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Wommasehn

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Everything posted by Wommasehn

  1. Hi Chick, this looks really cute! Would you like, telling us a bit more about these mini-boats ? where and for what you plan to use them, what kind of motor etc? Stay healthy Tobias
  2. Slowly I'm getting on....... As for my initial question, the lateral form, I decided to give it a moderate elliptical shape. The additional area is in the lower half at the trailing edge. To compensate for the larger area aft, I put the semi circle (which is inside the rudder-head and includes the pivot) a little aft too. The result is that most of the rudder moves a tad forward , thus providing a little more balance. I hope that the sailing characteristics will remain the same all in all - apart from improved rudder-bite when heeled. Then I glued the two half-blanks together. When I took off the clamps, I found that the whole thing was bent....... Having done the necessary cursing, I did a lot more of shaping the profile plus straightening the whole thing, mostly by hand-planing, until it looked/felt good enough. I used a negative template for the NACA-profile. For attaching the haul up , I made a tag of copper and rivetet it to the trailing edge. Here is the dry fit with the old blade for comparison. (For whatever reason, I still can't fit a picture inside the text) Meanwhile, I epoxied and glassed the whole thing and put on two coats of primer. So its mostly ready.
  3. Peter, thanks for your reply and thoughts. As for the material, I had thought about that , but decided otherwise because building with solid staves is much more time consuming - and time is crucial for me ( I have to work a real lot). And then the old rudder blade had lasted for some 25 years, made of plywood and not glassed. So I hope that the new one will have sufficient strength when I glass it over and make a more gradual transition from the rectangular section which is inside the rudder head to the profiled main part which gets immersed. Thus creating less of a weak spot (where the old blade has broken as you can see on the photo). Cheers Tobias
  4. Hi everybody, Muckla needs a new rudder blade, the old one broke on my autumn-cruise (maybe I'll write down how and post it in the Boating and Cruising Stories). I bought marine ply and started building the new blade. Now that I've got to do that, I'd like to make a better one. This means a stronger onde above all - but at times, when she heeled, the old rudder lost its bite. I don't like to have a longer blade as this would give more leverage and thus a higher risk of braking again - but I think, it should have a greater area towards the lower end. As for the profile, I have setteled for NACA 0012 and even started ro route my half-blanks to that profile (see pic). But I am unsure about the shape (sidewise-view). The old blade has this elliptical shape which is said to have little drag. Any ideas about how much more drag I might get when I make a fatter ellipse or even a straight downward side like on the Lasers appendages? I recall having read a contribution of the late PAR about that, stating that the elliptical shape would'nt be that much better - but I can't find it any more. So who knows more??
  5. hi Sanmi, my boat is a 20 ft centerboarder with a small cabin. In case you want further information: I wrote more about her in the main forum in Jan. 2019. The extension cable comes only in 2 meter-lengths. First I bought one which allowed to stow the battery under the side deck near the forward end of the cockpit. Better than above the transom but I was'nt completely happy with that. So I bought another 2 m and now I keep it in the cabin, There is a doubble-berth going from side to side and the battery sits under that on top of the keelson, thus contributing to the ballast. The Epropulsion-battery is in fact easy to install (I think, its quite similar to Torqueedo), so keeping it at some convenient place and putting it on if necessary seems quite sensible to me.
  6. for my Epropulsion spirit, I bought an extension to move the battery and it’s weight more forward & downward. This works well - but a special cable with special connections is required and they are disgustingly expensive. As I definitely wanted to move that weight and didn’t dare to extend those nine pin cables myself, I dug into my wallet.... All in all, I‘m quite happy with the electric OB even though it has lately let me down due to a loose connection (which after all was my own fault)
  7. I may be late on this topic. Some time ago, I asked about using pure citric acid for cleaning epoxy. From the replies then, I gathered that it hasn’t been tried by many. So I gave it a go. Works fine for me, doesn’t stink and it’s cheaply available - here at least. It comes as a powder to be mixed with water. No idea if it penetrates the skin but it is definitely easy to wash away.
  8. Glad that it didnt turn out worse and glad you shared this story. This about forgetting things: When I bought Muckla, my Diabolo, in 2009, she was in the water. I had a cold but sunny week of autumn cruising on Chiemsee in her before I took her out of the water and brought her home. So pulling her out, unrigging and trailering was all new to me. I was amazed, how hard it was to winch her on the trailer until I heared a crack and realized that I had forgotten to hoist the CB up. So the first repair was due to stupidity. Lesson learned, I thought - until it happened again this year.... Mucklas CB does have a downhaul, which I reguarly forget to uncleat when I should. I am not shure if this could prevent the CB from falling back and damaging the CB-trunk if she really capsized - but that's the reason why I always cleat it. I hope, I can never report if it does.
  9. I have the same motor (only a smaller battery) and I am quite happy with it for my 20 footer. Epropulsion as well as Torqueedo both sell a smaller version which might be sufficient for the Spindrift
  10. thanks Chick for reminding me. Read yesterday and enjoyed it very much. Please give my regards to the Old Codger who seems to be quite young at heart - in spite of his name. Maybe like his creator and maybe like most of us??? My dear wife at least was a bit surprised to hear that others speak with- and about their boats like that too ( she herself is a master in wording our dog’s thoughts though)
  11. I have seen it - and it looks really great. Congratulations to your umpteenth build!
  12. I agree with everything said in these posts. Only as for the vac I‘m ambivalent as it’s a nuisance for me. But dust is a nuisance too - and an unhealthy one. So you got to find some kind of balance between them. I love especially my vintage hand tools. As for planers, you certainly don’t need to copy my collection..... But apart from a good standard block plane, I strongly recommend the tiny pocket planer in the foreground. It’s not only cute but really very versatile. One of the things you often use, once you own them
  13. well, I have to admit that I did‘nt try this. I‘m only thinking/fantasizing. And this is what comes to mind: If it’s badly damaged, you can pull it off or grind /sand the remains away. If it is not badly damaged, you can leave it as it is - or give it a coat of epoxy - or patch it up with some similar stuff. No big deal in any case. Of course, some metal strip would be much more durable. But also much more work and cost. And the problem of how to fasten it - as this thread shows.
  14. why not the „Rope Trick“ or maybe modified as a „webbing trick“ , that‘s some hefty strap soaked in epoxy? Should be easily replaceable if necessary.
  15. Meanwhile, it occured to me that 1/2 throttle might mean different things: I understood it as half power, that's the 500 W. If someone means "half speed", that's with Muckla 2.5 kts or something like 200 W only. Counting like this, you will get a lot more range....
  16. Thanks. I do enjoy the vacation in Denmark very much. Having time with my wife is still among the best things possible, even after 32 years. And furthermore I brought my inflatable kayak . So some time on the water is guaranteed
  17. To start with your last question: no, I can't. I'm away on vacancies without the boat. When I go sailing the next time, I hope, I'll remember to bring something to measure the motor..... Yes, the motor indiates the watts deployed, for my last post, I have defined 572 00 W as halft throttle. My battery is the smaller one with 1000 Wh - and 1 hour runtime at full throttle when fully charged. Anyhow, 10 hrs. 1 at /2 thr. really seems a bit too much . It does not tell me the speed but the remaining run time at a given throttle setting. And the voltage and a rough percentege of battery charge.
  18. @ Joe: interestingly the prop's pitch is not in the paper manual I got with the motor but in the Www-version. Meanwhile, I tried the speed at half throttle , that's 500 W. The GPS showed just 4 kts, the battery was about 65% charged and the display showed a range of about 1h15. So my estimate of 90 minutes at 4.5 kts with fully charged battery was maybe too low or certainly a very conservative guess. In 4 or 5 hours of charging with the solar panel, the charge level was raised some 10%. In other words: charging the empty battery by solar panel would take several days of sunshine but if its about refilling the electricity used for a few minutes of motoring, the thing is completely adequate. I am still not sure if it is advisable to leave it on for weeks while I am away from the boat. Where I keep her during most of the season, there is no shore power available. But this is a small lake and there is no need for motoring long.
  19. my motor is "only" the Spirit 1.0 without the "plus". Thats the 1000Wh battery. Besides in calms, I use it to get in and out of harbour/marina/port/dock - (what are the differences?) and I also see it as a safety-feature as it should get me out of danger if I can't make that by wind power. I've had such situations. That is one reason why I would'nt like to get it out of some compartment before using it, the other reason is the weight and the 3rd the difficulty of finding such a compartment on board of Muckla. So it is the bracket on the transom. The cable to the battery is no major problem so far. There is a hole in an inspection port in the cockpit-wall, through which the plug fits and to further close it off, I carved a groove in an champagne-cork. The cable fits in the groove and the cork fits in the hole. The champange disappeared somewhere.....
  20. Thanks for reminding me. yes, its ready. All the edges cut and / or rounded over, some eposy-sculpturing at the new upper-forward end of the CB-trunk and the hanging knees and lots of sandig, varnishing, painting. Meanwhile, I could try it out on a 5 days-cruise on Lake Constance (together with the new electric OB). Was it worth all the work ? - its hard to say - but shurely, it is an improvement in usable space and in looks. I liked to wake up in the mornings under the freshly painted/varnished cabin roof and with a few centimetres more of space. I wonder if anyone can spot the differences between the before- and the after- pics.
  21. The battery is the original (see pic from a sellers website ). 1000Wh, 46 V. The cable is a fancy thing with 8 pins and some electronic communication going on. As I know nothing about that, I rather bought the original. The solar panel seems only to charge it in full sunlight . You were asking about my boat. She is a Diabolo, a 6m centerboarder. I wrote an extensive description in my post „Reading sailing characteristics....“ (just in case you like to know more about her). The Epropulsions sound is a soft kind of humming, like a comforting „don’t worry, I’m here“
  22. Ok, its been a while now... At least I had a chance to try out the Epropulsion. As expected, it is quiet and powerful and good to maneuver. In other words, I am happy with it. As I didnt like the idea of having the weight of the battery so far aft and so high up I bought a 2 metre (fairly expensive) extension cable and stowed the battery under the side deck. This left the battery-holding-bracket bare and funny looking. I fashioned a wooden cap which also serves as a handle. I also had to make some modifications to fit it to the geometry of my particular boat. I have to tilt it up/down plus swing the bracket up/down. Charging is done by shore power, or by solar panel or from the 12V-battery, so there are several options. If there is neither sunshine nor a socket at the jetty, I can stow the battery in my rucksack and carry it to some socket. It weighs about 10 kgs. The solar panel works only in bright sunshine. I measure speed by the GPs in my mobile phone, which is a bit fickle, so I got differing readings on max speed. It seems to be around 5 kts, which is clearly sufficient for me. Strange is that the 1000W Epropulsion is declared as equivalent to a 3 HP petrol-OB, but the max speed is significantly less as that of the 2,3 HP Honda, which pushed her to over 6 kts. I rarely drove it full throttle, because it was so loud. My normal travelling speed with the Honda was around 4,5 kts. At that speed, the Epropulsion gives me a range of around 90 minutes or so. Of course, going slower extends the range dramatically. I nowhere found an note about the prop's pitch. Can anybody tell me, how I might measure it from the prop - just for curiosity.
  23. When I introduced myself here, I said that I was planning to build a Coresound 20#3. Meanwhile, I have ditched - or at least postponed this plan and decided to rather improve my existing boat, a Diabolo named Muckla. Even taking on some tasks, that previously seemed too much work for me, would mean only a small fraction of the time and energy and money that a new build would take. As there were no major damages to fix, I thougti, I might tackle on some improvements. One of the few things, I don't like about Muckla, is the very small cabin with lots of corners and edges where I use to bump my head, shoulders, knees, ankles and so on. I found several of these corners and edges that could be taken away or at least softened. The side deck protrudes inside the cabin to form a handy window-sill with a coaming. Under this sill , there is the carling, which here does'nt have to be that hefty, but is heftily in the way. My first major task was to saw and plane away about an inch of this beam. An inch seemes a little gain - but it means a significant percentage of usable space. And there are the hanging knees that form a part of the mast-supporting frame. I dared to make these a bit narrower. On the first picture, you see the original status on the left and the narrowed version of knee and carling on the right. Down in the middle you see the forward end of the CB-trunk. I found out, that the most disturbing part of it is unnecessary too and I made the top-forward end shorter, narrower and rounder.(2nd /3rd / 4th pic). Another inch gained on each side and 2 forward. Unfortunately, after opening the CB-trunk, I found the serious damage, that I had missed before: the CB-uphaul somehow had caused a split in the CB includig a bulge on the CBs side. As taking out the CB is a really nasty task - and putting it back in es even worse , I decidet to repair it in situ. After cleaning out the debris inside the crack, I filled it first with neat, then with thickened epoxy and put a double piece of glass-tape over it, then sanded away the lateral bulge with angle grinder and sanding disk and epoxied over. Hope, that will do. (last pictures) I could'nt find out yet, how to insert photos inside the text, so I put them all at the end.
  24. I may be a bit late for a contribution here but I had the same problem a few years ago. It turned out hat the shackles, which attach the sail to the slide, slid inside the slides eye to windward, thus gaining some leverage, which caused the break. As I had problems back then to buy replacement slides, I made one - to have at least the most important one - from aluminium. Later, I fashioned thin bolts going across the shackles that prevent the shackle from slidig too far. No breakage since then.
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