warthog5

I don't know what your talking about SM filler? Do you mean System 3's Quik Fair? It's a great product. It beats the heck out of mixing your own epoxy/microballons. NO PINHOLEING! It sets up much faster so you don't have to wait 24hrs before sanding. You can sand it in about 6 to 8hrs. You need a postal digital scale to weigh it out. I use the Grams scale. It's a 2 to 1 product. It can be used under the waterline. It spreads lik butter and doesn't slump. The cheapest place to get it is from Hamiliton Marine in Maine. Here's what the componits look like.

The school of had knocks is the Best teacher. You will never forget it. HeHe

Very Good. Make perfect sense now.

I'm not a sailboat fan, but that sure is NICE! What are the little strips of trim along the side/top of the rear compartments for? Must be for lines chafing or something. I don't know squat about sailboats.

QUOTE: Do you think the same technique could be used with thinned epoxy? You could be opening up a BIG can of worms if the epoxy tries to kick off.

See how those Dog's love their pix taken. HeHe

QUOTE: I'm a sucker for kids and dogs, and the messy boat-shop shots may not make it in a commercial calendar, but they warm the hearts of those of us who have built a boat. Oyster should have plenty of those. HeHe

No the cloth is saturated with unthickened epoxy when it's laid. I like to lay my glass on a sheet of visqueen and saturate it, then squeege it. Then pick it up and lay it. I do this only for glass tape and thin cut pieces of biaxl that I cover fillets with.The Quik Fair will fill any weave left and feather the glass to it's souroundings. People have been feathering their glass forever. The best thing is not to touch the glass. The glass is the strength. That Divenacell Pod was then covered with glass both sides.

To bend the Devinacell. I clamp it to a piece of pipe that I like the radius on. PVC pipe works fine. Then use the heat gun and carefully heating it and not overhaeting it. You can form it by hand. The FGCI's 2 to1 Bonding Putty in a S&G boat is perfect. You will spend a hell'vq lot more time building the boat and a lot less time mixing goop. I always have my glass cut that will go over the fillet, before I mix for the fillets. Lay the fillets and then lay the glass while the fillets are still wet or green. It's more work in one day, but will save you at least another day of sanding. After the glass is laid and green. I like to wipe a coat of System 3's Quik Fair over the glass if needed. Now when you sand, you are sanding the Quik Fair and not the glass. Do it all at once and there's no sanding between. Those that have done the sanding between know how time consuming it can be. This is all based on Very clean laid fillets to begin with. No trash balls and cruddy workmanship. Here are some pix's on another project that I heat formed the Divenacell. This was a little more involved as I built a buck/mold. This is an intrustrement pod for my Mako.

FGCI's part #'s for the 2 to 1 Bonding Putty. These are the #'s for qts. Remember to order 2qts of the Base, Part A 65406084 EPOXY BONDING PUTTY,BASE-QT QT 11.95 65606084 EPOXY BONDING PUTTY,ACT-QT QT 11.95 Once you use this stuff you will quite making your own. It's 3 times faster to mix and it lay's out like a dream. Never slumps.

I have stoped mixing my own epoxy/cabisol/microballons for fillets. I use FGCI's [Fiberglass Coatings Inc.] 2 to 1 Bonding putty. It's a little more expensive but sure does make life easy. It comes in a white paste for part A and a thick honey for part B. I weigh it out on a digital scale in grams. Mix it together like you would Bondo, but mix it a little more. As to the green that you say. I assume that you are referring to the back lockers on the front side. That is Divenacell. 3/8in foam core. It is heat formed to get the nice radius as it wraps around. No square [backyard looking] corner. I belive this is what your talking about?

HeHe adla I like Shinny Black. This boat took 1st Place May 1, 2004 at Pirates Cove Boat Festival [Power under 20] http://www.perdidowoodboat.org/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=36&MMN_position=41:36:37 http://www.troutwagon.com/Nautical/SwampWitch/SwampWitch6.htm

Glad to see you were covered in safety gear. This stuff can hurt you BAD.

I have no idea, as I've never put it in the sun. This product is also talked about in Reuel B. Parker's book " The New Cold-Molded Boatbuilding". He talks about using Thile Clad II. That is not made any more and the replacement is The Tile Clad HS.

OK I give a example. The example will be just off the top of my head and not nessisairly the right demensions for any one boat. Let's say that plans call for a stringer that is 1 1/2in wide and 16ft long. In this case you would butt 2- 3/4in 8ftr's together. Where the butt joint is the center of the next 3/4in X 8ftr will go. Glued and screwed. Then 2- 3/4in X 4ftr's would butt onto each end of that 8ftr. Glued and screwed. Does that make sence?

Scarfed or Sistered.

Joe Do your incapulation as normal sand it, then paint with the SW Tile Clad HS.

That's always a fun part of building a boat. Looking Good.

True Epoxy Paint will "chalk" from the sun. Yes you can get it in diffrent colors. I don't know how many diffrent colors there are.

Been there Done that with West System pigment. It was a waste of time and never did cover well after 5 coats. A much better solition in lockers, bildges and interior of cabin is to use Shurwin Williams Tile Clad HS [High Solids] It is a TRUE epoxy paint. 2 coats with brush or roller and your done. With a cheap brush it still lays out very slick. This stuff is designed to paint the inside of water tanks. So direct contact with water in bildges and such will not get pock marks in paint like other paints will in an enclosed compartment with water in it. This paint is available at your local Shurwin Williams paint dealer. the don't sell in in smaller quanities than gal. A gal of part A is $36.80 a gal of part B is $36.80. It will go a Looooog way. On a side note this is a fantactic paint to paint your shop floor with. the only way it will come up is if you chip the concrete. We used it at work in a mechanic's shop. It was washed once a week with costic steam cleaning soap and then steam cleaned down. After 1 1/2yrs it would start to loose it's gloss. The color gray that they used at work had a 55% light reflective value. My shop has a light gray that has a 72% light reflective value. I like it much better. It brightens the shop more. Here's a pix of the bildge that I just painted in White.

Mustang Your taking stuff to personly. This thread has jump all over the place from to epoxy or not to epoxy. Lapstrake building to cold molding. Let me see if I can clear something up. I've known Oyster for about 4yrs now. he calls me on the phone about 4 times a week. The man knows his stuff. he made a living for 30yrs building and repairing wood & fiberglass boats. I will also tell you this about him, I'm the same way. When people spout off "It should be done like so in so" and they don't have a clue or give BAD imfo. He get's upset as do I.

All the mixing, short work time and consisty of batchs is why I quit using epoxy with cabisol mixed into it. I have been using FGCI's 2 to 1 Epoxy bonding putty. It comes in a paste for part A and a thicker than Honey for part B. I weigh it out on a postal scale set to Grams. It's mixed together like you would Bondo, folding it over onto itself. It's a breeze to work with. No slumping, lays down like butter. http://www.fgci.com/ Part A 65406084 EPOXY BONDING PUTTY,BASE-QT QT 11.95 Part B 65606084 EPOXY BONDING PUTTY,ACT-QT QT 11.95 Don't forget to order 2qts of Part A as it's a 2 to 1 mix.

For forum posting and email sending of pix's 640X480 works the best. It loads much quicker for those that don't have cable or DSL and it will show the whole pix on the screen without moving the pix back and forth to see the whole thing.

What you guy's didn't mention with the glass added is the abrasion resistance went up.

Tony It look's very nice. I'm just wondering why you didn't rabbit the top panel into the frame? That would give the top panel a finished look and have more glue surface area.