sscoville

http://hiltonhead.craigslist.org/boa/4580994851.html

I think PAR and Howard are both right. I think my mizzen was just along for the ride. I set the sails up with the boat trailered and took a look at some things. For one, I had my sprits set 1' too high on the masts according to the plans. The main had slipped down about 8" from the top of the mast (although this could have happened after I went sailing). This is the second time I've noticed the main had done this and all I can figure is the way I tied it to the mast allowed it to do that. Howard, my sails are laced on and I don't have reef points, so I currently have only 1 option for reefing. I re-laced the main and lowered the sprits on both. Now, I think I just need to find a better way to attach the turning block for the mizzen sheet where it comes down the mast. Also Howard, I believe that raising the board does reduce weather helm / increase lee helm. A sailing buddy suggested this to me one day saying he read to do this online to reduce heeing. I thought it would increase heeling. When I did it, the heeling force became much lighter and slower and I felt the weather helm ease. I then noticed that we were able to keep our course much better as we weren't having to slow down to round up all the time. This came up on this board when I capsized my boat for the first time. Apparently, many on here are not aware of this tactic. Here in Beaufort, I'm having to learn to deal with the significant current as well. I rammed my boat into some others and the dock the other day because I completely misjudged the force of the current.

How are y'all attaching the turning block to the mast for the mizzen sheet? I currently have a block with an eye strap. This is the point of most friction in the run of my sheet and I need to change it. It seems like it would be better if the block could rotate with the sail and sprit. Has anyone attached this block to the forward end of the sprit? The next best thing I can think to do is to use a block and strap which allow better movement. Another idea - what about suspending the block from the strap a few inches with a piece of line, allowing the block to move that much more with the sprit?

Give it a try and you'll see. It's counterintuitive to me. Search Google or maybe someone here can explain it.

Interesting thought about my rudder. I didn't notice if it was less than completely down. Raising the board a bit will reduce heeling force. One problem I'm having with the new running rigging set up is that the mizzen is poorly shaped when close hauled. I need to take a look with it up in the yard. One place I deviated from the plans on the masts was that I used closet rod at the top which is about 1/8 smaller diameter than the plans call for. And, it's poplar, not fir. It flexes quite a bit. This is all the lumber yard had. I think when I haul the mizzen in close, the top flexes, causing sail shape to suffer. Does that sound logical? I am also unsure whether I've been setting the forward end of my sprit too high with the new masts. When I was sailing yesterday with so much weather helm, the mizzen would luff and I would try and sheet it in some more. From the suggestions above about easing the mizzen, I'm wondering if this is all related. More thoughts, suggestions?

Yesterday I was out sailing my BRS 17 in 10-20 mph winds by myself. I had intended to go for a relaxing sail, have a drink, etc. Shortly after I left the dock I turned from a run to a broad reach and woosh, I was off! I jibed and tacked around for a while and decided to head back to the dock for a respite and maybe to take one mast out. I ended up going out again with a friend and the wind had picked up a bit more. The boat was difficult to for to sail, particularly the second go. I had so much weather helm and when I would tack, I would inevitably stall before picking up speed again. I would have to ease the main and then sheet it in. It was gusty too. I had the board only 2/3 down to reduce heeling. Anyway, I found the boat unwieldly during the second sail. Should I have reefed before going back out? Is that what the boat was telling me? It was not much fun fighting the boat constantly. It is good to see that I can manage the boat in these winds, knowing to ease the main, hike, and turn up into the wind. I can't emphasize enough how superior I find the aluminum masts over my old solid spruce ones. Also, my new rigging set up with swivel cam cleats. My mizzen setup still needs tweaking as the sheet does not run very freely as it is.

http://hiltonhead.craigslist.org/boa/3905298175.html Boat has recently upgraded aluminum masts and rigging. 843-240-9287 Sam

Well my new masts are basically finished. I may paint the wood sections at some point. I laced my sails on and am concerned that my lacing may chafe where the two aluminum sections join. Anyone had a problem with this?

Well, I recieved my aluminum and was able to work the smaller one into the larger one just by hand, without any reaming. I am considering simply putting some unthickened epoxy on the smaller one, sliding it in 9 inches and then applying some thickened epoxy at the outside joint. Then, for extra assurance, I was going to put two screws through each section at the overlap. Is there any reason to be concerned about the tight fit and expansion? I would assume the tubes would expand and contract at the same rate. Also, they are currently stuck together, though they went in easily enough. I'm going to heat the larger tube a bit and see if I can slide the smaller ones out. Finally, how should I clean the outside of the aluminum so I don't always turn my hands black when I handle them?

And no stop collar either?

So are the glass collars still necessary?

I suspected that was the story behind the reamer. Thanks!

My plans call for the bottom sections to be made from 8' x 2.5" x .083 tubing and the upper secction to be made from 2.25" OD. I cannot find the 2.5 x .083 and I have a note that Graham previous told me that 2.5" x .125 could be substituted. I see, however, that this has an inside diameter of 2.25". It seems obvious that the upper section with the 2.25 OD will not fit. Am I missing something? I don't know what the inside diamter of the .083 would be as I haven't found any.

There is a bullseye fairlead on the cleat.

Peter HK, do you use stand up blocks in combo with your rotating bullseye/cam cleats? I bought the cam cleats with bullseyes and was hoping that was all I needed for the mainsheet, except the block on the end of the sprit. I see Tom uses stand up blocks with his.

I believe the BRS 17 calls for two aluminum sections and the a wooden section. I have laced sails, so I won't be using a track. I just need to figure out the dimensions of the aluminum pieces. I have my plans somewhere. Does anyone see a problem with my idea to build up the masts to fit my existing steps and tubing?

I initially built 3" diameter solid wood masts for my BRS 17 and now want to convert to aluminum. I haven't yet located my old set of plans to find the specs on the aluminum and how the parts go together, but I seem to remember that the sections are joined using fiberglass tape to make collars, but when doing a search of this forum I found nothing about this. I did find a post about "reaming" the aluminum. Can someone explain the how the masts are made from aluminum? Also, as my masts' steps are made to fit 3" masts, the aluminum masts will be too small. My plan is to build up the masts at their heel and top of the main mast tube and mizzen thwart using fiberglass tape, as opposed to installing a new mast tube, thwarts, etc.

I came accross this boat on Craigslist Wilmington identified as a "Silvia Skiff." I got some more photos and sent them to Graham to review. He agrees that this appears to be a fiberglass Bay River Runner built by the late Nelson Silva. If the bottom paint can be easily removed, I think it would clean up nicely. http://wilmington.craigslist.org/boa/3547684276.html

I like my sheets. The reason I was going to downsize is much of the hardward I've seen is for <1/2" line which is significantly cheaper than the >1/2" variety.

Any recommendations on which model of swivel cleats to use? I have 1/2" sheets now. I've been looking at the Ronstan and Harken cleats. It looks like I can save a little money by replacing my sheets with a 3/8" line and thus be able to use the small cleats.

How do y'all have your centerboards' uphaul/downhaul rigged? I'm thinking of re-rigging that too. It's too difficult to pull up or down now.

Great, thanks. I also need to invest in one of those fancy tiller extensions. My dowel works ok, but I think the retractable/adjustable type might be worth the money.

Thanks Peter. That's what I was looking for and I think it's the same setup Tom uses.

Yes, it is the sheet rigging I'm looking for. Tom told me about it at the Wooden Boat Show in Georgetown last year but it was not completely clear to me. I tried to search and found nothing either.

I'm interested in re-rigging my BRS and am trying to locate a photo of Tom's Lapwing showing the rigging. It's not his wishbone sprits I'm interested in, just the running rigging. Can anyone help or post photos of their own cat ketch rigging? I currently have my boat rigged with what I think is Graham's specs for the BRS and CS series.