use TItebond glue to do this, but I'm worried that even though the wood is "finished," I may have some gaps in there. Should I go with thickened epoxy insead, or should the titebond do even though it doesn't have much gap filling property?

Great progress. Did y'all decide on an engine yet? It appears each frame is made up of 5 to 6 pieces, plus gussets, is that right? And are you using cypress for the frames?

That's great. Thank you very much.

I have almost completed the gluing up the various pieces which make up the side seat hatches and I have the side chamber/side seat tops ready to install. I want to make sure I get the order of installation correct. Do I glue the seat tops on and then cut the piece for the hatch top from the seat along with cutting through the inboard stringer and side of the chamber/seat? And then take my assembled hatch, less the cover, glue it into the cut out, then attach the cover?

I'll be there. I live in Georgetown. Last year was the first time I really paid it any attention. Although I've never been to any other boat shows, I'd definitely classify it as small. How "good" is it? I can only say I enjoy it and look forward to it - but it's the one time the boats come to me.

Tom, are you coming to the Wooden Boat Show in Georgetown this year?

I think Raka carries either 4oz or 6oz. From what I've read, it takes so much because of all the space between the weave, not that the weave absorbs so much, but I'm not sure about this. I think you basically have to build up the rest of the boat to make it even with the outside of the Xynole.

If we assume the hull is 170 sq ft, I'm looking at about 6.3 gallons of epoxy? That seems like twice what say 10 oz glass would require. I wonder if it's worth it.

I am getting ready to order epoxy to sheath my hull with xynole. I've never used Xynole. Does anyone have a formula for determining how much epoxy it will take?

The one thing I've found about outboards is, the more you use it, the better it'll work. Don't use it, you'll have issues. There's obviously more to it than this and I think it's true of any engine that if you don't run it with some regularity, you'll have trouble.

What design is it?

Well she looks very nice.