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Pete McCrary

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Everything posted by Pete McCrary

  1. Because I didn’t think of it !!! I just looked it over and tried a hand-held dry fit. With the scooped blades — their forward (concave) sides fit real nice against the seat sides. Probably a better arrangement. Not on the floor of either cockpit and some foot purchase for hiking. Without some latching or “snap-in” mechanism — not as secure (from floating away in a tip-over) as my present arrangement. I’ll probably do it and have it both ways. But not until I’m in the mood to again messabout the boat. Right now — I just want to sail her. Thank you Don.
  2. This subject was discussed early in my building of Chessie. I can’t find it now, but it my post was on the leaderboard. I had complained that I’d been unable to find an insurer after inquiring with typical home and auto agent — and had given up. Later, I tried again at BoatUS. Their agent informed me about typical boat insurance. It is available for home-builts. And often homeowners and umbrella policies don’t cover the liabilities unique to watercraft use. And a very big difference is the property damage payout [your own boat] is on a “declared value” basis, not “fair market value.” That avoids big arguments about depreciation and value. To be sure, in order for my “declared value” to be accepted, I had to provide a lot of design info and photos of the build and finished product. The coverage was for both boat, trailer, and equipment. My declared value for Chessie and trailer was about $16,000 — a little over what I managed to sell her for. After checking with my umbrella agent, I got liability coverage to the limit required by the umbrella insurer. The liability and property damage policy cost me about $300/year. When selling her, the BoatUS agent cooperated with transferring (or reinsuring with new owner) so that there wouldn’t be “an insurance gap.” To get their insurance you need to be a BoatUS member (~$50/yr) for which there are some benefits like a towing discount, West Marine gold card discounts, and subscription to their magazine which has good safety and maintenance tips that you’d expect from an insurer. Also, often other interesting articles. PS — Note that liabilities unique to watercraft (and perhaps not covered by homeowners or other insurance) could be high. Consider owner/skipper allowing novice to sail in rough conditions, crew injured or killed on sailing under small craft warnings, or just defending a claim of liability in a collision involving a death. Yes, rare. But that’s what insurance is for — and piece-of-mind that should a rarity occur, it might not ruin you.
  3. ATTENTION Spindrift BUILDERS . . There are four mast locations that are critical for proper sail bending and sail adjustments (when) sailing. These you have control of during construction — and a fifth dimension (the distance between the tac and head cringles on the sail’s luff) that the sailmaker establishes from the sail plan. The four are: The two stopper bushings, the gooseneck, and the halyard pulley at the masthead. If the sum of the distances between them (on the assembled mast) is too short, then the skipper will not be able to properly tension the sail’s luff. on Seabiscuit that sum was enough so that only a slight tension could be set when the sail was raised to its maximum. In order to have the control I wanted, I needed the halyard pulley to be higher (but not by much.). So I fabricated an extension plug that raised the masthead pulley by 1.5”. Here’s are a couple of photos. This pulley arrangement is an alternative to a cheek block at the head of the smallest mast section — which would prevent “nesting” of that section into the middle section of the mast assembly. See builder’s post of October 14, 2020, on page 2 of this build.
  4. I’ve had success with Southern White Pine. It has a good strength to weight ratio, but fairly expensive for clear pieces. A few knots are tolerable, which can be drilled out with a hole cutter saw and then plugged. Also Douglas Fir — available at Home Depot in large widths (2 x 10s or larger in long lengths).
  5. The building of Seabiscuit is now complete. Here she is in her best red, white, green and gray livery: The mast, boom, sail, and rigging lines are in the red Sunbrella cover. Seabiscuit has registered to enter the Triton 3 (mile) race on May 22 at the Big Little Boat Festival being hosted by Chesapeake Light Craft. https://www.clcboats.com/boatbuilding_classes/700.html There are three other races: A 1 mile for beginners, an 8 mile, and a 20 mile. We will do our best and report on our performance. Wish us luck!
  6. Don and Dave,... I have a cedar strip canoe that I made in 2003 — and it’s covered with FG, then about 4 coats of UV blocking varnish. Still looks good, but then it’s not often used and it’s always been stowed in a garage.
  7. For Dave,... Not any water coming up when rowing without much wave action. But on a test run using the motor, there was a lot of water splashing up thru the CB trunk. Made a wet mess of the rowing thwart. Same would probably happen if towed as a tender. For Don, ... The Spindrift 10 doesn’t have a down haul — but the boom vang or reefing line (if reefed) would hold the mast in its step, so also would the halyard while sailing. But if her sail is furled (or lowered & stowed) and boat is being rowed, towed, motored, anchored, moored, knocked down, turtled, or even docked — her mast could be jostled enough to bounce it an inch and a half out of its step. Even an unseen pot-hole at the ramp — or on the water in calm conditions, a rouge wake could wreck havoc. So, the turning of a thumb screw “finger tight” is a small chore to eliminate even a slight worry.
  8. Dave — The photos of the bow chock and painter may be a bit misleading. The winch line doesn’t come over the bow — it goes thru the hole in which a bow-eye would be installed. The aft side of the hole is reinforced with a yellow pine doubler. The 3/8” winch & tow line is made fast (on the boat side) with an eight-knot — and the bitter end is reeved thru a hole cut in the breast hook just aft of the bow-line chock. For towing, the line going out forward thru the chock is used to hold the bow down tightly against the trailer’s bow roller. The other end (going out thru the stem) ends with a bowline loop for the winch hook. Here you see the line going over the bow, down under the wooden stabilizing block, up thru a hole in the block, and belayed to a cleat. To make a snug and tight hookup, the winch is made slack — then the stop knot is pulled tight up against the underside of the breasthook, and while pushing down on the bow, the down haul line is pulled tight and belayed to the cleat. At that point the slack is taken up on the winch line — which pulls the stop knot down and close up against the aft side of the stem. Now the winch is tightened to proper tension — and the bow is held tight against the bow roller from two directions at right angles to each other. The combination of the stopknot and bowline loop knot (on opposite sides of the stem) assure that the 3/8” line is always with the boat. It’s bitter end (up thru the hole in the breasthook) serves as a short painter. But more useful, it’s a terminus for a much longer painter needed at launch to keep the boat from getting away from the dock after launching off the trailer.
  9. Here are some of Seabiscuit’s features. A bow line chock cut from a scrap of 3/4” marine ply. Once I arrived at the launch ramp only to discover I didn’t bring a painter. Now it’s always present — don’t need to remember to bring it [along]. Aft cockpit showing oars held in stowed position snug up against their chocks. Here one of the docking lines is used for a left-hand purchase for hiking. Note that the [same] line can also be used for foot-purchase [in hiking]. Forward cockpit looking aft. The paddle doubles as a boat hook. It can be extended to almost 9’. The red stick along side the oar is a folding “X” crutch that is deployed to keep the boom above head-level while rowing. Plug for CB housing while not sailing. CB plug deployed. When rowing the skipper will sit on the cushion and won’t be bothered by the lumpy seat top. View forward. Throw cushion, scoop bailer in which the small anchor is stowed. Also waterproof sandals in case the skipper is dumped into shallow water. In another posting Seabiscuit will be shown in her final “livery.”
  10. Note that the Spindrift mast does not rotate and is kept in line by a key that’s on the heel of the mast shat slips into a “keyed” receptacle at the bottom of the step. However, if a Spindrift mast would be designed to rotate, the stop-collar could easily rotate [with it] — and its outside profile would only need to be cut to a circular shape. Because bulkhead #1 is just 1/2” forward of the mast (at its heel), the outside radius of the collar would have to be limited to < 1/2” greater than the mast radius.
  11. Remember my “tube” fix to keep the mast in its step? Well, I abandoned that concept — and went with a “stop-collar.” Here it is: Fabricated from two pieces of marine ply (3/4” & 1/2”), each having a band-saw cut into it (from the side) and then a circle cut [out of it] the same diameter as in the step and partner. The pieces then glued together (outside cuts not in alignment). Then a hole was drilled and tapped for a 3/8” thumb tap-screw. I first considered simply tapping a hole into the partner (for the tap-screw) — but I was concerned that it might weaken the 3/4” partner just at its point of greatest stress. So, I went with the stop-collar concept. This is how it works: Collar just after stepping the mast. Collar lifted snugg up against partner with thumbscrew tightened against mast. Under-side of partner and set just thumb tight. The stop-collar is shaped to slightly straddle the mast step and fit nicely between bulkhead #1 and anchor for the mast rigging lines. Finished stop-collar in it’s non-sailing or transport position. In the photo the oar handles are in their stowed positions held snug against their chocks.
  12. Received this from Textron Systems Retirees Association. Thought some of our forum members might enjoy it. “Do You Remember? Did You Have One? Do You Still Have One? “‘A TSRA Member recently sent us this humorous paragraph on the ancient computing device called a Slide Rule. “BREAKING NEWS: Mathematics Teacher Arrested at JFK... A school teacher was arrested today at JFK International airport as he attempted to board a flight while in possession of a ruler, a protractor, a compass, an ancient wooden device called a “slide-rule” as well as a code device called an “abacus” that he claimed was a calculator. At a morning press conference, the new Attorney General selectee said he believes the man is a member of the notorious Al-Gebra movement. He did not identify the man, who has been charged by the FBI with carrying weapons of math instruction. “Al-Gebra is a problem for us,” the Attorney General said. “Al- Gebra has terrorized many young people for years. They derive solutions by means and extremes and sometimes go off on tangents in search of absolute values” “They use secret code names like ‘X’ and ‘Y’ and refer to themselves as ‘unknowns,’ but we’ve determined that they belong to a common denominator of the axis of medieval with coordinates in every country.”
  13. Well spoken, Don. As a freshman physics major, I bought “cheap,” a used K & E rule that looked just like your Versalog — from a graduating senior named “Iverson.” The name sticks because over the next 30 years of use I would see his name that he had written on the lovely leather case with white paint. At AVCO Everett Research Laboratory, where I worked until 1977, we gave our customers, as good-will “favors,” a pocket Sama & Etani circular rule shown below: A useful and handy reference easily carried in a shirt pocket. Besides an instruction booklet with reference tables, the rule itself had an insert that was inscribed with convenient conversion tables for Length, Area, Volume, Mass, Energy, Pressure, Velocity, Flow Rate, Gas Constant Values, and other Constants & Data. Also decimal equivalents of n/64 (for n=1 to 64). And on the back of the rule was a temperature conversion chart and a detailed Periodic Table of the Elements. Now all those things are available on any “smart” cell phone. Oh! How things change. In Reading, Massachusetts (1977), only kids further than 2 miles from school were bussed. Now (Manassas, VA) nearly all kids are bussed even though no child lives further than 2 miles from their school. And, Child Protective Services will investigate any parent that allows their 13 year old to run an errand (unsupervised) away from home. Hard to believe! Oh well, I guess some consider that’s progress ???
  14. With the hammock load, mast material & diameter, and partner material and dimensions known -- the remaining and most important variable will be the height above the mast partners to which the hammock lines are attached. A fairly standard exam question for 2nd year civil and mechanical engineering students. Answer (formula) probably easily found in most engineering handbooks.
  15. Had not thought of the washer idea — but I’d like something I didn’t have to think about. Not concerned about mast rotation — a key notch in the step prevents that anyway. And I’ve thought about tying the mast as Dave suggests. But again, that’s just one more thing to remember. With a tube, and the worst happens (boat “turtles”), the mast just slides out — but only so far because the vang and reefing lines are still “stop-knotted” behind their cleats. And even if the sail is stowed and boom still hinged to the mast, the boom will be in a crutch (aft) or held up by the halyard (used as a topping lift) — and pulled down with the sheet. Only with the mast as a bare pole would it be lost altogether. I THINK ! ?? If I were in “blow” and managed to lower the sail, I wouldn’t stow it altogether, but would furl it — then try to row (or motor), and failing that, toss out the anchor (which I consider a safety item like a PFD). Still considering the “tube” fix.
  16. I haven’t sailed Seabiscuit much — in fact, just once, at the 2020 Messabout. However, I’ve been thinking a lot about what might be problems for a solo sailor. Like lowering the sail as the wind starts getting out-of-hand. Seems to me it could be a challenge: just two hands, and (skipper forward), simultaneously handling the halyard, sail (needing encouragement to come down), and zipper (unzipping). I have some ideas on those issues, which I’ll try out in the drive way or in shallow water this spring. But for now I've been concerned about a separate potential problem. As constructed, Seabiscuit’s mast is held upright by a “step” on the keel that is about 2” deep and a 3/4” thick mast “partner” that is 13” above the step. When sailing, the mast assembly is held firmly in its step by the downward pull of gravity AND the cleated halyard. However, when the sail is lowered (as during the reefing process or lowering the sail altogether), the mast is held in its step by gravity alone. Seems to me that when there is no downward pull (other than gravity), then vigorous wave-action or a knock-down could cause the mast-heel to slip out of the step. If that were to happen, and the mast became misaligned (i. e., fell away and/or not perpendicular to its partner) — then damage to mast and/or partner is bound to occur. My concept to eliminate this possibility would be a tube like used on the CS20's mizzenmast. It could be fabricated and installed something like this: Or, even simpler, on could drill & tap a hole thru the partner — into which a 3/8” thumbscrew could be “set” to hold the mast firmly in its partner. Of course, to be effective the skipper or crew would have to remember to tighten the set-screw after stepping the mast. Better not to have to remember anything. Comments, suggestions welcome.
  17. As an observer and Chessie's builder, I am certainly proud of the performance of both crew and boat. For sure, future events will be challenging and exciting. May I offer another observation as part of the post event "critique"? Upon launch, and later views of the sails, I noticed that (with no reefing) the heads of both mains'l and mizzen' were not snug up against the halyard pully at the mast heads. They were about 6" to 8" short of maximum height. The downhauls should be trimmed and cleated after sails are at maximum height. In my humble opinion. That would create more clearance of the foot over the dodger and a slight improvement of performance.
  18. Not too late for most of the job. The first application was just for the bottom panels. Their concave surfaces made smooth application a bit more difficult. Today I’ll do the rest of the interior — seats sides and tops up to the gunwales. . QUESTION: How soon after applying the fairing compound should the clear epoxy be applied? Before the “thin film is set”? Immediately? Thanks for the suggestion.
  19. Thanks guys. I hadn’t thought of using the scraper. I’ll sharpen up the scraper and use it tomorrow and give it another day to cure before using the 80 grit.
  20. Some “fairing” advice, please. I just (2pm today) spread thickened (peanut-butter stiff) fairing compound to smooth out the edges where 3” FG tape was used to strengthen joints at the keel, chines, etc. I did this for the Two Paw 7 several years ago — but don’t remember the timing sequences. QUESTION: With shop temp at 65 degrees when applied and kept above 55 degrees overnight, would 10am next day be too early to sand smooth with 80 grit? Or, should I wait another day or two?
  21. I figure that even with the bailer 6” off the keel line, nearly all water will soon be ejected because seldom is the boat plumb upright. Just a few weight shifts and/or sheet adjustments will slosh around the water [enough] to get the last drop out. And with that 6” offset I need not ever have to remember to close the bailer for either launch or recovery. I noticed the check-valve “flapper” (which had to be removed) when I installed a reversed bailer as a scoop to fill Chessie’s ballast tank. I wondered how effective it was in preventing “back floe” at slow or no speed?
  22. Thank you Aphers. That answers a lot of questions. I'll be installing the mini bailer. Probably off the keel line enough for it to miss the trailer's roller -- just aft of the center thwart.
  23. Spring is almost here and Seabiscuit’s just about finished — and I haven’t decided if I should instal the mini bailer. I think it would be most useful if the skipper had shipped a lot of water over the lee rail while sailing aggressively in a breeze. He could easily extend the bailer and quickly eject the water. The same with water from a downpour. Question #1: With the flotations in the bow and under the long side-seats — and after the boat is “righted” following a capsize by its solo skipper, could the result be that water in the cockpit is high enough so there would be outflow thru an opened bailer down to the same level as the River water? And could the boat (with a solo skipper) then still make sailing headway sufficient to eject the cockpit “dry”? Rowing? No bailing by crew required? Considering the above — I’ll plan on installing the mini bailer. Question #2: Recommendation as to location, ... anyone? Recall that the sheet’s cam-cleat is mounted on the keel about halfway between the center and aft thwarts. Comments and suggestions are welcome.
  24. That's amazing! Good thing that the hatch boards were in place and [I assume] the hatch cover pulled aft and closed. If either the boards not in place or the hatch not pulled closed, then would not the cabin have ingested much more water -- even to the point of you (and crew) not being able to "right"-side-up the boat? Have I got that right? If so, wouldn't it be VERY IMPORTANT to always sail with boards in place and hatch pulled closed -- especially in gusty or strong winds? If you (and crew) couldn't get her upright, wouldn't you need professional salvage help at great expense?
  25. Steve, right after you managed to bring Skeena upright, what was the level of water in the cabin? Also, in the cockpit? I’m wondering if you had to bucket-bail real fast to keep ahead of water coming in thru to top of the busted cb housing top and/oh the cockpit scuppers? Years ago my Crocker carvel planked keeled sailboat was bottomed by a spring low tide (at her slip) and as the tide returned, water solely came in the low scupper into the cockpit and over the companionway sill (the keel keeping the boat tilted and the scupper low) — resulting in the boat fully swamped but floating upright but with the waterline above the self-bailing cockpit. I could plug the scuppers, but water still came in between the topside carvel planks which hadn’t swollen up [yet] to be watertight. Two of us really had to bail FAST to get the waterline low enough to where the planks were swollen tight. Had to rebuild the beautiful 30 yr old Wisconsin air cooled inboard engine. Had a hard time replacing the magneto which the salt water had ruined. It had a feature where (with a pull-cord start) the spark was retarded, but with some rpm the spark automatically advanced — by centrifugal force.
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