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Tim TITAN

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About Tim TITAN

  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA & South Florida

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  1. one more thing I forgot to mention. The graphite is much harder to sand. I don't recommend using graphite for the entire hull, but if you wanted to, I would fair the entire hull in perfect with normal fairing compound(much easier to sand) and then try and coat the hull with a nice even layer of graphite. That should save a lot of time and hastle. With a black hull or any other dark color, any ripples or imperfections in the hull will stand out like a sore thumb, so make sure the hull is perfect. I would consider putting down a layer of plastic over the wet graphite and using a roller or squeegee(spelling?) to get all of the high spots out of the graphite. You might have to perfect that idea, but I think it would save a lot of time/sanding. The plastic should come off easily after the epoxy/graphite is cured.
  2. oh, by the way, yes the graphite is just an epoxy additive powder, similar to cabosil or microballoons, but black of course. It's a little more pricey, but you don't usually have to use as much graphite in the epoxy as you would with other fillers. West System sells good graphite powder and is readily available from most suppliers, but other suppliers might have generic graphite powder for less money if you look around and need more than just a coffee can size. From my experience graphite powder is a little more messy too. The powder doesn't like to come off things, so wear gloves and try not to touch much unless you want black handprints everywhere. :wink:
  3. The graphite leaves a VERY hard durable finish. Jet black, rock solid, and very slippery, which are its main advantages. It's mostly used on centerboards from what I've heard. It does not protect the epoxy from UV though, so it's only good for areas that are not in direct sunlight like the centerboard. It's not really much of an advantage to use anywhere else on the boat. I hear that paints do not stick to it very well at all, which makes sense given the hard slippery surface, but with paint you wouldn't have that slick surface which is one of the main advantages of applying the graphite to begin with. I am leaning more and more towards a black hull on my CS20, and I was going to mix more cabosil into the fairing epoxy on the hull along the keel to add more strength/durability against scrapes(from beaching) going through to the glass. I thought about graphite for this area, but I want the entire hull protected from the sun and paint won't stick to graphite well. I'm doing my centerboard in graphite, but I'm thinking a rudder or centerboard is easily replaced. A hull is not, so why risk it? Not a whole lot of sun hits the keel, but after many years on the trailer I would imagine the sun would have some impact on the epoxy. Also, with the white cabosil along the keel I will be able to easily see any scratches through the black paint and hopefully fix them before they get too deep and the glass or wood gets wet. I've fixed boats that got water damage like that, and its a mess. Good luck and let us know what you decide to do. your boat is looking good.
  4. on my CS20 if I ever decide(or have enough extra money to pick up a 4/5 hp outboard), I am going to build a mount out of stainless or aluminum that attaches to the transom and is easily removable and looks great installed, and leaves a nice clean looking transom when the motor is not onboard. I have several different ideas for it. If I get a chance I will try and draw some up and post them. Basically the mount will just slide/clip in. I don't think a deck cutout on the transom for an outboard looks as nice. Also, with a bracket you can adjust the height easily for whatever outboard you can get your hands on. Maybe even get away with a shorter shaft motor if cost and availability of small outboards in your area is limited. The bracket doesn't have to be built to NASA specs either, since you will probably only need to run a 3 or 4 hp motor on the CS17. I've seen ready-made detachable mounts, but they are expensive and dont look nearly as nice installed and when they are detached they leave large brackets on the transom which look terrible. When I build my motor-mount I will post some pictures, but by that time you will probably already have many hours logged on your cs motor. good luck......Tim
  5. so I guess plywood glassed over would be fine for the rudder blade since its smaller and has less lateral force on it than the centerboard?
  6. sounds like a plan. the plywood for the trusses should be plenty strong and you can always make the plywood a little longer/taller than the metal plates would be to add strength. I personallly don't trust those metal plates. Also, if you are going to nail it all together, use ring shank nails if you can. they hold a lot better. Deck screws work pretty good too for outside work. They are coated and stronger metal for outside use. We've had good luck with them. Well have a good build. the CS20 is a great boat. nice lines.
  7. will the new roof be attached to the house on one side or free standing? Our building codes here are very strict, but if it's going to be attached to the house you could probably get away with just having a flat roof gently sloped to let the rain run off. no trusses. just 2x10 or 2x12 rafters. they are available in 18 and 20 foot lengths. securely attach a 2x12 to the house(bolts, lags, screws, etc..) and use joist hangers for the rafters and hurricane straps on the ends. VERY strong it will save you a heap of time and trouble and will probably be fine for the building inspecter. It will look nice too(clean and simple) and give you more ceiling height and less clutter than trusses will give you. If you wanted to finish off a level ceiling under it then you could throw in some collar ties easily. If you are going to finish the ceiling off on it, then I recommend putting in some recesed can lights to give you plenty of good lighting and keep it clean and nice looking. best to do it now, and if you know how to install them yourself, it won't cost you a whole lot. something this simple doesn't always need an architects wave of the hand. I've seen people draw it up on a napkin and hand that in to get their permits(though I don't recommend it and don't think most places would except a napkin).
  8. ok I'm sold. I'll be using solid wood for that. thanks for the help.
  9. two sheets of 3/8 marine fir ply laminated together and glassed would break you think?
  10. any problems using two sheets of plywood laminated to make a centerboard and then glassing over with a 4 or 6 oz cloth rather than doing the quarter sawn method for a CS20? I think it would be plenty strong and not warp since it will be glassed over, but will it flex too much? any other problems with doing it this way?
  11. you could put Rhinolining or Line-x in there, but the cost would be more than its worth, plus you would have to take the boat down to them. You can get Herculiner, which is supposed to be a similiar product, but for the do-it-yourselfer at home. Its about $100 for the herculiner, but thats enough to do a truck bed. I have seen/used all three products, and I have come to the conlusion, they were designed for truck beds, so leave them there. The first two are costly and inconvenient to apply, and the third is pretty expensive too, and isn't nearly as nice as the others. It's pretty much a heavy duty paint with non-skid in it. The other two are thicker and more of a rubberized coating. For the interior of a locker I don't think any of them would help you much with noise. If you have things that will roll around and make a lot of noise, I would imagine they would be small things, so maybe just throw a towel in there to keep them from moving? I used a 1/8 inch thick rubber membrane last winter to seal up a front porch roof on a house. A section or two of that put in the bottom of the locker would probably help a lot, and would never break down. Pretty durable stuff and could be sealed properly and finished off nicely, or even left loose(just make sure you get the water out from under it if you left it loose). As for me, I hate things rolling around and making noise and getting all cluttered, so I think in my boat I will make accomodations for the things that might roll around. Not sure what system I am going to use yet(havent put a list together of things I am going to have on board all the time), but I do know already that I am installing chart tubes for my charts in the rear compartment to keep them organized. I think I will have a couple of those plasitc water tight food containers for storing important things like my gps/radio and cell phone/keys or whatever I bring along that I can throw in the locker. Now that you have me started, I MAY toy with your idea a bit more, and see what I can come up with for keeping things from moving around in there. I keep adding more and more things though. Pretty soon I just need to cut myself off with the add-ons and get her on the water.
  12. hmm, I would think one problem would be water. If any got in the compartment, the carpet would trap the water and not dry, which after a while could cause damage to ur hull maybe? I've also seen some marine carpet that was wet for a awhile get all mushy and break down. It was a mess. Plus I would think the constant dampness would invite mold. Maybe a rubber pad glued to the bottom of the compartment and sealed around the edges would be better if you really are concerned about noise in there? Rubber shower pan liner might work. I'm sure there are lots of other choices too. good luck with the build.........Tim
  13. have any pics of the strip on the bottom?
  14. anybody ever put a metal(brass or stainless) half oval strip on the bottom of their CS20 keel to protect the boat from wear and tear(beachings, rocks, etc..)??? I think the plans recommend it, but I have to dig them out and see. If yes, how far forward does the strip extend, and what material works best for that, stainless or brass? solid back half oval or hollow back half oval? For it to protect the front of the boat from impacts and abrasion, especially when beaching, I would think it would have to extend all the way to the front of the boat, to maybe within about 18 inches of the bow eye. Is it a waste of time/money? I'm going to be beaching a lot, and I am just thinking it might help my paint from rubbing off the bottom after a while. I'm thinking the strip might not look very good either, so I would rather not do it. Since my hull is going to be white, maybe its best just to ditch the metal strip idea, and fair in a 1 or 2 inch wide layer of cabosil/epoxy all along the bottom of the keel and part way up the stem for extra stength, and also if the paint gets scratched there or worn off, it will just show the white cabosil below it and it wont look so bad until I get a chance to touch it up with paint??? good idea?? any thoughts?
  15. what does the anderson bailer look like and how does it work?
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