MickG

Some time ago (2-3 years) there was a presentation of how to build a mast step helper from PCV tubing to guide the foot of the mast into the deck partners. Now I can't located it.Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mick G

Chick; dO YOU STILL HAVE THE cs17? i WOULD BE VERY INTERESTED. rEGARDS, mICK gRIFFIN MickG16@aol.com

I need a cpontact info on both the Greeb Heron and the boat rmays mentions. MickG16@aol.com

A few weeks ago a member (rmay) indicated that he had a CS 20 for sale. I wish to contact him, but can seem to find a way to do so. I would need a phone # or email address. Thank you, MickkG@aol.com

Is Gren Heron still for sale? MickG16@aol.com

Tom; Are you still looking for a CS 20. I haave one that is two years old and was built by a professional builder. It has only been sailed 10 times. Let me know and I will send you more particulars. Mick Griffin

Joe: Thanks for the photo. That is what I assumed the way it would be rigged, but it is nice to have some confirmation. Thanks again, Mick

Thanks for the reply, but the photo showing the actual snotter set up did not come through. Only a photo of your deck line organizer (nice) and one of you standing by your boat. If possable, plese send photo of actual snotter. Thanks again, Mick

Does anyone have a diaagram showing thne "correct" way to rig the snoptter on a CS 20? if, so,. please post. Thank you, MickG

Ray: great video. Thsi morning at 7 Am it was -8 here in the Buffalo, NY area. I don't believe it was as pretty as your area. Mick G

Where anouts in the GBreat Lakes area are you. Exactly what comes with the "kit" Thanks, MickG16@aol.com

Ken: Unfortunatly, I do not have any photos showing the problem. As it was 12 degrrs yesterday morning and the spot where the boat is stored had aprox 4 feet of snow in the last 3 days, I believe that I will haave to wait for spring and much better weather before obtaining any pictures. Thanks to all who tried to help. Mick

Brent: The "pocket is aprox 2 feet X 2 feet and almost 10 inches deep, I have lowered the attachment point 11 inches after moving it up on down by hand. This helped a small amount, but not much. I have plently of length on the sprit to apply more reaward pressure and it doesnt seem to help. The main sets perfectly,no matter which side the sprit is on. HELP. Thanks, Mick

Brent: I do have a halyard but I don't understand what you mean by "tweaking up and down" Also, please eleberate on the idea of a longer sprit. Thanks, Mick

Thanks to all that replied to my question of full battened sail with an extended roach. I will be needing a new mizzen as the one I have apparently can not be made to set properly. (BIG pocket under sprit close to mast when the sprit is on the leeward side and the course is close hauled) I have lowered the attachment point 11inches from the point indicated on the plans, but very little improvement. Any body got any ideas?? The main sets perpectly. Thanks

Paul: I notice that you have full battened sails with quite an extended roach Do you find that this has given you a noticeable increase in performance?/ Do you see any downside? AND, where did you purchase the sails. Thanks, Mick

Oyster: My e-mail address is MickG16@aol.com Get in touch and we can discuss asking price. Mick

Mu name is Mick Griffin and I haave a cs 20 tha tis going 3 years old and has been sailed aprox 10 times. It was built by Geoff Kerr of 2 Daughters Boat Works in the Burlington VT area. (G0ogle Geoff Kerr 2 daughters Boat Works for his information) It isbuilt using al Sapele Plywood anis glassed completle on the exterior. I am finding the boat is a litttle too big (78 years old). I would like to get a LapWing,or if doesn't work out, sell my boat. I live in the Buffao,NY area. I any one is iierested in either option, pleae co tact me. Mick

Peter: Another question for you. I n otice that the mizzen sheet rides on a block attached to a rope traveler. Is that block free to travel from side to side or is attached in one position on the "traveler"? Also, it likes like your mizzen sheet is led forward along the sprit and then to block on the mast, then down the mast to some type of cleat. How do you like that set up? Mick

Peter: Your boat is the one that I am making referance to. Nice looking boat and thank you for the reply. If Graham does't come up with a prefeered dessign, I may "copy" yours. Thanks again, Mick

In one of the related forum topics, I noticed a CS 20 from Australia or New Zealand with a Core Sound 20 decal ( or maybe painted) on the aft quarter near the transom and aprox 6 inches down from the shear. It looked VERY NICE and I am wondering if Graham has ever considered marketing such a decal.?????????

I am looking for the dates lf the EC.I am particularly interested in the date of the geathering, inspecction that takes place the day prior to the start. Thank you Mick

I was faced with the same decision. I, however, had my boat built and the builder, Geoff Kerr of Two Daughters Boatworks in VT told me that the difference in cost would be only a few hundred dollers. I did go with the 20 and am glad that I did. I like the additional room and stability. I have had as many as eight people aboard and did not feel crowded. I have single handed it with no trouble. In face, that is why I went to a CS 20 rather than use the tow 19ft Lightnings that I do have. A lLightning which is roughly the ame size (19 ft vs 20ft) and just about the same sail area is impossable to single hand sail in winds much over 10 -12 mph. The main sail aarea is in one big sail and it has qu9ite a big heeling lever. There is no reason a 20 footer could not built with a weight less that 600 lbs. I would go with the 20 Mick

When using an Anderson Bailer in a CS 17 or CS 20, one would need two. on on each side of the keel. If only one were used, the water on the other side of the keel would remain in the boat as there is no way for it to cross. We always used two on Lightnings. Mick