Greg Luckett

How did this thread get broken into two different ones?

I am most interested in hearing from those who have built a CNC machine, such as and I thought someone had posted about it on this thread but now I cannot find it. My Carvewright does some very remarkable work but I would like a larger flat bed CNC that would allow me to take my CAD drawing and use CAM for creating repetitive products. Labor is my most expensive and least available item. The right CNC should fix a lot of that problem.

Thanks Justin. I have wondered about those Sharks. Can it carve graphics and logos as well as the letters? I used my Carvewright machine a few years ago to carve dolphins and seahorses which then became part of the Spindrift 12s build. I think a flat bed cnc would be handy for making boat details too. It is interesting that you are making robotic parts. I would like to know more about that but this forum is probably not the right place for that discussion. You might email me if you like. Thanks again.

I do not know this for sure but I think the one Graham built is primarily for cutting out shapes from panels. The purpose of the CNC will play a major part of deciding which one is right. I want to do signs, furniture, boxes, etc., with custom carvings on them. This is some very detailed types of carving.

PAR, thanks for asking. Personal opinions, experiences with the building and operating, expectations vs hind sight evaluations, that sort of thing PAR. I have been watching videos online and there is a wealth of information but it is mostly by places wanting to sell CNC related plans, parts, etc. I have been trying to sift through lots of postings too but am finding it difficult to determine what is valid for my searching. I do not want to build a machine and then find that if I had chosen a different one that it would work better. I wonder about software, accuracy of the tooling, vibration that adversely affects the tooling, noise levels, etc. I want a CNC for carving into wood and plastic, for making pictures in those materials. I currently use a Carvewright machine but it has many problems with keeping it running. I want a CNC that I can easily repair, does not often need repairs, and that will complete a carving without BS shutdowns and material losses.

Michel, May I ask how much it ended up costing and if you were able to build it all yourself? It looks very solid and stable.

Wow, that is both impressive and huge. What are you using it for?

I am wondering if any of our boat builders have built a CNC machine?

I am wondering if any of our boat builders have built a CNC machine?

Thanks for sharing and the pictures. I will keep an eye out for more.

Sweet and inspiring. Congratulations.

Oyster, what kind of fish are those?

I have seen the yellow pine used for boat framing and ribs and it did well there, but not for hull planking.

Roy Espirtu let me know via Facebook that Ray was looking for me, and then Mike and Charlie too. Sorry I missed the inquiries; I need to check in on the forums more often. My father died July 22, which I have been dealing with, and am down in Texas at the moment. His funeral was last Saturday, Aug. 18, in Alvin, Texas..I have been spending as much time as I can while here in Texas with my mother. We are heading over to Dripping Springs, Texas, today to visit with a couple of Edith's good friends. That is just the other side of Austin about 40 miles. We expect to be back to Michigan later this week. Ray, what email address have you been using for me? Greg.

I just noticed this thread and was a little concerned at first. Frank, thank you for keeping this up and running.

Max, I am having real doubts about you. I built my S12 a couple of years ago and did not find anything amiss with the plan set or the BOM. Graham and Carla have always been available except when that last hurricane nailed them. I have spent time on the phone with both of them, more than any other designer has done with me. My S12 was my 6th boat using the stitch and glue method. I have built other kinds, such as lapstrake and the Stevenson's Amphora, as well as refurbished several of the big plastic boats.

I started at the bow on the Spindrift but only because that was the sharpest bend and I did not want scarfed joints on the outer strips until toward the stern. I did the oppisite on the inner strips due to the way the strips pushed themselves together near the bow. I "feel" the wood to decide how to put things together.

I found this to be a good book. How to Build Glued-Lapstrake Wooden Boats [Hardcover] John Brooks (Author), Ruth Ann Hill (Author) http://www.amazon.com/How-Build-Glued-Lapstrake-Wooden-Boats/dp/0937822582

Who said it was lame, Charlie? Welcome back.

I put in a nice eye bolt as that is all I had ever seen used since I was a kid. Carla convinced me that the rope through the hole was a better idea. I plan to alter my Spindrift 12S by removing the eyebolt and also making wooden covers for the chainplates and their respective bolts. I like the idea of holes in the quarter knees. My original plan was some cleats but I just did not like the idea of stumping them with my fingers or toes. The rope and hole method solves all of my concerns. Thank you!

John, I did the last test on the bonding two years ago. I then did the Spindrifts gunnels with white oak. I also built the center board with white oak, walnut, and sassafras. I started the bonding test about 5 years ago, but had been using epoxy and white oak for about 10 years. I have never had an epoxied glue joint fail. I have also used Gorilla Glue with great success, with stools and a baby cradle made years ago, used daily, and no signs of any failure of joints.

Just in case I somehow confused things, I am not referring to the epoxy mixing ratios, although that tells us that the epoxies are different chemically, which may affect the bonding to white oak. Graham has told me he did not trust white oak and epoxy, which is why I ran the bonding tests.

I do not know if the kind of epoxy makes any difference. I have been using West Systems to date. When I can finally kick off my PS26 build I plan to use the epoxy from B&B. I should order some for testing in the mean time.

No, John, nothing special. I get my lumber from local mills, after it has been kiln and air dried, in a 4/4 thickness, then I plane and shape it as needed. I have run test joints using the white oak, sassafras, and walnut glued together. Using a wrench with a long bar as well as just smacking it with a hammer, and at 1 day, 2 weeks, 2 months, and two years, the Sassafras would break, or the Walnut, but not the oak or the glued joints. I have been using white oak for about 10 years now for boat building.

On my Sprindrift 12, using white oak strips, 1/4 x 2 inches, one on the outside of the 6mm Okume and one on the inside. Then I placed a cap on top made from 8 foot long Okume 6mm. All joints were made by first coating with epoxy resin, then epoxy mixed will micro baloons and maple wood flour to fill any gaps or spaces. Then the top was rounded off with a 3/8 rounding bit and a router. It came out really nice looking. There were pics posted here in 2010 in this forum but I do not know where they have been moved to. I can repost or send them to you.